Vacuum lines.. Plural.. Do you understand how the vacuum in your engine controls other functions of the car? The air rushing through the intake into the engine creates a so called vacuum (low pressure).. This vacuum controls several other functions of the car.. For instance the fuel pressure regulator. When vacuum is greatest (at idle, because throttle blade is closed creating low pressure) the regulator doesn't allow as much fuel through.. As opposed to full throttle (increased pressure/less vacuum) the pressure regulator is wide open letting more fuel through.. You should have vacuum lines run off of the manifold vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator (controls fuel pressure), Egr valve (If still in use), and the emissions stuff on the rear passenger side of engine bay.. Manifold vacuum should also be hooked up to the black plastic piece on the drivers side firewall (controls brake booster, cruise control, and A/C functions).. There might be a couple of other lines also, its been so long since i have messed with the stock intake and vacuum lines.
More clear or muddier?
And also when you torque a bolt that means that you have to tighten the bolts to a certain torque rating which is measure in foot pounds (ft/lbs). Means how much force is applied when tightening the bolt. Torque sequence is where you tighten bolts to a certain ft/lbs, but in a certain order (sequence).. You do this so that you do not warp the mating surfaces of the intake and cause vacuum to leak from the seal.. Any vacuum leak is un-metered air entering the engine... Which is bad.. The MAF measures air intake and determines how much fuel the injectors should squirt out. When un-metered air enters an engine (vacuum leak), it leans out the fuel mixture because that air is not being accounted for by the MAF..
That make sense??
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1991 GT with GT-40P heads, Polished typhoon upper and lower, E-cam, 1.6 rr's, Trick flow valve springs, BBK shorties, 70mm TB and EGR,70mm mass air, 190lph pump, BBK regulator (42psi) MSD wires and coil.
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