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Old 07-09-2013, 08:52 PM   #4
2nd Gear Member

VistaBlueFrank68's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2012
Vehicle: 2013, Ford, GT/CS
Location: Washington
Posts: 377

LCB: You'll need to harness your power. Lower Control Brackets(LBC), not a LCA, which is an Arm. LCB's will lower the attachment point of your LCA to form a virtual triangle that'll plant your tires and limit wheel hop and speed you-up.

Shifters: Any short throw with a single or double bottom bracket will help you, miss a shift and your out. MGW, Barton and Ford Racing. Cheap is cheap, but these three are very expensive, and will almost shift the feared 2-3 for you.

One piece Driveshaft: Not sure which one you have? Also throw a braided steel clutch line on if you have a hydraulic clutch, not sure of yours. Catastrophic failure are expensive$$$, so bomb proof your driveline up front if you can. I'll up grade my diff shafts to "Alloy", Clutch - Stage1(has to be a D/D), if you're clutching it up, might as well do an Aluminum Flywheel to save some time and cash. I also believe that might be a good time to put in Long Tubes. Other way around and you will have to take them out and in twice$$$

Posi-traction: The Posi is a Ford stock?(cheapest?) I hear Boss has T2 because it's been pointed out to me as good for the track not so good for the strip. So Detroit, Yukon, and Auburn? I'll go with Yukon, middle cost, strong? I'll find out. I'm trying not to break the bank and yet cover all the weak points.

I'm also going to mount a Swarr-bar to help with launches. See AM under suspension.
Don't take all the weight out of your trunk, you'll loose traction and spin to much.

I've put the Boss intake on my 2013, you have a 4.6, FRPP makes an improved intake that's like the Boss and the Shelby "Black Lung".

Tunes: It cost more but I prefer to have a custom shop tune my car after major mods. Then I have it dyno-ed to ensure all is right and then I get an accurate Brag-able hp#.

I don't know S/C(Blow) or NOS(Spray) so I will leave that to others. I just want a dependable car and S/C and Spray sound complex and explosively short lived.

Tires? I need a D/D so Nitto Evo 555 are the most $$$ so they must be good? Right?

Don't know much but poking around this site helps, like I'll do Clutch/Fly at same time as LT's. Also slicks seem to find any and every weakness in your drive-line.

Last edited by VistaBlueFrank68; 07-09-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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