adr3naline

Okay, I've read a bunch of posts from people suggesting that my problem may be my NSS, so they suggest to adjust it. How do you adjust it?

Should it just rotate around the center bolt? By loosening it could it swing around to adjust?

Also, my gear shift post inside the car seems to be loose, so I dig down under the gear indicator to try and tighten it down and the nut is tight, but the whole assembly is loose. Should this part be tight against side wall of that compartment?

Thanks!

Randys66gt

There are two 7/16" bolts holding the switch on the C-4. Loosen the 2 bolts, (this part I don't remember what size drill) in the center of the switch is a hole, stick the drill bit into the hole which aligns it and then tighten the 2 bolts. Haven't worked at B&M in over 15 years and my memory if kinda sometimers if you know what I mean. Hope I helped.

adr3naline

I'm at a loss! I have no idea what's happening here. I've aligned the hole (I think) = I loosened those two screws, and put a drill bit in, and I noticed where it wouldn't go in all the way, and when it would... so I tightened it up where it goes in all the way while in neutral. Still nothing!

I had my starter tested and it passed. I jumped my solenoid switch, and it started to start = good. Battery is fine.

What's next to test? It worked fine, then I stopped to fill up gas and hasn't started back up yet... any ideas?

2+2GT

Should it just rotate around the center bolt? By loosening it could it swing around to adjust?
Yep. Connect an ohmmeter or test light to the switch. Put the trans in neutral. Loosen the two bolts, and rotate the switch until the ohmmeter indicates a start circuit. Tighten the bolts.

Also, my gear shift post inside the car seems to be loose, so I dig down under the gear indicator to try and tighten it down and the nut is tight, but the whole assembly is loose. Should this part be tight against side wall of that compartment?

The shift lever should be quite firm. This repair is expensive, your cost for parts will be $5. Remove the shift ****, bezel, and lever. Go under the car, and pull the lower lever out. Clean whatever tiny pieces remain of the old bushings off of the shaft and out of the sleeve in the shifter body. Install the new bushings, with plenty of white lithium grease. Reinstall the lower lever, upper (chrome) lever, bezel, and ****. Try out the shifter. Say "Oh my goodness, what a difference!"

Do the shift lever before you do the switch.

adr3naline

Well, I've tightened up my shift lever... and I did say, "Oh my goodness, what a difference!", but I still can't get my engine to turn over (and I don't have an ohmmeter).

So, let's say my NSS is good... what other possibilities would there be to not allow the car to turn over? Remember: battery's good, replaced solenoid switch, checked starter...

edit: oh, I also have oil leaking from my transmission where the NSS connects.... so I removed it, cleaned it up hoping that it maybe the problem. So, that part that connects to the trans... is there some sort of gasket around it to prevent oil leak?

jlg2002

You need a test light at a minimum to see if your ignition switch start signal is getting to the starter relay's S terminal. You can also jumper the battery terminal to the S terminal of the starter relay and if it cranks, those parts (battery, relay and starter) are good. from there you have to get diagnostic tools like a test light or DVM and a wiring diagram to go further.jlg

2+2GT

True. If you are getting no power to the NSS, check at the switch. Etc. Just work your way upstream or downstream until you find something that's not working. Even a minor amount of corrosion in the firewall plug will prevent starting.

adr3naline

Okay... I had a friend come over so I could test my NSS power, and that's what it was! I couldn't afford a new one yet, so for now I've removed it and have bypassed it. It was good to hear the engine start up again.

Thanks for all the direction, I needed it!

2+2GT

No, there is a seal on the shaft. Cheap, but a pain to install.

adr3naline

so, would it involve removing the transmission to fix, or can I get at it from under my car?