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Old 07-01-2014, 11:46 AM   #21
robotnix
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never mind I found the fuel pump block off plate.
they just don't provide the bolts.
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:52 AM   #22
Maxwelhse
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I'm a little confused.... Why are you replacing the cover with a different part?
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:38 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse View Post
I'm a little confused.... Why are you replacing the cover with a different part?
I'm not sure how different it is exactly. on the cover it says to replace OE part.
the only differences are what I have highlighted in red in one of my posts but they interfere in no way but I get your point.

I'm going to my local parts shop today and I'll ask around. I could reuse the old part but it's a 22 years old part and I just wanted to replace it since I have unbolted everything already.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:23 PM   #24
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all right guys,

so I was able to remove the harmonic balancer it was very easy actually I turned the removal tool bolt by hand and it came right off.

anyways I opened the timing chain cover and I have 2..3 questions,

on this image as you can see the top gear is in bad shape. again I'm no mechanic but I just compare it to the new ford racing timing chain kit I have they are in bad shape.

so first question, my plan is to put back the crank bolt and turn the crank until the 'blue bar' on the picture is on top. I'm hopping that the 2 dots will then be aligned. if they are not aligned then I'll install them the same way (not aligned). (I have the ford racing kit from American muscle).
so I apply a good amount of grease to the parts before installing.
does this make any sense?
I admit I don't understand timing etc... yet but I don't think I do need to understand it like a mechanic to change the chain I will get there eventually I guess.
Click the image to open in full size.

this kit I got comes with many gaskets
clearly 1 is timing chain cover gasket, there is also a small 2 pieces gaskets for the oil pan,
3 or 4 water pump? but why is there 2 of them
what's 2??
Click the image to open in full size.

sorry for my stupid questions it's getting late here.

oh last question,
I use this product called permatex form-a gasket sealant
so I apply some behind the gasket and some on the gasket then wait about 1h before using bolts
makes sense?


thank you as always!!

Last edited by robotnix; 07-02-2014 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:51 AM   #25
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I'd rather use anti-seize on the crank sprocket as it makes it easy to remove just in case you ever need to do that.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:53 AM   #26
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Timing is key to making the engine run right, poorly or not at all so do spend time doing your home work on it.
To avoid any issues get the gear marks lined up when the #1 piston at TDC before you remove the gears. Don't worry how many times you have to rotate the crank, remove the plugs to allow the engine not to have to fight compression. When putting on the new setup you must keep the marks lined up (unless you purposely want to advance or retard the timing) which is not so easy to do with a new tight chain.
FormAGasket is used instead of a regular gasket. Its a step up from regular silicone I suppose but have never used it. When using a gasket some guys like to spread a thin layer of silicone on it. Some gaskets say do not use silicone just a gasket glue to hold it in place so you should check the manufactures recommendation. I expect the instruction do say to add a bead of sealer where the timing cover and oil pan meet since that is the only way to seat the two.
The multiple gaskets are there so they can offer one part number for many more applications. If the box shows all the application the kit works on you find various models over a number of years listed. You obviously will only use the gaskets that match your set up.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:41 AM   #27
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hi, sorry but why do I care about #1 TDC when I already have the crank and cam gears on and aligned or timed? all I have to do is align the dots and change the gears and chain no?

sorry trying to understand as to why I care about where #1 TDC is in this situation... in my head I would care if I didn't have the gears on but I do have them.

tinman: yes I do use anti-seize when I put my bolts back.

thank you
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robotnix View Post
hi, sorry but why do I care about #1 TDC when I already have the crank and cam gears on and aligned or timed? all I have to do is align the dots and change the gears and chain no?

sorry trying to understand as to why I care about where #1 TDC is in this situation... in my head I would care if I didn't have the gears on but I do have them.

tinman: yes I do use anti-seize when I put my bolts back.

thank you
why do you care?? because are you on the intake or compression stroke on #1?? line up the dots before removal and don't spin the motor over once all is removed.......before ever disassembling stuff you always set motor at tdc so there are no questions.
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:31 AM   #29
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LOL Something tells me you disassembled everything before you found TopDeadCenter? Now you'll get to learn how a piston stop works. Just for future reference. Yo find TDC on a motor that was running correctly by taking of the distributor cap and bumping the ignition until the rotor is point at the#1 cylinder Pretty easy to do while the motor is running. It's more of a pain to find it now that the heads are off and you've rotated the crank. This where you'll need the piston stop. Luckily they are cheap and there is plenty of YouTube videos on how they work.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:24 AM   #30
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The marks need to be lined up when at TDC, any other position and you have not verified that the timing is right. Chain stretch for example causes the marks to loose alignment, the chain can even jump a tooth or more when there is enough slack and certainly there is no guarantee last install was not done wrong even if it has never been apart. If they won't line up at TDC then you have to correct that just be 100% sure you have it at #1 and TDC on the compression stroke.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:24 AM
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