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5.0L V8 Technical Discussions Any questions about the 'Coyote' engine, transmission, exhaust, tuners/CAI, or gearing can be asked here!

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Old 05-14-2012, 04:02 PM   #21
Enochius
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Yeah, tirerack.com had some good ones too. It just seems like all 20's are expensive. As soon as I get on my computer I'll post it.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:22 PM   #22
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Yeah, tirerack.com had some good ones too. It just seems like all 20's are expensive. As soon as I get on my computer I'll post it.
I tell you what, you are the man (or woman lol). tirerack.com has a really good selection! Not an arm and a leg for the ones i am looking at as far as wheels, don't know about tires yet lol. Thanks again!
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:39 PM   #23
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No problem!!! When you find what you want post it up! Lol
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:46 PM   #24
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Here one of the ones I am considering.
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale....x10OMEGABLKCHR

Here is the other one.
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale....MACHULTRALIGHT

Give your opinion maybe that will help me choose. I am torn.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:29 PM   #25
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Here one of the ones I am considering.
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale....x10OMEGABLKCHR

Here is the other one.
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale....MACHULTRALIGHT

Give your opinion maybe that will help me choose. I am torn.
Definitely digging the black chrome! But if you are on a tight budget the other ones are awesome too. Black chrome FTW =)

From AM which ones do you think? Mine will be black soooo..

http://www.americanmuscle.com/chrome...itto-stag.html

or

http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-...itto-stag.html

and do i have to get the stupid sensor? I have never ever hit a curb in my cobra (5 years driving, 3 of which were young and dumb lol). Still looking at tirerack, i hate they have no good tires! I want comp street tires MT or NITTO lol.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:34 PM   #26
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I think chrome looks awesome with black! Lol
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:15 PM   #27
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I think chrome looks awesome with black! Lol
The more i think about it, the more i think you are right lol. I think have decided on what i will go with. Now since you are being most helpful right now, i will fire a few more questions if you choose to entertain them fantastic!

Never having sold anything online ever, should i just ebay the stock (GT Track Pack) wheels and tires? Think like 1000 for the combo is too much if they have 24 miles on them lol?

Here is a tough one, so I will only have a couple weeks in Texas before i have to drive back to California. I am pretty concerned with the breakin process and have a somewhat good general idea. What is the minimum amount of miles i should put on this car before i attempt it (1508 miles to my destination)? What are some tips and tricks here, this has really got me nervous lol.

Is the TPMS an absolute or is it more of a luxury thing?

Thanks again for everything let me know if you have any questions as well lol =)
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:40 AM   #28
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I wouldn't worry about the break in at that point. Ford wouldn't build a motor that you couldn't put 2,000 miles on the day you drive it off the showroom floor. I'd change the oil in it when I got back, and I would use a synthetic blend. I think a lot of guys use the motocraft, which is what Ford recomends.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:46 AM   #29
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I wouldn't worry about the break in at that point. Ford wouldn't build a motor that you couldn't put 2,000 miles on the day you drive it off the showroom floor. I'd change the oil in it when I got back, and I would use a synthetic blend. I think a lot of guys use the motocraft, which is what Ford recomends.
So I should do the first one at 500 miles then another at 3000 correct? I should be fine as long as i do not just sit at one RPM correct? Just make sure i vary speed and take frequent breaks? I agree that i shouldnt have to worry about it but i am still a wee bit nervous lol. 1995 is alot different then a brand new 2013 lol. Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:44 PM   #30
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I changed the oil in my 2012 the first time at 1500 miles. You still got the break in oil running through the motor and I've heard you don't want to change it so soon so I waited till 1500. I changed the oil again at 3,000 miles and then I run anywhere between 4,000-5,000 miles between oil changes now. I would invest in a JLT oil seperator, its a little over $100 on American Muscle (where i buy ALL my mustang parts) and it will trap the oil running back to the intake from the motor. Especially if you start to do some bolt on mods. My first 3 purchases were the axle back exhaust, a JLT CAI, and a tuner from Bama. When you buy the tuner you get the 3 free tunes (street, performance, and race) and free tunes for life. Also I wouldn't run anything lower than 93 octane either. All 3 of my tunes are set up for 93 octane.
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:55 PM   #31
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I changed the oil in my 2012 the first time at 1500 miles. You still got the break in oil running through the motor and I've heard you don't want to change it so soon so I waited till 1500. I changed the oil again at 3,000 miles and then I run anywhere between 4,000-5,000 miles between oil changes now. I would invest in a JLT oil seperator, its a little over $100 on American Muscle (where i buy ALL my mustang parts) and it will trap the oil running back to the intake from the motor. Especially if you start to do some bolt on mods. My first 3 purchases were the axle back exhaust, a JLT CAI, and a tuner from Bama. When you buy the tuner you get the 3 free tunes (street, performance, and race) and free tunes for life. Also I wouldn't run anything lower than 93 octane either. All 3 of my tunes are set up for 93 octane.
Okay first off, awesome input really appreciate it. I will follow your guidance to the T with the oil. So use motorcraft oil 5w-20 synth at 1500 and 3000 and every 4-5k after correct?

Yep definitely getting the JLT oil separator, i was read about it in a another thread.

And the purchases you listed are exactly what is in my build list haha! The only thing is i will be heading to Cali, so only 91 octane =(

Future mods for me are:
Pypes AB
Custom 3 inch pipe cat back (Probably after i feel the AB are getting quiet)
JLT oil seperator
JLT CAI
BAMA Tuner (all 91 due to CA)
Barton Short Throw shifter

Will purchase everything except piping first. Kinda worried about the warranty thing but cant live life in fear lol
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:30 AM   #32
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The oil is a synthetic blend, its not fully synthetic. About your short throw, I was reading into it and I head that it gets a LOT of rattles. That it's really loud when driving down the road. I started to look into the hurst shifter and I think that's the way I'm going to go. It doesn't yuse the safety revers feature (having to push down to go into reverse) but after a few trips down the road you'll be able to tell the difference in 1st and reverse. That's just my 2 cents
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrzyHrs View Post
The oil is a synthetic blend, its not fully synthetic. About your short throw, I was reading into it and I head that it gets a LOT of rattles. That it's really loud when driving down the road. I started to look into the hurst shifter and I think that's the way I'm going to go. It doesn't yuse the safety revers feature (having to push down to go into reverse) but after a few trips down the road you'll be able to tell the difference in 1st and reverse. That's just my 2 cents
Hrmmm. Didn't know about the rattle. Going to read into it some more. Yea I have never driven a 6 speed only 5 speeds and dont think i will have any issues with reverse lol. Will do some more reading. Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:49 PM   #34
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Check out some of the reviews on American Muscle. AM also used the hurst short throw on there 2012 GT Project Car blackout. If you haven't seen any of the videos on that you need to check it out. It's on their home page on the right side. www.americanmuscle.com it's pretty sweet.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:32 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by CrzyHrs View Post
Check out some of the reviews on American Muscle. AM also used the hurst short throw on there 2012 GT Project Car blackout. If you haven't seen any of the videos on that you need to check it out. It's on their home page on the right side. www.americanmuscle.com it's pretty sweet.
Oh yea, i love AM! I dropped about 6 grand on the cobra before it got totaled =(. All was from AM. Definitely looking into the hurst shifter. I cant watch videos due to where i am currently at, but i trust you =).
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:56 PM   #36
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Yea, I almost totalled this Mustang. I hit a 1000 pound bull running about 45MPH... destroyed the front end.. $16,000 worth of damage... plus side, i got everything on the front for free... new hood, grille, front valence, and lights.. all free
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:40 AM   #37
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Look at the mgw shifter. Nice unit.
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:04 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrzyHrs View Post
The oil is a synthetic blend, its not fully synthetic. About your short throw, I was reading into it and I head that it gets a LOT of rattles. That it's really loud when driving down the road. I started to look into the hurst shifter and I think that's the way I'm going to go. It doesn't yuse the safety revers feature (having to push down to go into reverse) but after a few trips down the road you'll be able to tell the difference in 1st and reverse. That's just my 2 cents
About the shifters...there are only 4 on the market for the 11-13 models. I have done a lot of research on these and this is what i found out.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny

Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.

Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff

Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post

MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com

As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:28 PM   #39
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Yea, I almost totalled this Mustang. I hit a 1000 pound bull running about 45MPH... destroyed the front end.. $16,000 worth of damage... plus side, i got everything on the front for free... new hood, grille, front valence, and lights.. all free
Ouch! That sound gnarly, lol! I got clipped in a parking lot by a brand new Cadillac CTS by a 19 year old female who just got the car like a week before she hit me! She got me driver side fender and said she was going 5 mph lol. Anyways over 12k in damages without tearing into it... Was my dream car and is now where it will stay, in my dreams lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by clowe1965 View Post
Look at the mgw shifter. Nice unit.
Looking it up now, thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by steel pony View Post
About the shifters...there are only 4 on the market for the 11-13 models. I have done a lot of research on these and this is what i found out.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny

Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.

Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff

Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post

MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com

As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
Perfect information! Going to do more research as i have a couple months before i pick up the car and get back to the states. Thanks for everything guys. Looking into the parking sensor, think it is worth $170? Never needed it before but also never had a brand new car lol.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:33 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel pony View Post
About the shifters...there are only 4 on the market for the 11-13 models. I have done a lot of research on these and this is what i found out.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny

Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.

Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff

Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post

MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com

As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
Hey Guys,
Just wanted to chime in on this comment. As far as 40% reduction hurting the Trans comment. THIS IS NOT TRUE.
When we 1st released our shifter, MGW made a post how anything over 20% reduction would hurt the syncros and their shifter would be 18-20% reduction when it was available. This caught traction and has been posted on multiple forums. It's simply not the truth, it's just a marketing gimmick to scare people away from our shifter. When they finally released their shifter they said it was 25% reduction, WELL.... just the other day on SVTP they had a few people saying they wished they would make the shifter shorter. MGW's reply was that they were working on offering a new top portion to their box that would make the shifter 30-35% reduction. Right after that MGW posted back and said they re-measured their shifter and it was actually 33% reduction all ready, and that they forgot to account for the shorter shaft when calculating throw reduction. So the same company that stated anything over 20% reduction would hurt the trans is no claiming their shifter is 33% reduction.

We've sold about 3000 shifters for the 2011+ Mustang. We offer a full 30 day money back Guarantee, Install it, use it, send it back if you dont like it. Out of those 3000 shifters, we have had 5 returns, that's a pretty good track record.

Shelby American uses our shifters in their GT350 cars, they could have chosen anyone they wanted to and they went with ours.

We also have a new box design that will be out in the coming months and it will feature our flat stick design like on our 2005-10 shifter and GT500 shifter. Along with the option of just a standard shaft for the factory appearance. If this design works like Im hopping it will, then it will be unlike anything out there.

One of the issues with a shifter that doesn't feature a reverse lockout and relies on a spring, is that if your drag racing or simply shifting hard, you risk the chance of pulling it a little to hard to you when you shift from 1st to 2nd gear, and that spring allows the shifter to move to far over and you get locked out of 2nd gear because you are trying to shift to a gear that is not there. I go to a lot of NMRA events, and I get asked all the time why their particular shifter does that. I tell them the issue why and once they switch to our shifter the problem is gone.

Thanks,
Dave

Last edited by Barton Industries; 05-17-2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:33 PM
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