Coyote Supercharger Availability?
#23
Any thought or plans to offer a "non maximum" version for those of us who want extra power too but don't really want to push it to the maximum recommended so we greatly reduce the chance of blowing our motors or as someone posted here "turning our rods to dust."??
How about a 5.5-6 psi version good for 550+ hp instead of the 7 psi that's good for 600 hp? The "non maximum" version would be the one I'd be interested in purchasing. Without it, I would not purchase at all as I'm more interested in reliable performance rather than "pushing the envelope" performance at the risk of safety and reliability.
Thanks
#24
I think this is the first time I've ever agreed with this guy on anything.
#25
Indeed, I'm curious what kind of gains would result from a supercharger build that can allow the use of stock internals; fuel pump would probably need to change to a dual. I myself am also interested in a build that doesn't push the envelope. As it was so eloquently said to me, 600+ hp on the street is just plum ignorant :P
#26
That's not 100% true...
If you have the supercharger installed from factory, or by the dealership prior to taking it off the lot on a NEW car, then it retains 100% of the 3yr/36K mile BUMPER-TO-BUMPER warranty!
However, if it is a USED car then you can only get 12/12 warranty...but it is still a FULL warranty, not only on the S/C. That's why Ford gives you the Procal Programmer. You have to use their tune to make sure it is safe.
Additionally, if you check your warranty it states that if you have FORD parts installed by a certified place (even non-ford) it is included under warranty. Also that if you have non-ford parts installed at FORD then it can be included under warranty. It says it in mine...I'll post a picture to prove it! My car is full of FRPP and non-ford gear and still 100% under warranty.
And it's been that way for the last few years....Roush dealer lied to you because he wants you to buy a roush supercharger instead of a FRPP one...just so ya know
If you have the supercharger installed from factory, or by the dealership prior to taking it off the lot on a NEW car, then it retains 100% of the 3yr/36K mile BUMPER-TO-BUMPER warranty!
However, if it is a USED car then you can only get 12/12 warranty...but it is still a FULL warranty, not only on the S/C. That's why Ford gives you the Procal Programmer. You have to use their tune to make sure it is safe.
Additionally, if you check your warranty it states that if you have FORD parts installed by a certified place (even non-ford) it is included under warranty. Also that if you have non-ford parts installed at FORD then it can be included under warranty. It says it in mine...I'll post a picture to prove it! My car is full of FRPP and non-ford gear and still 100% under warranty.
And it's been that way for the last few years....Roush dealer lied to you because he wants you to buy a roush supercharger instead of a FRPP one...just so ya know
i also asked my dealer, who has a speed shop, and they said absolutely the HO kit voids the warranty and the 400hp kit left you what i mentioned before. and my car had 7 miles and was brand new off the lot. That was with me asking them to install. So one of us has bad info, mine came from FRPP. that said, i could have talked to the only dumbass in the place, i have no idea. I am also under the impression that they changed warranty coverage starting with the 10 year models. Anyone interested in this needs to really, really do their research and don't trust the dealer's word. they will say anything to make a $5K sale on a blower kit. I'd be nervous voiding the warranty on a new car, which is why i am on the M90, but especially worried about voiding the warranty on a first year for a new drive train. ask anyone with an early 05 S197 how much fun it was to be first.
#27
The 2.3L they are offering suggests they are going to push 7 psi out of it or "the maximum recommended" on the stock internals.
Any thought or plans to offer a "non maximum" version for those of us who want extra power too but don't really want to push it to the maximum recommended so we greatly reduce the chance of blowing our motors or as someone posted here "turning our rods to dust."??
How about a 5.5-6 psi version good for 550+ hp instead of the 7 psi that's good for 600 hp? The "non maximum" version would be the one I'd be interested in purchasing. Without it, I would not purchase at all as I'm more interested in reliable performance rather than "pushing the envelope" performance at the risk of safety and reliability.
Thanks
Any thought or plans to offer a "non maximum" version for those of us who want extra power too but don't really want to push it to the maximum recommended so we greatly reduce the chance of blowing our motors or as someone posted here "turning our rods to dust."??
How about a 5.5-6 psi version good for 550+ hp instead of the 7 psi that's good for 600 hp? The "non maximum" version would be the one I'd be interested in purchasing. Without it, I would not purchase at all as I'm more interested in reliable performance rather than "pushing the envelope" performance at the risk of safety and reliability.
Thanks
You can run the same system with just a larger pulley to make less boost and be able to meet the power goals you're looking for. Then when you decide to turn it up just put the smaller pulley back on and you're all set to go.
Ford already has hundreds of hours of durability testing into the 7psi kit. They won't release it as a FRPP kit if it's going to be blowing motors.
Look at what Strictly Performance did this weekend. They went 9's on the stock bottom end. It's stronger than you think.
Jared
#28
Thanks for the info Jared.
Though impressive as 9's is for Strictly Performance, not blowing the motor after having it for a month doesn't mean reliable at that level yet.
If the 5.0 proves to not blow motors at 7 psi after 20k hard miles then I may be ok with it.
But either way, I'm more of the type to play it a bit safe than push my luck. To me the difference of 40-50 hp when you are talking 550-600 hp means very little, but it may mean a BIG difference if a 550 hp car can run hundreds of 1/4 mile runs and rolling runs with no problems but a 600 hp version has a half dozen blown engines in the next 6 months to a year.
But again, thanks for the info of just using a slightly larger pulley.
I'd think there would need to be a different tune for it too, and not the same one used for the smaller pulley that produces 7 psi correct?
Though impressive as 9's is for Strictly Performance, not blowing the motor after having it for a month doesn't mean reliable at that level yet.
If the 5.0 proves to not blow motors at 7 psi after 20k hard miles then I may be ok with it.
But either way, I'm more of the type to play it a bit safe than push my luck. To me the difference of 40-50 hp when you are talking 550-600 hp means very little, but it may mean a BIG difference if a 550 hp car can run hundreds of 1/4 mile runs and rolling runs with no problems but a 600 hp version has a half dozen blown engines in the next 6 months to a year.
But again, thanks for the info of just using a slightly larger pulley.
I'd think there would need to be a different tune for it too, and not the same one used for the smaller pulley that produces 7 psi correct?
#29
On a serious note, doubtful anyone on this forum really cares whether you agree with me or not and on what when you do. So no need to really make a post regarding that revelation for you, but the fact of the matter is, your statement above isn't true either.
Last edited by Driver72; 06-19-2010 at 11:43 PM.
#30