adjustable panhard bar on lwered stang
#1
adjustable panhard bar on lwered stang
hi peeps.
just noticed on my lowered gt that the rear axle is not sitting dead center.
the rear tires are not even with the rear wings.
ok i realise i need an adjustable panhard bar.
just 2 things
is this one ok?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/05-12-Must...item53ecb62db7
also can it be fitted by me on ramps?
cheers rudi
just noticed on my lowered gt that the rear axle is not sitting dead center.
the rear tires are not even with the rear wings.
ok i realise i need an adjustable panhard bar.
just 2 things
is this one ok?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/05-12-Must...item53ecb62db7
also can it be fitted by me on ramps?
cheers rudi
#2
I would look at a Whiteline Adjustable Panhard Bar they are rock solid. Hopefully you can get those over in the UK that I am not sure of.
I would also check your camber on the front. You may have to get camber bolts to center it back out.
I would also check your camber on the front. You may have to get camber bolts to center it back out.
#7
You don't need adjustable for a little drop unless you have wide tires, then it will be noticeable. Such as 305's which might rub if not centered.
You should also get a Bump Steer (Steada $167) and Cam Bolts ($24) because you lowered your front now the geometry is off on the tire (Cam bolts will flatten out the tire) and Bump Steer will correct the angle of the tie rods.
And a cooler to keep your Lutfisk and Fin Fvodka chilled.
A sword is always loaded.
You should also get a Bump Steer (Steada $167) and Cam Bolts ($24) because you lowered your front now the geometry is off on the tire (Cam bolts will flatten out the tire) and Bump Steer will correct the angle of the tie rods.
And a cooler to keep your Lutfisk and Fin Fvodka chilled.
A sword is always loaded.
#8
You don't need adjustable for a little drop unless you have wide tires, then it will be noticeable. Such as 305's which might rub if not centered.
You should also get a Bump Steer (Steada $167) and Cam Bolts ($24) because you lowered your front now the geometry is off on the tire (Cam bolts will flatten out the tire) and Bump Steer will correct the angle of the tie rods.
And a cooler to keep your Lutfisk and Fin Fvodka chilled.
A sword is always loaded.
You should also get a Bump Steer (Steada $167) and Cam Bolts ($24) because you lowered your front now the geometry is off on the tire (Cam bolts will flatten out the tire) and Bump Steer will correct the angle of the tie rods.
And a cooler to keep your Lutfisk and Fin Fvodka chilled.
A sword is always loaded.
And he said he only lowered the rear. Bumpsteer and cam bolts are irrelevant...
#10
By the blood of ABBA, do not deny your Danish Overlords.
Chill R.H., most anglo Americans call the Netherlands - Holland.
I believe that would be similar to calling America - California.
Do you have to pay a V.A.T. tax on orders plus an import penalty for foreign parts?
Better get the right part the first time.
White-line parts can be tricky with other parts - the WATTS link is $899 for me, probable $10,899.39 for you. but do you know not only is it the best anti sway for the rear end but it will not work with 99% of all the rear sway bars. White-line rear sway bar goes along the under side of the differential while all others go behind the differential.
Sometimes it pays to go with similar sets, like all BMR - LCA, UCA with lowering brackets BMR adjustable Pannhard bar. Eirbach springs, shocks and struts. Some keep their stock shocks and struts then lower with springs and don't get a proper effect.
I'm truly sorry to hear about ABBA breaking-up do you by any chance have the phone numbers for Agnetha or Anni-Frid? I might have a rebound chance.
Later
Chill R.H., most anglo Americans call the Netherlands - Holland.
I believe that would be similar to calling America - California.
Do you have to pay a V.A.T. tax on orders plus an import penalty for foreign parts?
Better get the right part the first time.
White-line parts can be tricky with other parts - the WATTS link is $899 for me, probable $10,899.39 for you. but do you know not only is it the best anti sway for the rear end but it will not work with 99% of all the rear sway bars. White-line rear sway bar goes along the under side of the differential while all others go behind the differential.
Sometimes it pays to go with similar sets, like all BMR - LCA, UCA with lowering brackets BMR adjustable Pannhard bar. Eirbach springs, shocks and struts. Some keep their stock shocks and struts then lower with springs and don't get a proper effect.
I'm truly sorry to hear about ABBA breaking-up do you by any chance have the phone numbers for Agnetha or Anni-Frid? I might have a rebound chance.
Later