Understeer question
#1
Understeer question
I have a 2006 V6 with the pony package. Generally, I don't drive too hard, but occasionally I like to take some very hard corners. I have found that my car is pretty capable, but once or twice I have almost gotten into a little trouble with understeer. I would like to try to eliminate any understeer so I don't have to worry about it. I don't have alot of money, and I am not working right now because I hurt my knee, so the less expensive, the better. I tried the search function but not a whole lot came up. So, do you guys have any suggestions for getting rid of understeer?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
There's a lot of ways. Two ways that I can think of right off hand is to increase camber and get adjustable swaybars (stiffen the rear and/or soften the front). Springs and dampers will improve handling overall. Not sure how expensive is too expensive for you, but there's my advice.
#3
"A" way to lessen understeer (not saying it's the best or only) is to increase the stiffness of the rear anti-roll bar or reduce the stiffness of the front bar. You could probably just go with a new rear bar. Sam Strano makes a nice adjustable bar so you could dial in the balance a bit without breaking the bank.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=80&ModelID=5
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=80&ModelID=5
#4
Well I don't know about the adjustable things. I don't know much about tuning or handling characteristics and would honestly prefer something I could slap on my car and not have to think about it again.
#5
How about taking the corner a little slower? Even with the mods offered, the Mustang will most likely understeer eventually at the limit in any case. Far better than modding the car with too much oversteer for the street. Especially if you are limited in experience.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#6
I seem to remember that the V6s back then (06) didn't have a rear sway...true? I bet its an understeering pig. You can get the OEM rear sway off a GT for pennies...there are enough guys around here who have replaced them and would be more than happy to get the old one out of their garage for a few bucks. Post a WTB ad in the classified section of this site.
#7
@nemo
I like to take corners hard. It is fun for me. I enjoy it. That is why I have a Mustang. Because I enjoy driving, lol. If I didn't want to push my car to the limit (and past, in this case), I would buy a Toyota.
@Argo
Actually because I have the pony package I have the GT sway and some other GT suspension part I cannot recall right now. Thanks anyways though.
I like to take corners hard. It is fun for me. I enjoy it. That is why I have a Mustang. Because I enjoy driving, lol. If I didn't want to push my car to the limit (and past, in this case), I would buy a Toyota.
@Argo
Actually because I have the pony package I have the GT sway and some other GT suspension part I cannot recall right now. Thanks anyways though.
#8
Yes, you have most of the GT suspension. Same front sway bar (34mm), very similar springs, and a slightly smaller rear sway bar.
If you want less understeer without spending any money, first be sure your tires are up to recommended pressure, then add about 5# more for the rear. This will help balance the handling to a little more neutral.
If you care about SCCA Classing (G Stock), buy adjustable Koni Sport shocks and adjust the rears stiffer than the fronts. Adjust tire pressure next to suite your driving style.
If you don't care about SCCA classing, add Sam's rear adjustable sway bar, and then tire pressure to match.
Make sense?
If you want less understeer without spending any money, first be sure your tires are up to recommended pressure, then add about 5# more for the rear. This will help balance the handling to a little more neutral.
If you care about SCCA Classing (G Stock), buy adjustable Koni Sport shocks and adjust the rears stiffer than the fronts. Adjust tire pressure next to suite your driving style.
If you don't care about SCCA classing, add Sam's rear adjustable sway bar, and then tire pressure to match.
Make sense?
#9
From where you're at now for cheap - tire pressures and cornering technique (and not necessarily in that order).
Coming into a corner too hot will make you think the car is an agricultural vehicle, because you'll be asking way too much way too quickly from the outside front tire than it can possibly deliver. Slow in, fast out. The fact that you indicate heavy understeer as happening only once or twice rather than as being the normal condition raises this item to the top spot of things to fix. Best news is that the parts cost for this = $0, and it's transferrable to most anything else you'll likely ever drive.
On tire pressures, I'm going to take the other approach and suggest a slightly higher front pressure than sticker and a slightly lower rear pressure than sticker. The intent is to help the front get the car to turn in, and to let the rear run at a slightly higher slip angle without compromising mechanical grip (which you generally want available on corner exit with RWD). I normally run about 4-5 psi higher in the front than in the rear even in normal street driving, ranging maybe from 34f/29r to 35f/31r. The only caveat with lower than sticker rear pressure is that it probably isn't an appropriate setting for more than just short distances when you're carrying heavy rear seat or trunk loads.
I'd also suggest running the front camber a little more negative, assuming that it's somewhere near the OE preferred setting of -0.75° the way it sits. Camber plates or camber-adjustable upper strut mounts, please, and for the way you claim to drive don't even think about any other method.
Norm
Coming into a corner too hot will make you think the car is an agricultural vehicle, because you'll be asking way too much way too quickly from the outside front tire than it can possibly deliver. Slow in, fast out. The fact that you indicate heavy understeer as happening only once or twice rather than as being the normal condition raises this item to the top spot of things to fix. Best news is that the parts cost for this = $0, and it's transferrable to most anything else you'll likely ever drive.
On tire pressures, I'm going to take the other approach and suggest a slightly higher front pressure than sticker and a slightly lower rear pressure than sticker. The intent is to help the front get the car to turn in, and to let the rear run at a slightly higher slip angle without compromising mechanical grip (which you generally want available on corner exit with RWD). I normally run about 4-5 psi higher in the front than in the rear even in normal street driving, ranging maybe from 34f/29r to 35f/31r. The only caveat with lower than sticker rear pressure is that it probably isn't an appropriate setting for more than just short distances when you're carrying heavy rear seat or trunk loads.
I'd also suggest running the front camber a little more negative, assuming that it's somewhere near the OE preferred setting of -0.75° the way it sits. Camber plates or camber-adjustable upper strut mounts, please, and for the way you claim to drive don't even think about any other method.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 05-03-2011 at 07:48 AM.
#10
Well, as far as changing the way I take turns, I understand what you guys are saying. I have read in other places that "Slow in, fast out" is the way to go.
From what you guys are saying maybe I should just get a thicker adjustable rear swaybar and play with tire pressure, along with tweaking how I enter the turn. Is that about right?
Also, I had my eyes on the STR.Ts. Anyone know if they (or how they) will affect cornering?
From what you guys are saying maybe I should just get a thicker adjustable rear swaybar and play with tire pressure, along with tweaking how I enter the turn. Is that about right?
Also, I had my eyes on the STR.Ts. Anyone know if they (or how they) will affect cornering?