Edelbrock Electric Choke Wiring
#1
Edelbrock Electric Choke Wiring
Can anyone give a good location to where I should land these 2 wires. One is red and one is black. Where should I put them to enable the electric choke. Best conditions please.
#2
Black to a good ground, I often use an intake bolt or even the carb stud.
Red goes to a switched ignition source. You aren't supposed to use the coil wire, but I have done it in the past....
Ideally, the red should go back to the "ign" prong on the ignition switch. If you go to the ign switch you SHOULD fuse the circuit.
Red goes to a switched ignition source. You aren't supposed to use the coil wire, but I have done it in the past....
Ideally, the red should go back to the "ign" prong on the ignition switch. If you go to the ign switch you SHOULD fuse the circuit.
#3
edit: dangit... beat to the punch
#6
There are two small poles on the solenoid. One is power from the ignition switch, which is only hot when the ignition switch is in the start position. The other is a feedback which supplies 12v to the coil when the ignition switch is in the start position. When the switch is in the run position, it gets the feedback from the resistor wire, somewhere around 8 or 9v. I use this pole to power a relay which then supplies 12v directly from the battery. You can just buy a generic 12v relay from a parts store, which will come with a diagram. This setup gives me a switched 12v source under the hood for, electric chokes, ignition boxes, or distributors that require 12v.
Or, you can run a wire from the ignition switch under the dash.
On other forums, they recommend using the stator pole on the alternator for the electric choke. This is how Ford did it from the factory when they went to electric chokes. Unfortunately, the stator only supplies about 7v, which is fine if you have an Autolite carburetor that only expects that voltage, but aftermarket carburetors want a full 12v.
Or, you can run a wire from the ignition switch under the dash.
On other forums, they recommend using the stator pole on the alternator for the electric choke. This is how Ford did it from the factory when they went to electric chokes. Unfortunately, the stator only supplies about 7v, which is fine if you have an Autolite carburetor that only expects that voltage, but aftermarket carburetors want a full 12v.
Last edited by The_Dude; 01-25-2012 at 04:36 PM.
#7
Damn. Got the new spark plugs, wires and cap on and hooked up the carb with a lower spacer and got the wiring right. Went to start the car and it has been sitting so long that the battery is dead. I guess I will find out if it all works soon enough.
#10
I installed a new edelbrock intake, new hoses all around the intake and carb, new fuel pump and filter, new spark plugs and wires. It started running like crap after I installed the intake and carb about a year ago. I have since been chasing anything I can to find out why. I did notice that the electric choke does not activate when I try to start the car nor does the lever move at all. Makes me wonder if the problem is the carb. I even used gasket sealer on the intake even though edlebrock did not recommend it. Oh and I have a 1/2" phenolic spacer under the carb.