Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > 5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang > 5.0L General Discussion
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


5.0L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.

Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


here is how I fixed my idle problem

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-17-2014, 06:17 PM   #1
robotnix
1st Gear Member
 
robotnix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Vehicle: 92,ford,mustang gt
Location: Quebec
Posts: 72
Default here is how I fixed my idle problem

hi,

so my idle problem happened only after driving the car hot and at idle so stopped in my own parking or stop or red light.

the rpm would go to 1000, down to 650, up to 800 down to 500, up to 500 down to 300 and die. I was able to restart the car right away. if I would press the pedal and rev it to 3000-4000 rpm the issue would go away but we all agree that we look like idiots revving at a red light but the problem would come back at next light.

now I got to fix it but it took me I would say about 2 months of trial. I did change quiet few things but only because I wanted to it's all basic maintenance on a 22 years old 5.0 so I was ok with it since I plan on keeping the car for years.

I did all these things but none helped,
- change cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires.
- clean MAF sensor,
- clean IAC
- change EGR
- change PCV valve
- change alternator for a newer 130AMP G3
- temperature sensor for the computer and while at it temperature sensor for the dash

I did these 3 same day so the problem is I can't say for sure which one helped but at least it will give you an idea and as I said it's basic maintenance and they're cheap.
- I had a O2 sensor light on for driver side o2, I changed both sides I was running too rich
- I changed my TPS for the BBK version.
- I changed the IAC

since then so far in 2 days not once I've had bad idle being parked, stop or red light and my idle is steady at 650 RPM. I never had to play with the TB screw.

if I had to take a wild guess I would say the IAC fixed it. I didn't change it at the beginning because 2 months earlier it's the first thing I cleaned with carb cleaner but I guess it didn't help.

again this is what I did and it helped me. it's not a fix for your car, I'm just posting this to explain what I did to fix my own car.

thanks.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!

Last edited by robotnix; 07-17-2014 at 06:42 PM.
robotnix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2014, 11:06 PM   #2
mjr46
Pro-comp heads rule!
 
mjr46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Vehicle: 85 mustang
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,249
Default

lol...replaced every sensor nearly.....slap parts until it solves prob and if not...slap even more
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by dudegirl View Post
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
mjr46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2014, 05:08 AM   #3
robotnix
1st Gear Member
 
robotnix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Vehicle: 92,ford,mustang gt
Location: Quebec
Posts: 72
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjr46 View Post
lol...replaced every sensor nearly.....slap parts until it solves prob and if not...slap even more
You can put it that way but as i explained i was going to do all this anyway simply as preventive changes on a 22 years old car and most things are cheap so i see no reason not too.

But again it could have been a combination of these things that fixed it for me... It s just out there take it or leave it.

if i put all the bills together except the alternator i m at about 350$ or so for new parts. Paying a mechanic to try to diagnose would have cost me more for less.

Thanks..

Last edited by robotnix; 07-18-2014 at 05:21 AM.
robotnix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2014, 01:43 PM   #4
88 orangepeel notch
5th Gear Member
 
88 orangepeel notch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Vehicle: 1988 notchback
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,342
Default

Thanks for the update, glad to hear she's idling like it should. Congrats
__________________
306 with all bolt ons, letter cam, ported E7's, T5 swap, full exhaust, 3:55's, 2" drop, and the worst paint you'll ever see or feel.
Dyno'd 300/316, 2745lbs-track scale
Best ET………12.4@108, 1.66 60ft on 8" ET Drags.
24 mpg (combined)
88 orangepeel notch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2014, 06:23 PM   #5
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1995 mustang GT
Location: Jersey
Posts: 10,737
ItsUrFuneral
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robotnix View Post
You can put it that way but as i explained i was going to do all this anyway simply as preventive changes on a 22 years old car and most things are cheap so i see no reason not too.

But again it could have been a combination of these things that fixed it for me... It s just out there take it or leave it.

if i put all the bills together except the alternator i m at about 350$ or so for new parts. Paying a mechanic to try to diagnose would have cost me more for less.

Thanks..
I had a shop (ALL OUT AUTOMOTIVE)These bums tried and charge me a grand for an electrical gremlin. All they managed to do after having my car for 3 months is make the problem worse. If you fixed the problem on your own consider it money well spent. And you got to learn your car in the process. Trust me a speed shop would use the same throw parts at it approach. And charge you 120 bucks an hour for labor while they are scratching their heads and asses trying to figure out the problem.!
__________________
ENGINE363 forged dart engine. 300 shot!TRANNY C4 with trans brake, 3800 stall, 9in. raceconverter, hurst shifter REAR Moser 35 spline kit with spool, FRPP 3.73 gearsSUSPENION UPR Upper & lower control arms, Strange 10 way dampers, coilovers up front, BBK sub frame connectors, UPR Tube K-member & A-arms NEW Mustang TIMES COMING.
2011 Camaro SS 12.34@110.92

Last edited by bluebeastsrt; 07-18-2014 at 06:27 PM.
bluebeastsrt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2014, 10:05 PM   #6
mjr46
Pro-comp heads rule!
 
mjr46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Vehicle: 85 mustang
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,249
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebeastsrt View Post
I had a shop (ALL OUT AUTOMOTIVE)These bums tried and charge me a grand for an electrical gremlin. All they managed to do after having my car for 3 months is make the problem worse. If you fixed the problem on your own consider it money well spent. And you got to learn your car in the process. Trust me a speed shop would use the same throw parts at it approach. And charge you 120 bucks an hour for labor while they are scratching their heads and asses trying to figure out the problem.!
sounds like you need to find a technician, and not a parts slapper....you know there are plenty of techs out there who can and do troubleshoot properly, just happens most don't work at dealers and hole in the wall shops..............what I find often is the criteria people use when searching for a shop is they call around and ask what the labor rate is and when they find the cheapest rate.....guess what?? bingo...that's who they go with. Cheap labor rates often go hand in hand with a shops expertise and investment they have in equipment that allows for proper diagnosis.........most don't even have lab scopes or techs that even know how to use them. I have a few jaw dropping case scenarios in the last month that I encountered. Glad the OP got his problem fixed........more power to him
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by dudegirl View Post
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
mjr46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2014, 12:49 AM   #7
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1995 mustang GT
Location: Jersey
Posts: 10,737
ItsUrFuneral
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjr46 View Post
sounds like you need to find a technician, and not a parts slapper....you know there are plenty of techs out there who can and do troubleshoot properly, just happens most don't work at dealers and hole in the wall shops..............what I find often is the criteria people use when searching for a shop is they call around and ask what the labor rate is and when they find the cheapest rate.....guess what?? bingo...that's who they go with. Cheap labor rates often go hand in hand with a shops expertise and investment they have in equipment that allows for proper diagnosis.........most don't even have lab scopes or techs that even know how to use them. I have a few jaw dropping case scenarios in the last month that I encountered. Glad the OP got his problem fixed........more power to him
I make about 150K a year. So the cheapest rate thing doesn't apply to me. I took my car to this speed shop thinking their shop car is an 8.5 second car and that you'd think they know what they are doing? Makes sense right? I'm building a race car and they own & supposedly build race cars. Not the case. Finding a good mechanic/Tech is the same as finding a good cop or fast food worker. They are out there for sure and I would never lump all techs into the same group but if you do happen to find one you can trust. Keep him! Because your just as likely to find some Billy Bob HACK as you are a competent mechanic. Your just rolling the dice when you take your car to a shop for the first time. I've also found your better off just fixing it yourself about 75% of the time. You should know your limits when trying to fix something yourself though. My limits are usually electrical related. Don't take offense to any of my above statements. I'm sure you do fine work. But its a crap shoot finding a good one.
__________________
ENGINE363 forged dart engine. 300 shot!TRANNY C4 with trans brake, 3800 stall, 9in. raceconverter, hurst shifter REAR Moser 35 spline kit with spool, FRPP 3.73 gearsSUSPENION UPR Upper & lower control arms, Strange 10 way dampers, coilovers up front, BBK sub frame connectors, UPR Tube K-member & A-arms NEW Mustang TIMES COMING.
2011 Camaro SS 12.34@110.92

Last edited by bluebeastsrt; 07-19-2014 at 02:25 AM. Reason: grammar.
bluebeastsrt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 03:35 AM   #8
Maxwelhse
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,102
Default

Robotnix, the next time I see a thread about what $10k engine package you want to buy someday, I'm literally going to tell you to buy some training instead. That's not meant to be hurtful or insulting, but no one can teach you if you flat don't know and don't ask for help. Or... You can toss money at it until it goes away.

I LOVE the fact that new and younger guys are coming into push rod 5.0's, but cool your jets. As MJR said, you bought most of the motor to fix that...

I've made some good income in my life too, but I try not to be stupid about what I do with it despite what some pundits may think of my choices.

Chill out and learn to work on your car. Your life will be MUCH better. You could have bought a proper data logging scan tool for less than those parts if you wanted to. I, or hopefully some other people here, could interpret those logs and help you to change *1* part.

Point made? No hard feelings?
__________________
'91 GT 5 Speed

Last edited by Maxwelhse; 07-21-2014 at 03:44 AM.
Maxwelhse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 06:51 AM   #9
robotnix
1st Gear Member
 
robotnix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Vehicle: 92,ford,mustang gt
Location: Quebec
Posts: 72
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse View Post
Robotnix, the next time I see a thread about what $10k engine package you want to buy someday, I'm literally going to tell you to buy some training instead. That's not meant to be hurtful or insulting, but no one can teach you if you flat don't know and don't ask for help. Or... You can toss money at it until it goes away.

I LOVE the fact that new and younger guys are coming into push rod 5.0's, but cool your jets. As MJR said, you bought most of the motor to fix that...

I've made some good income in my life too, but I try not to be stupid about what I do with it despite what some pundits may think of my choices.

Chill out and learn to work on your car. Your life will be MUCH better. You could have bought a proper data logging scan tool for less than those parts if you wanted to. I, or hopefully some other people here, could interpret those logs and help you to change *1* part.

Point made? No hard feelings?
I will only say that I'm glad I was able to fix my problem myself with just 350$ and few new parts, I could have been robbed by some mechanic and still end up having the same issue.

most of things I did on my car are things the community suggested and I did it because they made sense and I accepted.

I always say in my posts that I'm no mechanic, yet with the help from bluebeastsrt and some others here I was able to change from radiator up to my own timing chain and even install an electric fan which allowed me to learn about my car so thanks for the support. youtube and forums is all the training I need I'm not going to change job to get a mechanic training but thanks for the suggestion.

no friend no hard feelings.

Last edited by robotnix; 07-21-2014 at 07:43 AM.
robotnix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 02:05 PM   #10
AlienVomit
 
AlienVomit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Vehicle: 1988, Ford, Mustang LX
Location: CA
Posts: 3
Thumbs up idle problem

I'm having almost the same exact problem and on my 26 year old, so I will find this article very useful. I will try the bottom three things first, but like you I see no reason not replacing everything you mention for the sake of it being such and old car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by robotnix View Post
hi,

so my idle problem happened only after driving the car hot and at idle so stopped in my own parking or stop or red light.

the rpm would go to 1000, down to 650, up to 800 down to 500, up to 500 down to 300 and die. I was able to restart the car right away. if I would press the pedal and rev it to 3000-4000 rpm the issue would go away but we all agree that we look like idiots revving at a red light but the problem would come back at next light.

now I got to fix it but it took me I would say about 2 months of trial. I did change quiet few things but only because I wanted to it's all basic maintenance on a 22 years old 5.0 so I was ok with it since I plan on keeping the car for years.

I did all these things but none helped,
- change cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires.
- clean MAF sensor,
- clean IAC
- change EGR
- change PCV valve
- change alternator for a newer 130AMP G3
- temperature sensor for the computer and while at it temperature sensor for the dash

I did these 3 same day so the problem is I can't say for sure which one helped but at least it will give you an idea and as I said it's basic maintenance and they're cheap.
- I had a O2 sensor light on for driver side o2, I changed both sides I was running too rich
- I changed my TPS for the BBK version.
- I changed the IAC

since then so far in 2 days not once I've had bad idle being parked, stop or red light and my idle is steady at 650 RPM. I never had to play with the TB screw.

if I had to take a wild guess I would say the IAC fixed it. I didn't change it at the beginning because 2 months earlier it's the first thing I cleaned with carb cleaner but I guess it didn't help.

again this is what I did and it helped me. it's not a fix for your car, I'm just posting this to explain what I did to fix my own car.

thanks.
AlienVomit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 03:39 PM   #11
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1995 mustang GT
Location: Jersey
Posts: 10,737
ItsUrFuneral
Default

You guys are ragging on this kid for trying to fix it on his own????? I'll bet that maybe one person commenting in this thread works as an automotive tech. The rest of us had to learn the hard way and made a ton of costly mistakes along the way!!! And even the Tech makes mistakes still to this day! You guys seam to forget there is a learning curve when it comes to anything. And with experience comes the right tools. Code reader, fuel pressure tester, inline spark testers, etc. I'll commend anyone for having the ***** to get their hands dirty instead of taking the easy way out and handing the keys over to someone else. Nobody just flipped up a hood on a car and magically gets it! I've made a ton of mistakes in the last 30 years but I've learned from every one of them. Did you ever think that about 75% of the legit advice that is given on this forum is not completely understood from someone that has little wrench time? And god help the inexperienced when they have to start weeding out the bad advice just to get to the legit stuff they read on the interwebs.
__________________
ENGINE363 forged dart engine. 300 shot!TRANNY C4 with trans brake, 3800 stall, 9in. raceconverter, hurst shifter REAR Moser 35 spline kit with spool, FRPP 3.73 gearsSUSPENION UPR Upper & lower control arms, Strange 10 way dampers, coilovers up front, BBK sub frame connectors, UPR Tube K-member & A-arms NEW Mustang TIMES COMING.
2011 Camaro SS 12.34@110.92

Last edited by bluebeastsrt; 07-21-2014 at 04:20 PM.
bluebeastsrt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2014, 06:45 AM   #12
robotnix
1st Gear Member
 
robotnix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Vehicle: 92,ford,mustang gt
Location: Quebec
Posts: 72
Default

just want to say that my issue is fixed for sure now it's been days and my idle issue is no longer happening

it's so much more fun to drive my car knowing I won't have to rev like a moron at a red light to keep the engine on.

good luck to any of you having similar issue and hope this post can help.
robotnix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2014, 04:00 PM   #13
88 orangepeel notch
5th Gear Member
 
88 orangepeel notch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Vehicle: 1988 notchback
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,342
Default

Congrats again robo, maybe you did it the long way, but you did it and you know your car better because of it. Plus it helps the next guy with similar problems because.............wait, we don't know what fixed your idle. You suck lol.

Blue...... Well said.
__________________
306 with all bolt ons, letter cam, ported E7's, T5 swap, full exhaust, 3:55's, 2" drop, and the worst paint you'll ever see or feel.
Dyno'd 300/316, 2745lbs-track scale
Best ET………12.4@108, 1.66 60ft on 8" ET Drags.
24 mpg (combined)
88 orangepeel notch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #14
robotnix
1st Gear Member
 
robotnix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Vehicle: 92,ford,mustang gt
Location: Quebec
Posts: 72
Default

Lol thanks
well you know from my initial post that what helped me in my case is most likely the iac change and not cleanup
This is the list of what i did. For others maybe something else will work from the list but thats what i did

I admit that changing iac day one could have resolvemy issue quickly but i dont regret what i ve done since now i have working parts where things can break so in theory im good for many years to come.

Not the best approach and not the mechanics approach perhaps but then again i m no mechanic nor want to become one.
robotnix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2014, 06:24 PM   #15
JBeachstang11
1st Gear Member
 
JBeachstang11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Vehicle: 1990 Ford Mustang GT
Location: Florida
Posts: 83
Default

Good stuff man. Glad to hear you have it sorted now!

I am in a similar boat with mine not wanting to idle at all and surges to beat hell if I hold to gas just enough to keep it running but from 500-1500 almost.

My car was abused badly before I got it. I've using the codes to track things down mostly. Some of the sensors I have tried to test with pulling codes and probing using a voltmeter have broken as I've removed the harnesses, ECU ECT sensor today for example, plus I just built the fresh engine so removing any unknowns helps when everything is different now.

Basically done except for this..

So good for you man, wish I had a nice idling car at the moment!
__________________
1990 GT 5spd

311ci Edel 6025 2.02 heads, Comp XE274HR, Comp 1.6 RR, Tubular GT40 upper, ported lower, 24# Inj, 70mm BBK TB/EGR, ProM75mm MAF A9L reman ECM, BBK Shortys, Hpipe etc..,

Eibach sport springs and KYB shocks/struts..
JBeachstang11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2014, 10:43 AM   #16
AlienVomit
 
AlienVomit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Vehicle: 1988, Ford, Mustang LX
Location: CA
Posts: 3
Smile idle problem fixed!

I got a BWD after market IAC valve from O'Reily's Auto and my idle problem has too disappeared. The one i had on there had an 180 degree plug for the wire harness too, really bad design considering the harness was mashed against the Air Duct going into the throttle body and was also pinching the IAC's wire harness. The BWD makes their plug 90 degrees, as it should be.

Thanks for posting robotnix
AlienVomit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2014, 10:43 AM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:51 AM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup