Starting engine that hasn't been run in 10+ years
#1
Starting engine that hasn't been run in 10+ years
Ok, crazy new guy questions again.
Looking to be getting nice this week. I'm working through the order I want to do things and I'm thinking of trying to start her up this week and go from there. So, as of this moment here is what I know.
Radiator is full.
No oil in engine.
No fuel in tank.
No transmission fluid.
No key for ignition.
So, obviously I need to add oil to engine, fluid to the tranny and fuel to the tank.
1: What is the best way to add oil to an engine that sat long enough that the seal dried up enough to drain most if not all oil. Should I pull the valve cover and pour some directly on the rockers and then replace the cover and finish filling? Also, what oil type is used on these?
2: How much fuel should I put in the tank? I haven't looked close enough to see if it has a drain plug in it to get the fuel back out if necessary.
3: How do I try to start without a key, never hotwired a car before
4: What kind of tranny fluid for C4?
Thanks for any and all help as always!
Looking to be getting nice this week. I'm working through the order I want to do things and I'm thinking of trying to start her up this week and go from there. So, as of this moment here is what I know.
Radiator is full.
No oil in engine.
No fuel in tank.
No transmission fluid.
No key for ignition.
So, obviously I need to add oil to engine, fluid to the tranny and fuel to the tank.
1: What is the best way to add oil to an engine that sat long enough that the seal dried up enough to drain most if not all oil. Should I pull the valve cover and pour some directly on the rockers and then replace the cover and finish filling? Also, what oil type is used on these?
2: How much fuel should I put in the tank? I haven't looked close enough to see if it has a drain plug in it to get the fuel back out if necessary.
3: How do I try to start without a key, never hotwired a car before
4: What kind of tranny fluid for C4?
Thanks for any and all help as always!
#2
Put oil in the usual way. Remove the distributor, drive the oil pump shaft counter-clockwise for at least 5 minutes, to fill the oil passages and valve assembly. re-install the distributor, and dry-time. Remove the plugs, and pump a couple of squirts of light top lube, such as Mystery Oil, into the cylinders. Turn the engine 5-10 seconds. Install plugs, and start engine.
#3
Had to rewire my jeep because my ignition cylinder went bad, heres a great video to help you
#3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVpjtWyVc6M
#3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVpjtWyVc6M
#4
I could be wrong on some of this so take it with a grain of salt.
I think old C4 use type FA tranny fluid. Ask your parts guy.
The fuel tank probably has rust in it. Be sure to install new fuel filters. I would do one at the tank and one before the pump.
Your fuel pump is probably shot. They use a rubber diaphragm that can dry out from lack of use.
Your carb should be gone through before starting. I would rebuild it.
Double check your points in the distributor. Confirm you have spark before starting.
For sure prime the oil system with fresh oil the way described above. Install a new oil filter before doing this.
If you had a small electric fuel pump, I would use it to pull fuel from a small gas can to the carb. Be sensible no sense in starting a fire. You may need to dribble a very small amount into the carb throat. Use a cup or straw or syringe.
I think old C4 use type FA tranny fluid. Ask your parts guy.
The fuel tank probably has rust in it. Be sure to install new fuel filters. I would do one at the tank and one before the pump.
Your fuel pump is probably shot. They use a rubber diaphragm that can dry out from lack of use.
Your carb should be gone through before starting. I would rebuild it.
Double check your points in the distributor. Confirm you have spark before starting.
For sure prime the oil system with fresh oil the way described above. Install a new oil filter before doing this.
If you had a small electric fuel pump, I would use it to pull fuel from a small gas can to the carb. Be sensible no sense in starting a fire. You may need to dribble a very small amount into the carb throat. Use a cup or straw or syringe.
#5
Thanks for the help so far guys. For the life of me I can't find anywhere on here or on the net that says what kind of oil to use. 10w 30, 5w 30, etc. What do you other sixers use and why hasn't anyone said a word about this? Seems so common. Thanks again everyone.
#6
I'd start with 10w-30 or 10w-40, depending on the age and condition of the engine.
I'd suggest the carb rebuild and a new fuel pump also, but run the fuel pump input into a 5 gallon gas can instead of using the (probably) rusty and corroded fuel tank and lines. Have a friend around close to the gas can, he/she can grab it and run if you get into problems, thus starving the engine and shutting it down.
Definitely follow 2+2GT's instructions for priming the oil system.
As for the missing key, you're going to eventually have to remove the lock cylinder. You can buy a cheap lock pick set and probably turn it (old locks are probably worn pretty good) enough to get it out of the switch, have a paper clip ready if you get it to turn (CCW) and put in the clip to remove the lock cylinder. Once out, you can use a flat blade screwdriver to manipulate the switch.
The above is what I had to do (except for the key part, but I did that on an early Bronco before) to get mine running, it hadn't been started since 1993.
Good luck and post results.
I'd suggest the carb rebuild and a new fuel pump also, but run the fuel pump input into a 5 gallon gas can instead of using the (probably) rusty and corroded fuel tank and lines. Have a friend around close to the gas can, he/she can grab it and run if you get into problems, thus starving the engine and shutting it down.
Definitely follow 2+2GT's instructions for priming the oil system.
As for the missing key, you're going to eventually have to remove the lock cylinder. You can buy a cheap lock pick set and probably turn it (old locks are probably worn pretty good) enough to get it out of the switch, have a paper clip ready if you get it to turn (CCW) and put in the clip to remove the lock cylinder. Once out, you can use a flat blade screwdriver to manipulate the switch.
The above is what I had to do (except for the key part, but I did that on an early Bronco before) to get mine running, it hadn't been started since 1993.
Good luck and post results.
#8
#9
All you need to do is run a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the ignition coil..Next jump power from the battery cable side of the solonoid to the starter side to make the engine crank over...This is very crude but it will get the engine running..To shut off simply disconnect power to the coil...
#10
If that is what you mean and it doesn't work, can you get a replacement or are they rebuildable?