jfleag61

Hi all! So after finally buying my "project", I got started going over things under the hood. I was told that it has a 289 (swapped from 6cyl) with 302 heads. It has an Edelbrock performer 289 intake, Edelbrock 1403 carb, and an accel 140001 supercoil. Previous owner put in a "performance" cam about 5 years ago...he said he thought it was a 448/472 lift. He only put about 2000 miles on it during the 10 years he had it.

Here is my problem...I don't know exactly how the pump to carb line is SUPPOSED to run. The way it's run now it goes to the driver side fender wall, where there is what looks like some sort of fuel pressure gauge (that has been bypassed). Then it doubles back OVER the oil cap (have to move it out of the way to remove the cap), in front of the carb (so close that every time you press down on the accelerator the carbs linkage pushes against the line, moving it back and forth about 1/2 an inch!), and then it doubles back again into the fuel inlet on the carb. (no fuel filter between pump and carb to the best of my knowledge, there is a section of rubber fuel line connecting to the carb at the point where I THINK there should be a filter).

I have already put an oil filter relocation kit in because there is a fuel pressure regulator that was actually so close the the filter that there was an indentation on the old filter that I took off, and it wouldn't allow me room to put the new filter on.

I have ordered a Haynes manual, but until that comes, I just want to get this fuel line problem corrected.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

frdnut

Do you have any pictures of this mess?...Why do you need fuel pressure gauges and regulators?..Are you running a high pressure pump?...It sounds to me like you need to remove all of this stuff and start from scratch with a new fuel line..It is not hard to bend up a new one to your liking..

jfleag61

My thoughts exactly frdnut!! I have only had the car for about 2 weeks, and with work and all haven't been able to "get into it" too much. It looks like a stock fuel pump, but it's hard to tell what all has been put on it (and taken back off) throughout its life.The guy I bought it from told me the owner before him (the one that did the engine swap) said he was running in the 13's "back in the day". So he may have had a high pressure system on it at that time....and probably a different rear... and carb for that matter. the fuel pressure gauge goes up to like 15, and I know that the 1403 runs at about 6!
I was just curious as to what the "factory" routing was. I'm looking forward to being able to put some time (and money!) into it. I live about an hour away from Carlisle, so I can't wait for the spring swap. I go every year, but this will be the first in a long while that I have a car to shop for. BTW, I like your ride...this is the 2nd 68 I've had. I had to give up the 1st back in the '80's when the family started to grow.

jp1967stang

Ya i would take it all out. Are you running a electric pump of mechanical off the engine. Either way its just steel line all the way to the tank with 2 bits of rubber hose for connecting to the tank and connecting to the mechanical fuel pump. Then steel line up to around the distributor then a bit of rubber into the carb. If your running 15 psi right now your car has to be flooded should only be around 5psi recommended but they say you can run 6 to 7psi. If you not making huge power a stock pump would be fine or an aftermarket one with stock pressure. You dont need all that junk like the regulator or pressure gauge. The tank should have a filter screen on the sending unit. And then put a fuel filter before it goes into the carb after the fuel pump. I think on your carb the fuel in line to the carb is on the passenger side instead of the drivers side so you will have to route you line up to the carb a bit differently but use you best judgement and you should be fine.

frdnut

Does the metal line come through the inner fender in front of the shock tower on the drivers side?..If it was originally a six banger car the metal fuel line came right up inside the engine compartment at the rear inside the frame rail..It needs to go on the outside of the front frame rail and run around to the front side of the shock tower to be safe with the V8 exhaust system...Then it just needs a short piece of rubber line to go from the metal line to the fuel pump..Then bend up a metal line to go from the fuel pump up to the carb where you can join the line to the carb with another short piece of rubber line.

jfleag61

Can't post pics for some reason...but yea, it goes from the pump, up the fender well just in front of the drivers side shock tower, over top of the engine, (against the carb), then a sharp bend into fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb. Don't know why they would choose to run it that way. I would have thought it would have been better to run it BEHIND the engine (like along the firewall) rather than OVER the engine. Oh well...the joys of restoration! Kinda reminds me of how I had to remove 8 layers of wallpaper when we got into restoring our 1929 era house!!

jp1967stang

It should run to the outside of the drivers front rail. Right under the front suspension to infront of the shock tower then into the engine bay through the little circle hole right above the front rail. Its out side the engine bay the whole time tell it connects up with the mech fuel pump.

jp1967stang

This shows it. http://68vert.blogspot.com/2009/07/b...l-to-fire.html be similar to this.

jfleag61

I was wondering what the hole in the shock tower was for...this damn thing is running under the engine on the side of the oil pan to the pump...crazy. I plan on putting it up on jack stands and getting under it for a closer inspection of everything.....just no time this week. (old house issues!)

frdnut

Sounds like he just ran the 6 banger fuel line up inside the engine compartment...Here is a pic of my car..I replaced the line with braided line but its still in the same location..