New with a few Q's
05-17-2012, 03:37 PM
#41
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
Hey Guys,
Just wanted to chime in on this comment. As far as 40% reduction hurting the Trans comment. THIS IS NOT TRUE.
When we 1st released our shifter, MGW made a post how anything over 20% reduction would hurt the syncros and their shifter would be 18-20% reduction when it was available. This caught traction and has been posted on multiple forums. It's simply not the truth, it's just a marketing gimmick to scare people away from our shifter. When they finally released their shifter they said it was 25% reduction, WELL.... just the other day on SVTP they had a few people saying they wished they would make the shifter shorter. MGW's reply was that they were working on offering a new top portion to their box that would make the shifter 30-35% reduction. Right after that MGW posted back and said they re-measured their shifter and it was actually 33% reduction all ready, and that they forgot to account for the shorter shaft when calculating throw reduction. So the same company that stated anything over 20% reduction would hurt the trans is no claiming their shifter is 33% reduction.
We've sold about 3000 shifters for the 2011+ Mustang. We offer a full 30 day money back Guarantee, Install it, use it, send it back if you dont like it. Out of those 3000 shifters, we have had 5 returns, that's a pretty good track record.
Shelby American uses our shifters in their GT350 cars, they could have chosen anyone they wanted to and they went with ours.
We also have a new box design that will be out in the coming months and it will feature our flat stick design like on our 2005-10 shifter and GT500 shifter. Along with the option of just a standard shaft for the factory appearance. If this design works like Im hopping it will, then it will be unlike anything out there.
One of the issues with a shifter that doesn't feature a reverse lockout and relies on a spring, is that if your drag racing or simply shifting hard, you risk the chance of pulling it a little to hard to you when you shift from 1st to 2nd gear, and that spring allows the shifter to move to far over and you get locked out of 2nd gear because you are trying to shift to a gear that is not there. I go to a lot of NMRA events, and I get asked all the time why their particular shifter does that. I tell them the issue why and once they switch to our shifter the problem is gone.
Thanks,
Dave
Just wanted to chime in on this comment. As far as 40% reduction hurting the Trans comment. THIS IS NOT TRUE.
When we 1st released our shifter, MGW made a post how anything over 20% reduction would hurt the syncros and their shifter would be 18-20% reduction when it was available. This caught traction and has been posted on multiple forums. It's simply not the truth, it's just a marketing gimmick to scare people away from our shifter. When they finally released their shifter they said it was 25% reduction, WELL.... just the other day on SVTP they had a few people saying they wished they would make the shifter shorter. MGW's reply was that they were working on offering a new top portion to their box that would make the shifter 30-35% reduction. Right after that MGW posted back and said they re-measured their shifter and it was actually 33% reduction all ready, and that they forgot to account for the shorter shaft when calculating throw reduction. So the same company that stated anything over 20% reduction would hurt the trans is no claiming their shifter is 33% reduction.
We've sold about 3000 shifters for the 2011+ Mustang. We offer a full 30 day money back Guarantee, Install it, use it, send it back if you dont like it. Out of those 3000 shifters, we have had 5 returns, that's a pretty good track record.
Shelby American uses our shifters in their GT350 cars, they could have chosen anyone they wanted to and they went with ours.
We also have a new box design that will be out in the coming months and it will feature our flat stick design like on our 2005-10 shifter and GT500 shifter. Along with the option of just a standard shaft for the factory appearance. If this design works like Im hopping it will, then it will be unlike anything out there.
One of the issues with a shifter that doesn't feature a reverse lockout and relies on a spring, is that if your drag racing or simply shifting hard, you risk the chance of pulling it a little to hard to you when you shift from 1st to 2nd gear, and that spring allows the shifter to move to far over and you get locked out of 2nd gear because you are trying to shift to a gear that is not there. I go to a lot of NMRA events, and I get asked all the time why their particular shifter does that. I tell them the issue why and once they switch to our shifter the problem is gone.
Thanks,
Dave
05-18-2012, 06:13 AM
#42
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: texas
Posts: 127
Barton you also forgot to mention that you have the rear trans bracket. I dont know if barton was first but its nice! But what is this flat stick you speak of?? My buddy had 2 other shifters before the barton that were .. well crap. So before i buy the barton.. whats the flat stick
05-18-2012, 12:45 PM
#43
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
Oh man, think i finally decided on the exhaust setup i will attempt to go with. Looks like i will be sticking with what i know and getting Borla ATAK AB and then find a shops to make me an x pipe with 3 inch all the way back. What do you guys think?
05-20-2012, 02:59 PM
#44
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 195
I too am a very happy new Houston, TX owner of a 2013 purchased May 5th and I was just reading through your thread. If your still interested in the owners manual this link should get you there
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WODMUS/~MUS~LEN/42/13musom1e.pdf
I was reading your thread on the break in period and according to the owners manual they suggest a 1000 miles. I’m also going to be putting some miles on mine since I’m heading out next week for 1,700 miles round trip drive to St. Louis and back. I will have about 900 miles on the car when I depart. My plan is to have the first oil change in St. Louis at around 1,700 miles.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WODMUS/~MUS~LEN/42/13musom1e.pdf
I was reading your thread on the break in period and according to the owners manual they suggest a 1000 miles. I’m also going to be putting some miles on mine since I’m heading out next week for 1,700 miles round trip drive to St. Louis and back. I will have about 900 miles on the car when I depart. My plan is to have the first oil change in St. Louis at around 1,700 miles.
05-20-2012, 06:01 PM
#45
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
I too am a very happy new Houston, TX owner of a 2013 purchased May 5th and I was just reading through your thread. If your still interested in the owners manual this link should get you there
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WODMUS/~MUS~LEN/42/13musom1e.pdf
I was reading your thread on the break in period and according to the owners manual they suggest a 1000 miles. I’m also going to be putting some miles on mine since I’m heading out next week for 1,700 miles round trip drive to St. Louis and back. I will have about 900 miles on the car when I depart. My plan is to have the first oil change in St. Louis at around 1,700 miles.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WODMUS/~MUS~LEN/42/13musom1e.pdf
I was reading your thread on the break in period and according to the owners manual they suggest a 1000 miles. I’m also going to be putting some miles on mine since I’m heading out next week for 1,700 miles round trip drive to St. Louis and back. I will have about 900 miles on the car when I depart. My plan is to have the first oil change in St. Louis at around 1,700 miles.
Okay good to hear about the oil change. I reckon i will shoot for around 1500 for the oil change and try to do it before i leave. As for the owner's manual, i get brought to a login page that says "an error has been detected". No idea here.
Now how do you like the car? I have only driven up to a 2003 V-6 as far as the mustangs go and have never been in a new one. I went purely off of one of my buddy's father who has a 97 and 98 cobra (he got me to fall in love with my 95 lol). He said they are absolutely wonderful. When my cobra got totaled i took a chance, no test drive or anything just a feeling. Let me know i am super curious! Thanks!
05-20-2012, 06:20 PM
#46
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 195
I really like it; I've been trying to learn to drive it moderately at first then pickup a little more throttle as I go. There are only two things right out of the box that I wanted to change, 1st being the exhaust. The stock exhaust in my humble opinion is way to soft for this car. I put a axle back on it after a few hundred miles and now I'm very pleased with the tone.
2nd being the height, I come from a lowered car world (nothing extreme) and every time I look at it I think it should be dropped a 1" or maybe a little more. The stock height is not bad and I’ll probably get use to it. I'm just a little worried about the factory warranty if I start putting stuff on it I cannot easily remove.
Sorry about the owner’s manual link, I guess you have to be signed in or something for it to work. If you want to email at mojobama AT comcast.net I'll attach the owners manual to a PDF and email it back to you (size of file is 5080K)
2nd being the height, I come from a lowered car world (nothing extreme) and every time I look at it I think it should be dropped a 1" or maybe a little more. The stock height is not bad and I’ll probably get use to it. I'm just a little worried about the factory warranty if I start putting stuff on it I cannot easily remove.
Sorry about the owner’s manual link, I guess you have to be signed in or something for it to work. If you want to email at mojobama AT comcast.net I'll attach the owners manual to a PDF and email it back to you (size of file is 5080K)
05-20-2012, 06:54 PM
#47
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
I really like it; I've been trying to learn to drive it moderately at first then pickup a little more throttle as I go. There are only two things right out of the box that I wanted to change, 1st being the exhaust. The stock exhaust in my humble opinion is way to soft for this car. I put a axle back on it after a few hundred miles and now I'm very pleased with the tone.
2nd being the height, I come from a lowered car world (nothing extreme) and every time I look at it I think it should be dropped a 1" or maybe a little more. The stock height is not bad and I’ll probably get use to it. I'm just a little worried about the factory warranty if I start putting stuff on it I cannot easily remove.
Sorry about the owner’s manual link, I guess you have to be signed in or something for it to work. If you want to email at mojobama AT comcast.net I'll attach the owners manual to a PDF and email it back to you (size of file is 5080K)
2nd being the height, I come from a lowered car world (nothing extreme) and every time I look at it I think it should be dropped a 1" or maybe a little more. The stock height is not bad and I’ll probably get use to it. I'm just a little worried about the factory warranty if I start putting stuff on it I cannot easily remove.
Sorry about the owner’s manual link, I guess you have to be signed in or something for it to work. If you want to email at mojobama AT comcast.net I'll attach the owners manual to a PDF and email it back to you (size of file is 5080K)
