azdevil1

Just picked up a 2014 5.0 - 6 speed manual. Just sold the 08 S197. These are two tottallllly different cars and I'm still breaking in the Coyote at just 300 miles; and learning this new 6 speed gear box too. I have a list of mods for starters the next 60/90 days, similar to my last s197 mods - but wondering what order would you do them in? Why?
Am I missing any other "foundational" mods you'd rather do?

#1 lowering springs
#2 pandhard bar
#3 muffler deletes
#4 o/r h-pipe
#5 4:10 gears
#6 c/a intake + tune

down the road mods: short shifter, long tubes, cam, shocks/struts, stage 2 stuff.

thanks in advance for the help!

scottmach

Skip those gears and skip the CJ Intake. And that exhaust setup will be obnoxiously loud.

AKRA

I would start with a cold air intake, tune, and axial back exhaust. Just these items will add about 35 to 40 hp and a nice seat of the pants feeling.

If interested I have a C & L intake a ran two months before I purchased the supercharger I'll sell you for $100 plus shipping. Original cost $350. (See http://www.brenspeed.com/3000gt11cnl.html) It requires a tune.

With exhaust it sounds like you are eventually going with LT header with no CATs. From what I understand GT500 exhaust is the way to go. Will be a little tame until you remove the CATs and add the headers.

Good luck and enjoy that new car.

BrazenStang

#1&2 - Agreed, good place to start. However, your factory shocks/struts will wear out faster and the ride may not be as good because the factory stuff isn't designed for lowered vehicle.
#3 - It will be loud, but that's what most Mustang owners want.
#4 - With the muffler delete your car will be in a category of its own for loudness.
#5 - Get rid of this. Way too much gear for this car. Go 3.73's if you must do gears.
#6 - Move to #3. A tune does wonders on these cars. Plus, it will be a good thing to have once you go to off-road pipe to maximize fuel ratios and turn off CEL.

I would suggest that you move short throw shifter and bracket up close to the top of the list. Right off the floor, the shifter is OK. After a while, the factory bracket starts to get worn in and the set-up just gets sloppy. There is a lot of improvement in driver feel to be had from a short throw shifter with bracket.

So my recommended order is: CAI + Tune, Muffler Delete, Off-road pipe, Short Shifter + Bracket, Suspension (Spring, Shocks/Struts, UCA, Panhard bar)

OR Suspension (Spring, Shocks/Struts, UCA, Panhard bar), CAI + Tune, Short Shifter + Bracket, Muffler Delete, Off-road pipe

I gave 2 lists because it depends on what you want to do with the car. Handling vs. Power.

azdevil1

Good feedback fellas. BrazenStang, special thanks for the breakdown - I know nothing about 14 Coyote suspension. Helps a lot!

steel pony

I agree mostly with Brazen, with the following revisions

#1-you live in Arizona...TINT should be first! lol!
#2-Tune (CAI even with a tune will only give you minimal gains, if any on the newer 5.0's, until you start widening the diameter of the tubing going into the intake. At that point yer in Supercharger/Turbo area where you will need a bigger throttle body. Save you money, unless you get a smokin deal, like ARKA offered)
#3-exhaust. If you're set on an off-road H or X pipe, do it the same time as the muffler deletes or axle-backs. It's just one of those things where you're going to spend just as much time lining things up as you will installing it. Better to do it once and be done!
#4-Short-Throw Shifter...sooooo much improvement over the sloppy OEM shifter. I'm sure you can feel some difference already between the new car and the old, but a new shifter in these cars is worth every penny!
#5-suspension....do it right, do it all at once! Save the headaches of taking everything apart 6 times! Personally, i think adjustable panhard bars are a waste of money. All you're really doing is putting the same bar in the same location with better bushings and a few things to turn. It does nothing for "improving" suspension. Save the money for a watts link, you won't regret it! Do you need to recenter the car after lowering? yes. Is it really going to affect anything if you don't do it right away? no.
#6-gears...no more than 3:73, as suggested...do these the same time as the watts link, since the diff cover will be off =)

For reference...i think mine went...
#1-tint
#2-CAI/Tune
#3-wheels/rims,axlebacks
#4-shifter, suspension
#5-3:73 gears, watts link
#6-BOSS intake & Longtubes
*cosmetic goodies in between steps of course...

#3&4 all bought at same time, but put on at different times due to parts being in 2 diff states...lol

scottmach

Totally wrong here. An adjustable panhard bar is absolutely necessary even on some cars that are bone stock. I get the impression you don't know what they're designed for.

BrazenStang

No problem. I have done a LOT of research about the suspension on these cars before making my mods. You should do the same, and in the meantime enjoy the car.

My current suspension mods are: LCA's, Relo Brackets, Adjustable Panhard bar, Strut Tower brace (OEM)
Upcoming when I get the time: Adjustable UCA, Pro-kit springs, Koni STR.T's
Other mods: CAI + Tune, Short throw shifter + Bracket, BBK Off-road X-pipe, Flowmaster Outlaws

It seems that we have very similar taste in mods for our cars, haha.

Slowbra302

The BBK and outlaws was the best mods I ever did. I know it's not fast enough for the noise it makes buuuuut, I love it and can't stop smiling when I drive it lol

BrazenStang

LOL. I think it sounds exactly the way a car putting 400+ at the wheels should sound. Its a nasty sound and I love every second that I drive it. It is even wifey approved