Quarter Mile Times
#12
Not real keen on drag radial and a stick. I've used both Dr and slicks, multiple applications. Slicks are way easier on parts than radials. I even drive aired down bias slicks to the track, no problem.
#13
It is the opposite, Slick sticks better to the ground improving your 1/4 mile times but your rear end and transmission to pick up the extra stess. Drag radials slip a little more but can be run on the street. Plus slicks make the car feel like it's moving back & forth.
#14
Pardon? It's the stiff sidewall/carcass of the drag radial that transfers more shock in a shorter period of time, straight to the driveline. The slicks more flexible carcass allows a longer and slower impact time of that stress, reducing its effect on the driveline.
Most people out there seem to agree with me on this one: DR for auto is ok, slick for stick. I can definitely tell the impact difference, as I have used both on my current 2012. The a clutch drop launch at 4500 on radials would smash into the driveline and chassis like the Titanic hitting the iceberg. The slick softened that hit incredibly, though the longer duration probably put a bit more stress on the clutch. I'll take that over broken axles, driveshafts or transmission hard parts.
If you combine radial fronts with bias slick rear, you will have to fly the ship all the way down the quarter. That is true, definitely. Bias frontrunners will reduce this a lot but, I drive to the track so, I'm not putting skinnies on the wheels that control the majority of the braking power of the car.
Most people out there seem to agree with me on this one: DR for auto is ok, slick for stick. I can definitely tell the impact difference, as I have used both on my current 2012. The a clutch drop launch at 4500 on radials would smash into the driveline and chassis like the Titanic hitting the iceberg. The slick softened that hit incredibly, though the longer duration probably put a bit more stress on the clutch. I'll take that over broken axles, driveshafts or transmission hard parts.
If you combine radial fronts with bias slick rear, you will have to fly the ship all the way down the quarter. That is true, definitely. Bias frontrunners will reduce this a lot but, I drive to the track so, I'm not putting skinnies on the wheels that control the majority of the braking power of the car.
#16
#17
Meh, air them up and they aren't so bad. They'll last about a week though, given the compound.
This'll make you laugh: Last year, I exploded one of the factory Pirellis and had to order replacement tires. No big deal, short term, throw the slicks on the back....then it started to snow. For a week I drove around on the snow and slush covered roads on drag slicks. Surprisingly, it wasn't as bad as you'd think. I was able to move, stop and steer the car without any major issues, though the Trac control did get a workout.
So, not particularly intimidated by the idea of a slick on the road, other than the ridiculous wear. I'm not recommending as a practice for others, though.
This'll make you laugh: Last year, I exploded one of the factory Pirellis and had to order replacement tires. No big deal, short term, throw the slicks on the back....then it started to snow. For a week I drove around on the snow and slush covered roads on drag slicks. Surprisingly, it wasn't as bad as you'd think. I was able to move, stop and steer the car without any major issues, though the Trac control did get a workout.
So, not particularly intimidated by the idea of a slick on the road, other than the ridiculous wear. I'm not recommending as a practice for others, though.
#18
#19
Drag radials have a much stiffer sidewall so they dont handle the shock of power on the launch you would normally see with a manual transmission. Automatics tend to be a little more gentle coming out and the radials work great. Definitely room to improve with that 60'
If you're not trying to spend money to go faster you will just have to practice. Pump the front tires up with air, I'd start with the rears at the same psi as street use and I go down in increments of 2psi until it hooks or just barley spins a tad on the launch.
If you're not trying to spend money to go faster you will just have to practice. Pump the front tires up with air, I'd start with the rears at the same psi as street use and I go down in increments of 2psi until it hooks or just barley spins a tad on the launch.
#20
To the OP, just practice, practice and practice. The tune will help alot depending on who does it and what kind of tune it is. But with the tune and practice you'll be in the 12's really soon. Good luck