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2000 3.8L vibration-shaking while under acceleration
Hey guys, my girlfriend has a 2000 V6 auto and it recently started having some issues. When you either first accelerate in drive and in reverse (gradually, not fast), and when accelerating from 40 to 55 the car starts shaking pretty bad. Almost acts like a cylinder misfire but its not as violent and the engine doesn't cut out at all. it just starts shaking bad. This does not happen if you accelerate quickly.
Recently, she had a plug wire fall on the header and melt causing a misfire. was towed to a local shop and replaced. the shop forgot to put clips in to secure the plug wire and a few weeks later it started to happen again so I looked at it, taped the plug wire with electrical tape and zip tied it, it went back to the shop to get fixed the right way. no issues, no this.
Anyone have this issue? I am hoping that something didn't get bent with previous misfires. But it only happens from 40-55.
Thanks
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Mods:
Sniper Tune
Heads, Cam, Stroke, Port n Polish, 3 Angle Valve job (courtesy of the last owner)
Spec Stage 3 Clutch and Aluminum Flywheel
MAC O/R H-Pipe and MAC Flow-Paths(do your self a favor and DON'T GET FLOWMASTER 40'S!)
3 Inch Drop
AM Cold Air Intake
NGK Iridium IX (TR6IX) Plugs, Performance Wires
1500+ Watt Stereo- JVC,Kicker,Infinity
Is an engine problem, not tires. There is definite power loss under acceleration and at some points it almost seems like its goign to stall, but there are no misfires. My guess at this point is a dead coil pack or valve cover issue. There was a guy how got on here just because of this problem then he said he fixed it and disappeared. I tried emailing him to see if that could be an issue. From what I recall a few weeks ago the spark plugs werent dirty but I need to check them again.
First I'd say check your mounts, motor and trans. Then if they are fine start checking the engine to make sure it's running right. Usually with problems like this the best way to solve it is to go by systematically and check all the systems required for the engine to run(excluding compression for the moment because that means major engine problems). Starting with air, clean your mass airflow meter, check filter, and make sure intake is unobstructed.
Then go to the fuel, check the pressure at the rail, the test port is on the front of the rail on the driver side under the black pressure sensor. If that checks out it's time to run some cleaner through the fuel system in case some injectors are partially clogged. If the pressure DOES NOT check out to spec replace fuel filter and if it still is not right replace the fuel pump.
The last part would be spark. Start at the block with this one pull all the spark plugs and wires and change them out, they can be bad but not look bad. Note the condition of the rear 2 plugs on the driver and passenger side. If they are fouled black then it's the valve cover problem. If you got a good enough multi meter you can test the coil pack for voltage out put but not many people do, so it may be time to just replace it.
That should give you a good area for starters and hopefully you can find whats causing you problems.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by fordforlife0225
dude you are the yoda of subs
Mods:
Sniper Tune
Heads, Cam, Stroke, Port n Polish, 3 Angle Valve job (courtesy of the last owner)
Spec Stage 3 Clutch and Aluminum Flywheel
MAC O/R H-Pipe and MAC Flow-Paths(do your self a favor and DON'T GET FLOWMASTER 40'S!)
3 Inch Drop
AM Cold Air Intake
NGK Iridium IX (TR6IX) Plugs, Performance Wires
1500+ Watt Stereo- JVC,Kicker,Infinity
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