90nSSMD

This thread has just gotten beyond the scope of my expertise lol.

Figured id chime in and at least say that my computer is an A9L.

JBeachstang11

Ha! Me too and it's my thread..

So I cleaned the MAF with elec cleaner, swapped the ect sensor (another used one so I'll get new soon). Also near my ECT probe there are two harnesses that are identical, not exactly sure which goes on the ect sensor at the moment. Fired the car up and the BE2012 still reads 20 for ECT and the dash gauge was intot he 100's. Something is still amiss there.

New pcv, new IAC, swapped out the open element K&N for the factory box with new filter(read that could be an issue and already had the factory stuff) still won't idle and smell rich.

Tried to check the MAF voltage but it seemed my wires were a different color than others so I will have to nail that down.

I "think" this is going to come down to either the ECT causing issues of the MAF and injectors being off in the ECU.

I am using the F5DE-b5a 24# injectors and ProM 75mm mass air meter.

Injector
High slope 24.1204
Low Slope 25.9555

Break point
15.9998 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398
0.0000 3.0398

Offset vs Batt Voltage
15.9375 0.5625
15.0000 0.5625
14.0000 0.6250
13.0000 0.7500
12.0000 0.8750
11.0000 1.0000
10.0000 1.2188
8.0000 1.8438
6.0000 3.1875
0.0000 4.8125
0.0000 4.8125
0.0000 4.8125

MAF scalars
SAMRAT Air - MAF Filter Sample Rate 2 Background Counts
VMAFR2 Air - MAF KOER Max. Voltage 1.8750 Volts
VMAFR1 Air - MAF KOER Min Voltage 0.6250 Volts
VMARPM Air - MAF Max Speed for Voltage Test 4500 RPM
VMAMAX Air - MAF Maximum Voltage 4.9000 Volts
IDLMAF Air - MAF Min For TP Calculation 1 lb/min
MINAM Air - MAF Minimum Air Mass Clip 0.5000 lb/min
VMAMIN Air - MAF Minimum Voltage 0.3750 Volts
MFMHYS Air - Managed Failure Mode HYS 3 counts

And here is my data I used for my MAF curve for MAF transfer to match my injectors but maybe this is incorrect.
15.9998 1233.738
5.0000 1233.738
4.8000 1105.739
4.6001 986.927
4.3999 877.621
4.2000 777.185
4.1001 729.978
3.8999 642.216
3.7000 561.741
3.5000 488.553
3.3000 422.652
3.2000 392.236
3.0000 336.157
2.8000 285.781
2.6001 240.791
2.5000 220.197
2.3000 183.128
2.1001 150.811
1.8999 122.613
1.7000 98.217
1.6001 87.445
1.3999 68.752
1.2000 52.594
1.0000 39.604
0.8000 28.832
0.7000 24.396
0.5000 16.792
0.3000 11.089
0.1001 6.653
0.0000 5.069

Really a bit stumped as I have most of the basics out of the way it seems besides getting the new ECT sensor, checking fuel pressure and just swap in new fuel filter for good measure. Should prob check fuel sock as well since I have a door to get access to the fuel pump/harness/tank area.

90nSSMD

I know you have gone through a lot of this checklist (maybe more?), but I suppose it doesn't hurt to link it in hopes that you might have missed something, or it might help spark a new idea.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...cklist.698148/

I hope you can resolve this issue soon!

JBeachstang11

No it doesn't hurt, as this is a great checklist. I'm actually working my through that as I have time. So thank you for thinking of it!

ECT and ACT sensors are good and functioning so they aren't the issue. Have a new fuel filter to go in because I have no idea when this was ever done. Need to check tank and sock as well.

Next up is to check and clean the 10pin connectors.

Revs great and even drives really strong other than that sputter. I did notice #3 wire got a little burned on a header pipe so I have fastened it out of the way and it seems just the insulation was a little melted.

JBeachstang11

Seriously.. Cleaned the 10 pin, even took out the recall/extension, modded the pins so they make contact.. still nothing

Checked the tank and fuel pump/sock all looks good. Couple things in bottom of tank ill get out soon but not causing this issue.

Last thing I can think of is a trashed MAF (hard to fully test if engine doesn't run.. I know I can check the basics again) and I'll pull the MAF harness and give it a go. Also the EGR which I am pretty sure has a block plate but still has the vac going to it. So I'll pull that and see what's up. Maybe even disconnect the harness to it and see as well.

JBeachstang11

Ok so I came across something while checking through some diagrams, and something I completely missed. Also some special person spray painted my entire engine bay black including every wire and vacuum hose before I got this car so It's hard to see things.

This vacuum junction is missing a few hoses and it's hard to see the colors but it's behind the passenger strut area near the ac vac.

Also my vapor canister and egr are bypassed so if anyone can tell me which to plug up or all that'd be great. I'll try to look it up though.

JBeachstang11

Ok, a bit of a break through..

Removed EGR and checked plate seal, all good. Also plugged all loose vacuum lines with caps as well as the bung on the manifold I was using for egr, which I didn't need anyhow.

Fired up and it ran exactly the same, like crap..

Right before I stopped I unplugged the MAF sensor harness and it fired up and roughly idled but somewhat smoothed out, but IT WAS IDLEING!! somewhere around 600-700 rpm.. Sprayed carb cleaner around all the gaskets and seals on intake/tb and nothing changed so that all seems good.

Looks like it is narrowed down to MAF sensor.

90nSSMD

Awesome job narrowing that down!

Do you think the MAF wasn't correctly calibrated for the 24lb injectors? It's a possibility, but then again, so is a bad MAF (which I think wouldn't likely be it, but always a possibility).

Food for thought.

JBeachstang11

Could be, I really need to verify my numbers for my injectors to calibrate everything.

New meter in and same shizz... Will run disconnected but once you hook it back up it just surges and stalls.

All I can think of using the list is maybe a wiring issue at the MAF or btw MAF and ECU.

Rechecked timing while I could and it was 12 degrees.

90nSSMD

Here's a website with tons of diagrams/info:

http://veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/

Might come in handy if you're looking to trace down the harness for a problem.