Put the mustang on the scales today
02-11-2012, 08:29 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 469
How much weight did the wheels shave off?
Did you just remove the front bar to go to the track? I wouldn't recommend leaving it off.
If it is weight reduction for passes at the track, I also pull the passenger seat and the rear seat bottom (50 more lbs). The rear seat backs are 15lbs, but slightly more hassle to remove. A gallon of windshield washer fluid in the reservoir is 8lbs. All of that is another 75lbs for passes at the track.
My tailpipes are around 18 more lbs(I don't remember the exact figure off the top of my head). I recently pulled them because I love the deep rumble without the tailpipes.
That is close to another 100lbs available.
A tubular K and control arms will get you around 70lbs reduction.
Good luck in your quest for 2900!
Did you just remove the front bar to go to the track? I wouldn't recommend leaving it off.
If it is weight reduction for passes at the track, I also pull the passenger seat and the rear seat bottom (50 more lbs). The rear seat backs are 15lbs, but slightly more hassle to remove. A gallon of windshield washer fluid in the reservoir is 8lbs. All of that is another 75lbs for passes at the track.
My tailpipes are around 18 more lbs(I don't remember the exact figure off the top of my head). I recently pulled them because I love the deep rumble without the tailpipes.
That is close to another 100lbs available.
A tubular K and control arms will get you around 70lbs reduction.
Good luck in your quest for 2900!
02-12-2012, 09:39 AM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 345
If you add together all of those things true blue mentioned + removed the stock seats you will be getting under 3000lbs. Those front seats are heavy, and there are quite a few good looking light replacements out now adays.
02-12-2012, 10:05 AM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 350
just minor things.
Front sway bar and all hardware
light weight alum wheels ( 15x10 and 15x3 .5
the weight off the rear end housing
The metal plate under the steering colum
the little black boxes in the rear wheel wells and all the brackets
Fiberglass hood
spare tire and jack
Front sway bar and all hardware
light weight alum wheels ( 15x10 and 15x3 .5
the weight off the rear end housing
The metal plate under the steering colum
the little black boxes in the rear wheel wells and all the brackets
Fiberglass hood
spare tire and jack
thanks and good luck on the diet
02-12-2012, 02:01 PM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 469
wouldnt mind losing some weight on mine either . i have a few quick questions if you dont mind. will taking the weight off of the rear end have any adverse effects? what does it weigh? what are those little black boxes in the rear wheel wells?
thanks and good luck on the diet
thanks and good luck on the diet
02-12-2012, 03:39 PM
#16
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 1,481
I don't know anything about those black boxes...
It is better to remove weight from the front than the rear for weight transfer/distribution issues. That being said, weight is the enemy of everything performance oriented. Stopping, turning and accelerating all happen better with less weight. In basic terms, your trap speed at the drag strip is a reflection of your power to weight ratio. Less weight is like adding power when it comes to racing.
If you haven't already done so, I recommend relocating the 35lb battery from the front corner of the car to the right rear corner of your trunk. This won't reduce weight, but it is a good move to improve the weight distribution.
The one place that a lot of guys (myself included) tend to ignore on weight reduction is sitting in the driver's seat. I could drop 20lbs and both me and the car would be quicker
It is better to remove weight from the front than the rear for weight transfer/distribution issues. That being said, weight is the enemy of everything performance oriented. Stopping, turning and accelerating all happen better with less weight. In basic terms, your trap speed at the drag strip is a reflection of your power to weight ratio. Less weight is like adding power when it comes to racing.
If you haven't already done so, I recommend relocating the 35lb battery from the front corner of the car to the right rear corner of your trunk. This won't reduce weight, but it is a good move to improve the weight distribution.
The one place that a lot of guys (myself included) tend to ignore on weight reduction is sitting in the driver's seat. I could drop 20lbs and both me and the car would be quicker
02-12-2012, 08:32 PM
#19
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 1,481
I ran my power wire mostly down along the FLSFC on the passenger side of the car. Ground wire just needs to find a good ground point close to the battery. A battery relocation kit is pretty easy to install. Just plan out the mounting location and wire routing before you start mounting and running stuff.
