Dragging a 2013 GT
04-03-2014, 11:44 PM
#12
How serviceable is the stock drivetrain (clutch, driveshaft, axles, gears) for a fairly steady diet of drag racing? At some point it will all be replaced with heavy duty components but I don't really want to wait. I'm already getting the rear suspension in order, welded tubes, UCA, LCA's, Panhard & Brace, LCA lowering brackets, shocks. It's a manual so I want to run a 10" wide slick. Will the stock stuff hold up or will I be scattering parts everywhere?
04-04-2014, 04:29 AM
#13
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: california
Posts: 84
I got a 2012 stick when I play I normal do a rolling start havent launched it yet after my last car a 2010 maro shattered a axle at a 2k drop I know the stang is a solid rear but still kinda scared whats a safe rpm to drop it at
04-04-2014, 08:33 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: BC
Posts: 364
the diff's durability depends on alot of factors. You don't see stock auto cars breaking them as the hit is softer. Similarly, slick-shod manual cars fare better than drag radial cars in this respect.
If you're on street tires, a drop is out because they won't hold and you'll go up in smoke. 2000-2500 on a stick and bleed the clutch in and whatever the flare rpm is on the auto, on street tires.
I run slicks and dump my manual at 4500. It didn't 60 faster dumping it higher, although it held just fine up there.
If you're on street tires, a drop is out because they won't hold and you'll go up in smoke. 2000-2500 on a stick and bleed the clutch in and whatever the flare rpm is on the auto, on street tires.
I run slicks and dump my manual at 4500. It didn't 60 faster dumping it higher, although it held just fine up there.
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