Aaron Bridges

Hello I'm new to the thread, so be easy on me guys.

So I performed a full PI Swap on my 1996 Mustang GT about 2 months ago has over 200K Miles and seems to be running great however, there are a couple of things I'm wondering and will be willing to do immediately.

I don't know what the name of it is, but there is a small piece of plastic located at the back to the engine block at the intake valley and it literally crumbled in my hands I want to replace it but I don't know what it is can someone help me with what its called?

Also I DID NOT replace the heater tube or Heater nipple when I did the swap, on occasion I see the motor run a little warm like it gets n further than the A on NORMAL then the high speed fan kicks in and returns to Between R-M. should I go ahead and swap it out or could it be something else also I will be putting in a 180* T-stat if I swap it all out.

Thanks for the help Guys.

DJINN n TONIC

On certain swaps, the coolant bypass tube causes clearance issues with the Intake manifold. If you were able to bolt the manifold down, you can move along. (Unless , of course you Crushed it...)

8111870a

you are talking about the dust cap @ the rear of the block. I think its referred to as a plug of some sort. Its not needed.
How did you install the PI intake without swapping out the tube? It completely interferes with the manifold sittting flush down in the valley.

Aaron Bridges

I have no idea it just went right in it sat fine but either way im going to replace it Thursday just in case it might fix my slightly warm engine issue. many thanks to both of you for replying so quickly. also I must say when I tried to install the new heater tube it seemed to long to run in the valley to the back of the block it didn't seem to fight right which I why I kept the original inside. and also the so called dust cap on the back of the block why would ford put it on there if it serves absolutely no purpose?

Aaron Bridges

I don't see how I could have crushed it, and even if I did wouldn't I bee having some sort of performance problem, like running extremely hot or also smelling radiator fluid, which I don't.

8111870a

"Assembly line foreign material preventer from going forward down the line."
It opens up to the flywheel, which also has another opening from below. No big deal.
Would be curious to see pics when you are removing the manifold, I tried to seat mine in, and couldnt come close to getting down without swapping the pipe.

DJINN n TONIC

Well, maybe "Crushed " is a bit harsh. If you kinked or flattened it to the point where it is restricted, it could run a bit warmer than normal.

What catches my interest is this.....There is no reason for "HIGH" fan to come on.....Low speed should keep it from ever getting that high. Does the low speed work????

Aaron Bridges

I will certainly do that, I don't understand it either after all the post about having to install that hose I laid it in there it was way to big for the valley it seemed, maybe I was doing something wrong??? I guess i'll find out Thursday and report back. Thanks Guys!

Aaron Bridges

Well I'm not sure it's defiantly loud when the fan kicks on , I just replaced the fan in February because the bearings went out in the original. How would I be able to test between the low and high speed fan like to check for a short or something of that nature; and even still that tube is solid metal I don't see how that piece of plastic could have kinked the tube even more so its only torqued at like 18ft.lbs.? I have an Autel 3000 Computer @ work I may be able to test it on that?

DJINN n TONIC

Really simple..... Start the car and turn on the A/C.....That should force High fan. Now turn the a/c off, and wait till the engine gets hot and the fan comes on. Is there a speed difference between the two situations?

Im not all that familiar with Fords of this era, but I seem to remember something about an IRCM, or CCRM, that contained all the relays and was controlled individually by PCM?

You should have a 3 wire fan...one wire for low, one for high, and the third is the ground common to both. a 12v test lamp is all that is needed for that.