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So first question: The valve covers do not have an opening for a PCV valve, im guessing the PO left the 91 EFI valve covers on the engine when swapping, there is a hose with what seems to be an inline PCV connected to the nipple on the oil filler neck going into the air filter.
Im assuming I need to make a hole in the opposite side valve cover and add in a pcv valve that connects to the vaccum port at the base of carb?
The PCV might be ok, as I have seen it done that way before, I would be more worried that you have no vacuum to the distributor advance.
Originally Posted by 67LimeCoupe
Ordered a pair of valve covers that have holes and baffles on both sides, one will get a 90* pcv valve straight from the valve cover to the back of the carb, the other will just be a breather/oil filler cap.
Now to solve the mystery of the dimming lights, not sure what this chain things is supposed to do
also, what are the two wires coming off he brake pedal?
Wow I think the chain is some type of Ghetto fab parking brake. LOL
The wires by the brake pedal no clue, but they do look like they might be aftermarket add on.
Good luck keep chipping away at it.
The PCV might be ok, as I have seen it done that way before, I would be more worried that you have no vacuum to the distributor advance.Wow I think the chain is some type of Ghetto fab parking brake. LOL
The wires by the brake pedal no clue, but they do look like they might be aftermarket add on.
Good luck keep chipping away at it.
Hmm the chain is attached to the clutch tho
Regarding the vacuum advance, PO has the carb rigged to stay open, haven't gotten a chance to check what model Holley it is to see what I can do to fix it, he has a piece of wire on the left side of the carb holding two brackets together, pics will be up later. Vacuum advance doesn't apply when the carb is fully open at WOT for manual transmissions right? Would keeping it open like this have the same effect as it being at WOT?
True the vacuum advance does not matter at WOT, but you can't drive with the car at WOT at all times, so the advance helps at partial throttle, manual or auto doesn't matter.
Yes you will need more pics to show how it is set up.
Chain on the clutch, no clue, the thing clearly runs and drives, so I wouldn't over think some things, check the timing, and I would try hooking up the vac advance, as it should make it run better around town, Ford put it there for a reason.
True the vacuum advance does not matter at WOT, but you can't drive with the car at WOT at all times, so the advance helps at partial throttle, manual or auto doesn't matter.
Yes you will need more pics to show how it is set up.
Chain on the clutch, no clue, the thing clearly runs and drives, so I wouldn't over think some things, check the timing, and I would try hooking up the vac advance, as it should make it run better around town, Ford put it there for a reason.
Timing definitely needs to be fine tuned, none of the stores around here loan them and I was hoping not to spend $$ on a tool I might use a couple times.
I hooked up the vacuum advance, we'll see how she runs now.
Carb is a Holley 1850S, basic 600 cfm manual choke model...that's why the fast idle is jury rigged open, he was too lazy to route a cable into the cabin.
The more I dig into this car the more corners I see cut, instead of properly switching the fuel setup using the existing hardlines he ran fuel hose from the gas tank and connected them into the hardlines halfway down the driveshaft tunnel smh, I made sure they are clear of any exhaust and the driveshaft, it will have to do for now.
Clunking noise? All 4 driveshaft to rear end flange Allen bolts were not even finger tight, I applied locktite and torqued them down, I have some play in the driveshaft before the wheels start moving, how much is acceptable?
For the seats, my foam was shot in my seats, and I didn't want to spend that much money on replacement foam then get the seats reupholstered. So I found a set of front seats from a 95 Mustang that almost matched my interior color perfectly. Swapped seat tracks and bolted them in. Total cost $75 and very comfortable.
For your speedo, pull the cable out of the tranny, there's a small plastic gear in there that is known for stripping teeth and thus loosing your speedo. Cheap fix if that's the problem.
For the seats, my foam was shot in my seats, and I didn't want to spend that much money on replacement foam then get the seats reupholstered. So I found a set of front seats from a 95 Mustang that almost matched my interior color perfectly. Swapped seat tracks and bolted them in. Total cost $75 and very comfortable.
For your speedo, pull the cable out of the tranny, there's a small plastic gear in there that is known for stripping teeth and thus loosing your speedo. Cheap fix if that's the problem.
I was looking into throwing SN95 seats in it, junkyards around here must believe their 20 year old seats are made of gold...Leather ones started at 170 a piece.
True the vacuum advance does not matter at WOT, but you can't drive with the car at WOT at all times, so the advance helps at partial throttle, manual or auto doesn't matter.
Yes you will need more pics to show how it is set up.
Chain on the clutch, no clue, the thing clearly runs and drives, so I wouldn't over think some things, check the timing, and I would try hooking up the vac advance, as it should make it run better around town, Ford put it there for a reason.
I connected the vac advance and the car was undrivable, bucking above 20 mph, took it off and it ran fine, going to time it then try reconnecting it to see if that will do it.
Still having a ground issue, from what I know about SBF is that there should be one ground (battery cable) going to the side of the engine block, and another going from the back of the block to the firewall/chassis, I don't see a block to chassis ground on this car...could that be the culprit? Each headlights individual ground is connected nice and tight to a clean/sanded part of the radiator support.
Goals for this car: reliable daily driver for ~1 year until I buy a house, will get a budget restoration at that point. Paint, POR on underbody, rebuild engine/transmission, street suspension, STR 607 17x9 wheels with 245 or 275 out back, 225 in front, 5 lug disc conversion. Interior will get torn out and all trim will be blacked out, will need a new dash as this one is cracked and has a hole in the top, dash will also be black, new black carpet, tan leather sn95 front and rear seats, custom center console that doesn't suck and has cup holders, new gauges and steering wheel. Oh and every foxbody owners dream: stop the rattling
Another issue today, I timed it and set it at 10*, however when I plug in the vac advance I still get what I think might be a misfire when accelerating slowly or cruising at a constant rpm, it kinda bucks the car. There is a distributor with some kind of electronic ignition, dizzy connects to a silver box in engine compartment. Ordered a HEI one wire distributor meant for the newer roller can/lifters, I run one on my 67 and it's the best thing ever, no external coil to worry about and less wiring.
08-31-2015, 02:52 PM
