If the warning light on the instrument cluster comes on when the key is turned on and goes back off after the car is running, then the sending unit and light is functioning.

 

from everything you are describing, I think valve issue is most likely problem. I had same prob on a 69 fastback with 302 I had only mine only made ticking sound on cold start and went away after a few mintutes. Can be as simple as an adjustment or something bent/warped/cracked that needs repplacement. I'd suggest you visit a shop you trust and let them listen.

 

My '67 has a 302 from a '71 and it also developed the ticking noise. I hated that noise; reminded me of that 'heart beat af America' slogan a few years back.

The long screw driver really works. I have an old valve cover with a 1.25" wide opening cut the full length to give access to the valves/rockers while the engine is running. Just bolted it on and used the screw driver to listen for which rocker was associated with the noise. As I went thru ALL them, I identified two which sounded louder than the rest. Make sure in your diagnosis, cause the next step is to pull the intake and replace a lift. I purchased two new lifters ($3.68ea) and installed and no more noise.

This vintage small block has no valve adjustment. The nut which holds the rocker in place is taken all the way to bottom and that's it, so one might have worked loose (not common).

Good luck, the noise will probably get louder.

 

Ooops, double post

 

Hello:

I did a little more investigation regarding the mysterious ticking noise. As usual, with the engine just running in the drive way, no noise. Revving the engine, no noise. Backing the car out, no noise. Put the car in drive, and go in 1st gear around a parking lot, I get the noise within 50 yards. The noise continues after I park the car. With the hood up, the sound seems to be coming from around the back of the engine. I put a metal tube to my ear, and put the other end at various places on the valve covers, and it all sounded the same, with the noise no more prominent than without the tube. Also, the sound is quite a bit louder when I put my head on the ground just under one of the doors. Another clue (or possible red herring) is gray smoke from the exhausts where the exhaust pipes meet under and just aft of the transmission. I know I have a slow leak from the transmission somewhere, judging from the spots on the garage floor, so the smoke may just be some transmission fluid that dropped onto the exhaust pipes getting hot. Also, if there is an exhaust leak there causing the noise, then I would expect to get the noise with the engine just idling or revving. If the leak only happens when things get hot, then the noise shouldn't suddenly go away when driving down the highway. I just checked the transmission fluid level, and it's fine, perhaps a little too high. So, I'm starting to suspect something in the transmission itself, with an exhaust leak being a second possibility.

Cheers
Mike Connelley

 

Another way to check for an exhaust leak is to put the sole of your shoe against the tail pipe, doing your best to seal it off. After a few seconds the pressure will build up and if you have an exhaust leak you will hear a FHHT-FHHT-FHHT noise coming from the leak.
It takes a little practice to really seal the pipe with your foot, and if you have duals you'll need a friend to block the other pipe unless you're known as "Stretch."


FHHT-FHHT-FHHT.

 

A speedometer cable that is slipping will make a clicking noise. Similar symptoms.

 

sounds like a lifter, really hard to tell without listening to it, but my 70 mustang and 90 f150 would do that sometimes so i add risloine to the oil and hasnt ever done it since.

 

Since you say it's coming from the bellhousing area, I'd almost bet you have a broken flex plate. That can sound just like a lfter ticking and even a rod knocking.

 

When's the last time it was tuned up? It may be a bad plug or wire.