2014 5.0 doesn't feel much faster than my old 2005 4.6???
#31
The stock 3V heads flow pretty well and come close to the 4.6 4V Cobra/Mach 1 heads, but the Coyote 5.0 heads are something else altogether. The biggest choke point on the 4.6 3V are the stock cams so they'd definitely have to go. The best stroker option might be:
1. Rebuild the existing 4.6 engine with a forged 298ci (or 302) stroker kit and upgrade to a billet oil pump.
2. Have the stock heads CNC ported with 3-angle valve grind and upgraded valve springs/retainers.
3. Add performance cams.
That's true but the above option should save a fair chunk from that.
Alternatively, you could just leave the stock 4.6 engine alone and slap a blower on it while setting yourself a 450rwhp limit.
1. Rebuild the existing 4.6 engine with a forged 298ci (or 302) stroker kit and upgrade to a billet oil pump.
2. Have the stock heads CNC ported with 3-angle valve grind and upgraded valve springs/retainers.
3. Add performance cams.
That's true but the above option should save a fair chunk from that.
Alternatively, you could just leave the stock 4.6 engine alone and slap a blower on it while setting yourself a 450rwhp limit.
I think we are really in apples and oranges comparisons here. Building the shortblock is an option with both engines and smart if you're going for a max effort build. However, the Coyote has proven to be a really solid performer even with the stock bits inside, WAY over what the stock 4.6 whirly bits can handle. Not too many people looking to build a 1000 hp car so, starting with the Coyote stock as a base is a way better starting point, as less is required to get to where you need/want to go. 450 wheel is in the doable range for a coyote n/a, with relatively low mods and cost. CJ mani w. TB, matching CAI, full exhaust, OPGs, maybe a billet camshaft set and a rocking tune.
#32
But they aren't in the same league as the Coyote heads. One look at the specific torque numbers gives that away (78 ft*lbs/L for the Coyote, 70.5-ish for the 4.6).
I'd rather have a Coyote with the 4.6L's shorter stroke (for 293 CI) than a 298 stroker. Should eat any given car with the slightly bigger stroker motor alive, assuming NA in both cases. Probably not much cheaper to build, though. Custom-length rods, for one thing.
Norm
#33
starting with the Coyote stock as a base is a way better starting point, as less is required to get to where you need/want to go. 450 wheel is in the doable range for a coyote n/a, with relatively low mods and cost. CJ mani w. TB, matching CAI, full exhaust, OPGs, maybe a billet camshaft set and a rocking tune.
#34
If I ever do decide to spend an ungodly amount of money on my car the first thing would be a T56 and a Brenspeed B326 with ported heads and cams. That should come close to a
Coyote in power at a lower price plus less hassle with the electronics. Also the T56 beats that crap the Coyote comes with.
Coyote in power at a lower price plus less hassle with the electronics. Also the T56 beats that crap the Coyote comes with.
#35
If I ever do decide to spend an ungodly amount of money on my car the first thing would be a T56 and a Brenspeed B326 with ported heads and cams. That should come close to a
Coyote in power at a lower price plus less hassle with the electronics. Also the T56 beats that crap the Coyote comes with.
Coyote in power at a lower price plus less hassle with the electronics. Also the T56 beats that crap the Coyote comes with.
#37
You're assuming the car already has the Coyote. We were taking about a swap. A Coyote swap is more money than modding a 3V. Plus all the electronics hassles and that crap of a manual trans.
#38
Read the whole thread .... LOL .... all those 1/4 mile ETs and MPH numbers ain't what makes a car a pleasure to drive. What makes the car a true pleasure is the "feel". It's all purely subjective then. Things that can affect that feel often are not so easily measured by a stop watch or have anything to do with trap speeds.
#39
↑↑↑ So true.
Quarter mile stats are irrelevant to any street driving that isn't a street race.
And not the be-all, end-all to running decent lap times on a road course either (where high-speed high-intensity driving belongs). 110-ish mph in a straight line for a stock 5.0 S197 . . . (insert big yawn here) . . . there's at least one turn at Mid-Ohio that I drive through faster than that and another at NJMP where I'm getting close to that speed at the track-out cone.
Later edit - doesn't look like OP has ever checked back. Joined, posted, and went MIA all in the same day.
Norm
Quarter mile stats are irrelevant to any street driving that isn't a street race.
And not the be-all, end-all to running decent lap times on a road course either (where high-speed high-intensity driving belongs). 110-ish mph in a straight line for a stock 5.0 S197 . . . (insert big yawn here) . . . there's at least one turn at Mid-Ohio that I drive through faster than that and another at NJMP where I'm getting close to that speed at the track-out cone.
Later edit - doesn't look like OP has ever checked back. Joined, posted, and went MIA all in the same day.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 11-27-2016 at 10:41 AM.
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