rumtillidie

Hello everyone

I finally finished running my power wires (ran it through the grommet beside the battery, and found a ground inside the spare tire area below the latch. I couldn't find any other place to run the ground inside the trunk, there are no bolts anywhere!

Anyway all I have to do now is run the hi/low pass but I can't tell which terminal is the positive and negative on the rear speakers inside the trunk. I got the base model with the 4 speakers and from what I heard the stock stereo doesn't have the pre-outs on the back of it. The speakers have a wire on each side but are the same colour (grey) so I can't tell which one is + and -.

Also my capacitor doesn't seem to be getting any power, I believe the ground that I have is not good enough for my amplifier. Can anyone else tell me where they ran there ground wire inside there trunks?

Thanks!

ticopowell

I used a seatbelt bracket for a ground once, I would try a few different bolts if the first one wasn't a good ground. Also check behind the carpet on the sides of the trunk for good bolts.
I have never ran a capacitor so I can't help with that.
With the speaker wires it isn't going to make much of a difference that you can hear if you swap the wires. If you really want to have the right wires (and I understand if you do) check the wires again, they might be mostly grey but I am sure that they have another color with them. Then find a wiring diagram (google?) and it should help you figure out which wire goes where. You can also get a multi-meter and try and figure out which wire is pos/neg with it.
Hope that helps...

bl817

join the12volt.com. its free and theres free wiring diagrams and installers on there to help. good luck

Ricardo

I run a Alpine MRD-1000 and MRP-250 and have both grounded just fine on a 4 gauge ground with a ring terminal on the end. Sand the paint off down to bare metal on the trunk floor and use a good sheet metal screw. Be sure to know where the other end of the screw is going.

Get rid of the capacitor, they are garbage and actually present a bigger load to your car's charging system. If your charging system is so taxed that your amps use the capacitor and drain it, then your battery & alternator are asked to not only power your amps but to recharge the capacitor as well. Get a better alternator & a yellow top and call it a day before using a capacitor.

RetiredSFC 97

If the wiring hasn't changed form 2012 to 2014 the RR pos is brn-wh and the left rear is wh-grn according to a schematic I just found.

https://www.google.com/search?q=must...h=829#imgdii=_

jz78817

correct. the base 4-speaker system uses a radio without any AUX outputs. As for the polarity, with Ford 5.5"x7.5" speakers, if you place the speaker face down with the connector pointing at you, the (+) terminal is on the left. you can verify with a 9 volt battery.

any piece of body sheetmetal should do. the car's body is one big ground wire.

What?!? Having speaker(s) out of phase is a good way to kill your system's bass.

I wouldn't use the trunk floor; once you punch a screw through it you've exposed bare metal to water and salt, and pretty much guaranteed your car will start rusting there. Use one of the braces inside the trunk or the package tray sheetmetal; basically any body panel where either side isn't exposed to the elements.

agreed, add-on capacitors are bunk. If you have a decent amplifier, it already has enough storage caps inside it to perform as well as it should. The only thing adding an external cap would do is make your lights dim a little less.