Engine Swap Help needed '70 302 to '95 302
06-13-2010, 02:46 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 13
Engine Swap Help needed '70 302 to '95 302
I have a '70 Mustang automatic that came with a 302 that has a broken rod. I've purchased a '95 302 that was removed new at the dealer. The fuel injection was removed, new intake added & carb needed. This is the '95 302 & not the 5.0. The only engine I've ever swapped out was a VW bug over 20 years ago. I have an engine puller & some basic tools. Please give me some direction. Thanks,
06-13-2010, 11:09 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 13
If I can improve gas mileage and keep or add horsepower then I would be happy to change the transmission. It's an automatic. I'm completely new to this. All I know is that I've had the same '70 convertible for almost 30 years & I would like to get it running again. I had all new brakes, lines, suspension & some other items redone about 10 years ago. I'm willing to learn & do the work with my children I just need some advice & direction. My goal is a nice driver that we can use, gets decent gas mileage & moves pretty well. I don't need it to be the fastest thing on the street, it just needs to be a nice '70 Mustang that is reliable & get's better than the old 10 mpg average.
06-14-2010, 07:04 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 2,243
They are both the same motor and same engine displacement.
5.0 is the modern way of saying 302 CI for the newer cars....
5.0 is measured in liters, 302 is measured in cubic inch's, they are both the same size motor and they are just a different way of saying the same thing. Just like a 4.6 motor is a 281 CI, and a 5.7 Chevy is a 350 CI, etc.
Lynn
5.0 is the modern way of saying 302 CI for the newer cars....
5.0 is measured in liters, 302 is measured in cubic inch's, they are both the same size motor and they are just a different way of saying the same thing. Just like a 4.6 motor is a 281 CI, and a 5.7 Chevy is a 350 CI, etc.
Lynn
Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 06-14-2010 at 07:08 PM.
06-14-2010, 10:48 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 8,162
This will help you http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Engine.htm just ignore the efi stuff on it.All you really gotta do is change the oil pan and pickup to front sump.
06-15-2010, 04:11 PM
#6
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 574
I'm assuming you are using your original '70 transmission?
The easiest way to get up and running would be to pull your original motor, put all brackets and accessories from the '70 motor onto the '95 (get rid of the serpentine stuff), and stuff the '95 back in. Both are 302 engines and I believe everything will swap from one to the other (even the intake, exhaust, carb). You can also reuse your oil pan.
Either way, the first thing you need to do is remove the original motor:
1. disconnect and remove battery
2. drain oil
3. remove fan
4. drain radiator, disconnect transmission lines, remove radiator
5. disconnect exhaust
6. disconnect ground strap (there's a wire going from your engine to the frame somewhere)
7. disconnect heater hoses
8. remove transmission inspection plate and remove 4 bolts that attach torque converter to flywheel.
9. disconnect fuel line from fuel pump
10. if you have power steering, remove the pump
11. remove the alternator
12. if you have a/c, disconnect the compressor from brackets and set it out of the way
13. disconnect and remove carb and linkage
14. remove the brake booster vacuum line
15. disconnect wiring harness (oil pressure, temp, coil)
16. remove bolts going through motor mounts (one on each mount)
17. pull the motor
Some people (me included) prefer to pull the engine and transmission together. To do that:
1. skip step 8 from above.
2. disconnect drive shaft from differential. Pull the driveshaft out of the transmission.
3. disconnect speedometer cable.
4. if you don't drain the transmission, fluid will leak out of the speedometer cable hole and the back of the transmission - plug those or drain the transmission.
5. remove the 2 nuts that connect the transmission mount to the crossmember.
6. disconnect and remove the transmission crossmember.
7. disconnect the wire and vacuum hose going to the transmission.
The transmission can now come out with the motor.
I'm probably forgetting something important. Just make sure no wires are going to get yanked on when the engine comes out.
The easiest way to get up and running would be to pull your original motor, put all brackets and accessories from the '70 motor onto the '95 (get rid of the serpentine stuff), and stuff the '95 back in. Both are 302 engines and I believe everything will swap from one to the other (even the intake, exhaust, carb). You can also reuse your oil pan.
Either way, the first thing you need to do is remove the original motor:
1. disconnect and remove battery
2. drain oil
3. remove fan
4. drain radiator, disconnect transmission lines, remove radiator
5. disconnect exhaust
6. disconnect ground strap (there's a wire going from your engine to the frame somewhere)
7. disconnect heater hoses
8. remove transmission inspection plate and remove 4 bolts that attach torque converter to flywheel.
9. disconnect fuel line from fuel pump
10. if you have power steering, remove the pump
11. remove the alternator
12. if you have a/c, disconnect the compressor from brackets and set it out of the way
13. disconnect and remove carb and linkage
14. remove the brake booster vacuum line
15. disconnect wiring harness (oil pressure, temp, coil)
16. remove bolts going through motor mounts (one on each mount)
17. pull the motor
Some people (me included) prefer to pull the engine and transmission together. To do that:
1. skip step 8 from above.
2. disconnect drive shaft from differential. Pull the driveshaft out of the transmission.
3. disconnect speedometer cable.
4. if you don't drain the transmission, fluid will leak out of the speedometer cable hole and the back of the transmission - plug those or drain the transmission.
5. remove the 2 nuts that connect the transmission mount to the crossmember.
6. disconnect and remove the transmission crossmember.
7. disconnect the wire and vacuum hose going to the transmission.
The transmission can now come out with the motor.
I'm probably forgetting something important. Just make sure no wires are going to get yanked on when the engine comes out.
06-15-2010, 04:13 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 461
What trans do you plan on running? C4
You will need to look at your harmonic balancer and flexplate to make sure it is the correct 50oz harmonic balancer and a 50oz flexplate
Are you goint to keep the serpentine belt set-up? No?
The water pump on the late model is a reverse rotation. You will need to replace waterpump and use early model brackets, pullies, oil pan and oil pickup. The dipstick tube also needs to be moved to the other side of the engine, there is info on the net on how to do that.
You will need to look at your harmonic balancer and flexplate to make sure it is the correct 50oz harmonic balancer and a 50oz flexplate
Are you goint to keep the serpentine belt set-up? No?
The water pump on the late model is a reverse rotation. You will need to replace waterpump and use early model brackets, pullies, oil pan and oil pickup. The dipstick tube also needs to be moved to the other side of the engine, there is info on the net on how to do that.
Last edited by GT350R Klone; 06-15-2010 at 04:40 PM.
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