Hidden/cool features on 2005-2009 Mustangs...
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 139
Great info guys 
I have leather seats... and no seat belt strap thingy for me(they are Roush seats though, so that could be why) but I am curious as to why others do or do not have it(included in a option or something)?...weird....I do have the seat belt "extender/arm", and they are the best, by far imo
**Question: With OUT MyColor, my gas light will not turn red when low on fuel; correct? Does that extra gallon start when the yellow gas light comes on for the 4-gauge cluster?**
Not really sure if this has been mentioned or not....The grocery bag clips in the trunk (I kinda giggled when someone first told me about them), but I have found them extremely useful....I just "twist/spin" the plastic grocery bag handles, put them on the clips, and surprisingly they stay in place when I get home
Anyways, I digress....but awesome info everyone! keep em' coming!....
I have leather seats... and no seat belt strap thingy for me(they are Roush seats though, so that could be why) but I am curious as to why others do or do not have it(included in a option or something)?...weird....I do have the seat belt "extender/arm", and they are the best, by far imo
**Question: With OUT MyColor, my gas light will not turn red when low on fuel; correct? Does that extra gallon start when the yellow gas light comes on for the 4-gauge cluster?**
Not really sure if this has been mentioned or not....The grocery bag clips in the trunk (I kinda giggled when someone first told me about them), but I have found them extremely useful....I just "twist/spin" the plastic grocery bag handles, put them on the clips, and surprisingly they stay in place when I get home
Anyways, I digress....but awesome info everyone! keep em' coming!....
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,495
From: California
Great info guys
I have leather seats... and no seat belt strap thingy for me(they are Roush seats though, so that could be why) but I am curious as to why others do or do not have it(included in a option or something)?...weird....I do have the seat belt "extender/arm", and they are the best, by far imo
**Question: With OUT MyColor, my gas light will not turn red when low on fuel; correct? Does that extra gallon start when the yellow gas light comes on for the 4-gauge cluster?**
Not really sure if this has been mentioned or not....The grocery bag clips in the trunk (I kinda giggled when someone first told me about them), but I have found them extremely useful....I just "twist/spin" the plastic grocery bag handles, put them on the clips, and surprisingly they stay in place when I get home
Anyways, I digress....but awesome info everyone! keep em' coming!....
I have leather seats... and no seat belt strap thingy for me(they are Roush seats though, so that could be why) but I am curious as to why others do or do not have it(included in a option or something)?...weird....I do have the seat belt "extender/arm", and they are the best, by far imo
**Question: With OUT MyColor, my gas light will not turn red when low on fuel; correct? Does that extra gallon start when the yellow gas light comes on for the 4-gauge cluster?**
Not really sure if this has been mentioned or not....The grocery bag clips in the trunk (I kinda giggled when someone first told me about them), but I have found them extremely useful....I just "twist/spin" the plastic grocery bag handles, put them on the clips, and surprisingly they stay in place when I get home
Anyways, I digress....but awesome info everyone! keep em' coming!....
What's the deal with the grocery bag clips? I never heard of that one. Could you please describe it a bit more or post a photo?
4th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,834
From: Pacific Palisades, CA
where are the grocery tabs in the trunk? i hate going to the supermarket in my car and have resorted to just seatbelted my bags (paper and plastic together) in the backseats of my car to keep them in place. if i put them in the trunk, it goes everywhere and out of the bag.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 314
From: michigan
hahaha after reading this i used the hook yesterday.
Cut & Paste Expert
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 13,322
From: NW Arkansas
15 what? 
Gallons or miles?
And if miles, how do you know?
Do you go ahead and drive the 15 miles
after it turns red and run out of fuel to
confirm this?
Only down from the RKE fob. 
I did it with a PLC and some custom logic.
One push of the RKE unlock and the drivers door
unlocks.
Second push within 2 seconds and the drivers door unlocks
and the passengers side door unlocks as well. All OEM functions.
But a third press of the unlock button within 3 seconds of the first
press and the windows go down automatically.
I originally did it with the trunk release button to put them up
if they were down parked in the driveway and it started to rain.
The original post:
Here is how its done on an 07:
The motors are smart motors with the control modules for
UP/DOWN contained within the door panels. The
motor/modules are supplied 12V constant (LiteBlue C518)
along with a DACC or Accessory Delay power. You must
supply the modules 12V on the DACC wire when you
want the windows to be able to move, This is done either
with the alarm module 12V arming output or an off-delay relay.
The thought on this is to supply the DACC 12V requirement
for the windows to be able to move when you want them
to move (when the alarm is first armed). Either the alarm can
meet this requirement in the form of a timed output when first
armed of the required time needed to allow the windows to roll
up completely from the fully down position. Or a pulsed
output from the alarm when arming to trigger an off-delay
relay set to the required time. The colors of the DACC wires
are Red/LiteBlue for both the left and right motor/modules.
A diode should be used to prevent backfeeding of other
DACC controlled accessories in the vehicle. This is
connected at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire. This requires
running a single wire from the drivers side door where the
relays are located to the SJB C2280G, the only oval connector
on the rear of the SJB.
The next requirement that needs to be met is the UP
and AUTO inputs to the modules. The UP is made normally
when the OEM switch is lifted to the first position making
the UP input and then the AUTO input is made in the second
position while maintaining the UP input. This can be
accomplished with a 4PDT relay. Hook the first set of NO
contacts of the relay to the UP module input (left side - White/Black )
and the other connection goes to 12V DACC connection to make
the relay sourcing. Then hook up the second set of contacts to the
AUTO module input (left side - Violet/LiteGreen) and the other
connection to 12V DACC connection to make it sourcing also.
The same needs to be done for the other side. (UP right side -
White/Yellow AUTO right side - Violet/LiteBlue). All the wires
can be accessed in the drivers door via C504 at the OEM power
window switch. 2 DPDT relays can also be used in place of the
4PDT relay if you cannot find one. Just hook the coils in parallel
and be sure to use a diode accross the coil for PIV protection.
Constant 12V can be obtained from the LiteBlue wire on C518
on the left front motor/module.
Now the coils of the relays need to be properly pulsed at arming.
If the alarm unit supplies a timed output of the proper amount
to allow the windows to roll up from the fully down position
then a one-shot relay needs to be used to activate the UP/AUTO
relay(s) for about 1 second upon arming. Then the alarm unit
continues to supply power on the DACC long enough to
allow the windows to roll up.
Or if all you have is a short pulsed output at arming,
an off-delay relay will need to be used to provide the DACC
12V requirement for the needed time to roll the windows up and
the pulsed output of the alarm would allow the connection
to the UP/AUTO relay(s) directly from the alarm to fulfill that
requirement without the need for any additional timing device.
Another thought is an inhibit for when the ignition switch
is on to prevent no warning accidental auto window roll up.
I would want some type of OH S#&T EMERGENCY STOP
button.
I verified operation of the above mod by using two off-delay
relays with one being set to the time required to allow the
windows to roll up from the fully down position and the second
one being a 4PDT set to a 1 second pulse to mimic the UP
and AUTO inputs to the left/right motor/modules. I used a diode
at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire to keep other OEM
accessories hooked to the DACC wire from being powered
by my circuit. I then hooked up the inputs of the delay relays
to the trunk release output of the SmartJunctionBox and now
I can roll up my windows with the trunk release button on my
remote. Hmmm. 1 press = UP and 2 quick presses = DOWN?
I will be thinking about the circuit needed to do this. The addition
of yet another relay breaks the connection between the timer relays
and the trunk release output of the SJB preventing the rolling
up of the windows while the ignition is on. I should have just
used a 12V PLC and whipped up some logic for proper operation.
Thanks for making me think about this one. I never would have
whipped up the circuit without being questioned:
How do you get your windows to roll......
It can be done but its not for the weak at heart.
Gallons or miles?
And if miles, how do you know?
Do you go ahead and drive the 15 miles
after it turns red and run out of fuel to
confirm this?
I did it with a PLC and some custom logic.
One push of the RKE unlock and the drivers door
unlocks.
Second push within 2 seconds and the drivers door unlocks
and the passengers side door unlocks as well. All OEM functions.
But a third press of the unlock button within 3 seconds of the first
press and the windows go down automatically.
I originally did it with the trunk release button to put them up
if they were down parked in the driveway and it started to rain.
The original post:
Here is how its done on an 07:
The motors are smart motors with the control modules for
UP/DOWN contained within the door panels. The
motor/modules are supplied 12V constant (LiteBlue C518)
along with a DACC or Accessory Delay power. You must
supply the modules 12V on the DACC wire when you
want the windows to be able to move, This is done either
with the alarm module 12V arming output or an off-delay relay.
The thought on this is to supply the DACC 12V requirement
for the windows to be able to move when you want them
to move (when the alarm is first armed). Either the alarm can
meet this requirement in the form of a timed output when first
armed of the required time needed to allow the windows to roll
up completely from the fully down position. Or a pulsed
output from the alarm when arming to trigger an off-delay
relay set to the required time. The colors of the DACC wires
are Red/LiteBlue for both the left and right motor/modules.
A diode should be used to prevent backfeeding of other
DACC controlled accessories in the vehicle. This is
connected at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire. This requires
running a single wire from the drivers side door where the
relays are located to the SJB C2280G, the only oval connector
on the rear of the SJB.
The next requirement that needs to be met is the UP
and AUTO inputs to the modules. The UP is made normally
when the OEM switch is lifted to the first position making
the UP input and then the AUTO input is made in the second
position while maintaining the UP input. This can be
accomplished with a 4PDT relay. Hook the first set of NO
contacts of the relay to the UP module input (left side - White/Black )
and the other connection goes to 12V DACC connection to make
the relay sourcing. Then hook up the second set of contacts to the
AUTO module input (left side - Violet/LiteGreen) and the other
connection to 12V DACC connection to make it sourcing also.
The same needs to be done for the other side. (UP right side -
White/Yellow AUTO right side - Violet/LiteBlue). All the wires
can be accessed in the drivers door via C504 at the OEM power
window switch. 2 DPDT relays can also be used in place of the
4PDT relay if you cannot find one. Just hook the coils in parallel
and be sure to use a diode accross the coil for PIV protection.
Constant 12V can be obtained from the LiteBlue wire on C518
on the left front motor/module.
Now the coils of the relays need to be properly pulsed at arming.
If the alarm unit supplies a timed output of the proper amount
to allow the windows to roll up from the fully down position
then a one-shot relay needs to be used to activate the UP/AUTO
relay(s) for about 1 second upon arming. Then the alarm unit
continues to supply power on the DACC long enough to
allow the windows to roll up.
Or if all you have is a short pulsed output at arming,
an off-delay relay will need to be used to provide the DACC
12V requirement for the needed time to roll the windows up and
the pulsed output of the alarm would allow the connection
to the UP/AUTO relay(s) directly from the alarm to fulfill that
requirement without the need for any additional timing device.
Another thought is an inhibit for when the ignition switch
is on to prevent no warning accidental auto window roll up.
I would want some type of OH S#&T EMERGENCY STOP
button.
I verified operation of the above mod by using two off-delay
relays with one being set to the time required to allow the
windows to roll up from the fully down position and the second
one being a 4PDT set to a 1 second pulse to mimic the UP
and AUTO inputs to the left/right motor/modules. I used a diode
at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire to keep other OEM
accessories hooked to the DACC wire from being powered
by my circuit. I then hooked up the inputs of the delay relays
to the trunk release output of the SmartJunctionBox and now
I can roll up my windows with the trunk release button on my
remote. Hmmm. 1 press = UP and 2 quick presses = DOWN?
I will be thinking about the circuit needed to do this. The addition
of yet another relay breaks the connection between the timer relays
and the trunk release output of the SJB preventing the rolling
up of the windows while the ignition is on. I should have just
used a 12V PLC and whipped up some logic for proper operation.
Thanks for making me think about this one. I never would have
whipped up the circuit without being questioned:
How do you get your windows to roll......
It can be done but its not for the weak at heart.
Last edited by 157dB; May 20, 2009 at 10:17 AM.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 542
From: Texas
Quote 157db
NON PUMKIN JACKER
vasman "I have LED tail lights. They use the standard OEM harness.
Do you think they work with the sequential headlights? Has anyone tried it?"
Unquote
May be this windows thingy can work with my sequential headlights??.... hahahha
Just noticed the quote...
NON PUMKIN JACKER
vasman "I have LED tail lights. They use the standard OEM harness.
Do you think they work with the sequential headlights? Has anyone tried it?"
Unquote
May be this windows thingy can work with my sequential headlights??.... hahahha
Just noticed the quote...
Where the heck is it? Does it look like a regular hook?