headlights dim/flicker after new stereo install.
#1
headlights dim/flicker after new stereo install.
I just installed a Pioneer DEH-P5000UB stereo last weekend, and I will admit it really woke the Shaker 1000 system up........sounds great compared to stock. However, if I have the volume cranked up, I notice the headlights flicker and dim and little when the bass hits, they don't completely flick on and off, just a noticeble dimming. Would a compacitor solve the problem? Maybe look at getting a new battery or alternator? I'm just not sure what's going on, and I''m far from an electrical engineer.
I used the PAC wiring harness that Crutchfield sells, relatively easy and a self explanatory install.
I used the PAC wiring harness that Crutchfield sells, relatively easy and a self explanatory install.
#3
cap will help, but mine still did it after the cap so I had to put in a yellow top optima for my system... come to think of it I took my car in for the airbag up date and they told me I had a bad alt so they replaced it to... try the cap first then the battery if that doesnt do it alt time!
#4
6th Gear Member
I assume this occurs at or near idle. Your alternator can't keep up with the demand and your battery probably isn't quite up to snuff to pick up where the alternator is falling short. Adding a new or even a larger capacity battery is only a temporary fix. Have your alternator load tested but you may want to consider a higher output replacement alternator. A capacitor might help but again, I don't think that's the permanent fix. It's good that we don't see UDP's in your sig since they would add to the problem.
#5
I does it worse at idle, but it also does it driving at 45 mph, haven't tried freeway speeds yet.
Negative on the UDP's.......don't have them.
Autozone should be able to check the alternator load correct?
Are there H/O alternator's available for our cars?
Negative on the UDP's.......don't have them.
Autozone should be able to check the alternator load correct?
Are there H/O alternator's available for our cars?
#6
A cap is just a bandaid, and is really not a good investment. You might try the big 3 upgrade. here's a link to that if you don't know what that is. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1
If that doesn't help, then you'll move onto a higher amperage producing alternator and/or a battery equipped for higher current draw, such as an optima yellow top. These are very costly though, and are really only necessary for high powered a/v systems and other high drain electronics, and I don't think the factory shaker 1000 would qualify as that.
If that doesn't help, then you'll move onto a higher amperage producing alternator and/or a battery equipped for higher current draw, such as an optima yellow top. These are very costly though, and are really only necessary for high powered a/v systems and other high drain electronics, and I don't think the factory shaker 1000 would qualify as that.
#7
What I meant by that last part is I'm not discouraging you from upgrading your electrical system by any means, in fact I think it's worthwhile, but the dimming lights don't bother some people enough to warrant spending that large sum of money. The issue of dimming lights after installing an aftermarket stereo is actually very common.
yes, autozone or advance or o'reilly's or whatever your preferred local parts shop will be able to test your alternator. I'm sure that high amp. alternators are being produced for the S197, but I personally don't know where to purchase one, hopefully someone who does will chime in.
yes, autozone or advance or o'reilly's or whatever your preferred local parts shop will be able to test your alternator. I'm sure that high amp. alternators are being produced for the S197, but I personally don't know where to purchase one, hopefully someone who does will chime in.
Last edited by tire31539; 10-22-2008 at 11:39 PM.
#8
A cap is just a bandaid, and is really not a good investment. You might try the big 3 upgrade. here's a link to that if you don't know what that is. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1
If that doesn't help, then you'll move onto a higher amperage producing alternator and/or a battery equipped for higher current draw, such as an optima yellow top. These are very costly though, and are really only necessary for high powered a/v systems and other high drain electronics, and I don't think the factory shaker 1000 would qualify as that.
If that doesn't help, then you'll move onto a higher amperage producing alternator and/or a battery equipped for higher current draw, such as an optima yellow top. These are very costly though, and are really only necessary for high powered a/v systems and other high drain electronics, and I don't think the factory shaker 1000 would qualify as that.
Upgrade the following
Positive battery cable to alternator positive
Engine ground to Chassis ground
Chassis Ground to Battery Ground. Use the minimum of 4ga in addition to the stock ground.
If this doesn't help
You need to upgrade to a yellowtop or kinetik battery.
If you are still having issue's you need a High amp alt. 200 minimum. www.excessiveamperage.com i believe makes good ones. Theres other companies just depends on the pricing. but battery and big 3 like reccomend. Alt would cost you like 400$