Break in period
03-10-2015, 11:54 AM
#21
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Illinois
Posts: 52
My 2 cents worth is do whatever the factory recommends.
Having said that, a lot of break-in (and oil change) recommendations date from when I first started driving almost 50 yrs. ago. In that period of time, oil, materials and manufacturing processes all have taken a huge leap forward, so I don't think break-in is as iimportant as seem folks make it to be. As an example, Corvette engines have no break-in period. Supposedly they are ready to go from the plant and either the rings seat immediately or they don't all at. GM does recommend a 1000 mile break-in, but this is to establish a proper wear pattern on the gearing (or so said the common knowledge back in '07 when I bought my Vette). This, I believe, was from a Corvette engineer on Corvette Forums.
I don't think any manufacturer recommends an early oil change anymore, but that certainly doesn't hurt anything and may still be a good practice.
Having said that, a lot of break-in (and oil change) recommendations date from when I first started driving almost 50 yrs. ago. In that period of time, oil, materials and manufacturing processes all have taken a huge leap forward, so I don't think break-in is as iimportant as seem folks make it to be. As an example, Corvette engines have no break-in period. Supposedly they are ready to go from the plant and either the rings seat immediately or they don't all at. GM does recommend a 1000 mile break-in, but this is to establish a proper wear pattern on the gearing (or so said the common knowledge back in '07 when I bought my Vette). This, I believe, was from a Corvette engineer on Corvette Forums.
I don't think any manufacturer recommends an early oil change anymore, but that certainly doesn't hurt anything and may still be a good practice.
03-10-2015, 05:34 PM
#22
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 69
There is no special break in oil used from factory. The oil used is whatever the owner's manual states is recommended. For Mustangs that would be the semi-synthetic oil.
03-12-2015, 08:04 AM
#23
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
My 2 cents worth is do whatever the factory recommends.
Having said that, a lot of break-in (and oil change) recommendations date from when I first started driving almost 50 yrs. ago. In that period of time, oil, materials and manufacturing processes all have taken a huge leap forward, so I don't think break-in is as iimportant as seem folks make it to be. As an example, Corvette engines have no break-in period. Supposedly they are ready to go from the plant and either the rings seat immediately or they don't all at. GM does recommend a 1000 mile break-in, but this is to establish a proper wear pattern on the gearing (or so said the common knowledge back in '07 when I bought my Vette). This, I believe, was from a Corvette engineer on Corvette Forums.
I don't think any manufacturer recommends an early oil change anymore, but that certainly doesn't hurt anything and may still be a good practice.
Having said that, a lot of break-in (and oil change) recommendations date from when I first started driving almost 50 yrs. ago. In that period of time, oil, materials and manufacturing processes all have taken a huge leap forward, so I don't think break-in is as iimportant as seem folks make it to be. As an example, Corvette engines have no break-in period. Supposedly they are ready to go from the plant and either the rings seat immediately or they don't all at. GM does recommend a 1000 mile break-in, but this is to establish a proper wear pattern on the gearing (or so said the common knowledge back in '07 when I bought my Vette). This, I believe, was from a Corvette engineer on Corvette Forums.
I don't think any manufacturer recommends an early oil change anymore, but that certainly doesn't hurt anything and may still be a good practice.
The point is well taken with respect to gears and wear patterns - the instructions for fitting new axle gears includes break-in procedure, and trust me, the diff will run hot in the beginning as the heaviest wear is occurring. Same for the gears in your car's transmission, and it probably doesn't even cross most peoples' minds that the transmission might be something with break-in requirements all its own.
I'm quite sure that the 7th gen Corvette comes with a 4000 rpm max rpm restriction, though I'm not sure how long that applies (I'm thinking 1500 miles). Last year, Hooked On Driving had a new C7 at some of their track days, available for rides and drives, and that restriction was clearly mentioned at the drivers' meeting for those interested in taking a nearly brand new car out for a lap or two. (Yes, I took advantage of the offer, yes it's a very impressive car, and at 4000 rpm in 4th you're moving along pretty damn quickly.)
Norm
03-12-2015, 11:19 AM
#24
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Illinois
Posts: 52
Break-in may not have to be as extensive as it used to be, but that doesn't mean that the need for it has gone away entirely either. Rings grabbed at random and installed in cylinders finished with tooling at an unknown point in their usable life guarantees that the final fit will require a certain amount of running in. There is no way of knowing in advance how many miles any given engine will require.
I think all manufacturers also tell you to vary the RPM. Not to drive at a steady RPM for too long for 1000 or whatever miles.
03-12-2015, 12:33 PM
#25
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Correct on varying the rpm.
This is quoted directly from the 2014 Camaro Owner Manual. I doubt that the Corvette gets any special dispensation.
Norm
This is quoted directly from the 2014 Camaro Owner Manual. I doubt that the Corvette gets any special dispensation.
Follow these recommended guidelines during the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi) of driving this vehicle. Parts have a break-in period and performance will be better in the long run.
. For the first2 414 km (1,500 mi):
. Avoid full throttle starts andabrupt stops.
. Do not exceed4000 engine rpm.
. Avoid driving at any oneconstant speed, fast or slow.
. Do not drive above129 km/h (80 mph).
. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4,000 rpm.
. Do not let the engine labor.
Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
. Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break-in period.
. Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi).
. To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km (200 mi). New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
. New brake linings also need a break-in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 322 km (200 mi). This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
. Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break-in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced before hand.
. For the first2 414 km (1,500 mi):
. Avoid full throttle starts andabrupt stops.
. Do not exceed4000 engine rpm.
. Avoid driving at any oneconstant speed, fast or slow.
. Do not drive above129 km/h (80 mph).
. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4,000 rpm.
. Do not let the engine labor.
Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
. Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break-in period.
. Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi).
. To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km (200 mi). New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
. New brake linings also need a break-in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 322 km (200 mi). This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
. Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break-in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced before hand.
Norm
03-13-2015, 07:17 AM
#27
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
No problem, John. I've probably downloaded more free Mustang and Camaro owner manuals as .pdf's than the number of new cars I've ever owned.
Out of curiosity, what year 'Vette did you have?
Norm
Out of curiosity, what year 'Vette did you have?
Norm
03-13-2015, 03:35 PM
#28
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Illinois
Posts: 52
It was an '07. Delivered in Oct. '06. LeMans Blue (similar to Mustang Deep Impact Blue) with Competion Grey wheels. Made a few mods to it (as I always seem to do). Ran very well and I enjoyed it but my wife hated it, so we never took it anywhere. Outside of a few tracks days and driving to work once or twice a week, it just didn't get driven much and I hate to let a car sit around, so I got rid of it.
05-13-2015, 12:15 PM
#29
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 2
I don't have a mustang but I have built 700 Crank HP motors. What I do for my motors is start let idle to operating temp, change oil and filter. Then I take it out for a spin. Process as follows:
With keep boost pressures as low as possible:
1) Bring RPMS up to about 5k in second gear and let off the gas and let it engine brake to 2k (I have been told the Vacuum helps seat rings)
2) 3rd Gear (Repeat Above)
3)3rd Gear 6k-2k.
4) Same as above
Go back home and change oil and filter. Then to break in the clutch its all above heat cycles. So no rev dumping or launching the car. Just drive around the city, take a bunch of roads with stop lights and stop signs. Avoid Highways at constant speed: This is for both the engine and clutch. Then I change the oil/filter at 1k miles. After that everything is broken in and go to normal interval for oil changes.
I have done this above method and I have always had damn near "perfect" compression numbers on all the engines I built.
With keep boost pressures as low as possible:
1) Bring RPMS up to about 5k in second gear and let off the gas and let it engine brake to 2k (I have been told the Vacuum helps seat rings)
2) 3rd Gear (Repeat Above)
3)3rd Gear 6k-2k.
4) Same as above
Go back home and change oil and filter. Then to break in the clutch its all above heat cycles. So no rev dumping or launching the car. Just drive around the city, take a bunch of roads with stop lights and stop signs. Avoid Highways at constant speed: This is for both the engine and clutch. Then I change the oil/filter at 1k miles. After that everything is broken in and go to normal interval for oil changes.
I have done this above method and I have always had damn near "perfect" compression numbers on all the engines I built.
05-14-2015, 10:11 AM
#30
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 106
I would follow the manufacturers procedure, whatever that may be. They have done extensive testing that I certainly don't understand, and they also have to honor the warranties. They want max life and reliability for their own sake. Engineers build in a factor of safety that allows for someone who doesn't want to follow procedures but how does that affect longevity? It's crap shoot. Every machined part is built to a tolerance, which means some engines could start life either slightly tighter or looser than nominal.