I tightened the shocks while the car was still up in the air. Should I loosen and retighten them while on the ground? The 1/8" axle shift seems minimal, I didn't think that it was worth worrying about...
The 2 degrees in front is only an estimate, it may be a little less. The Steedas lowered the car more than I expected, I think it's more than an inch, especially in back. I did order camber bolts.
The Steedas spring rate is not that much different than stock, the ride is actually quite nice. Even Steeda admits that the stock shocks are aggessive enough to deal with their springs. That said, I probably will get shocks eventually.
Overall, I am digging the change. And I am digging this thread. Thanks for all the advice, keep it coming.
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ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Hi smedlin,
When you tightened the rear shocks at the axle did you do it with the car on the ground? This can make a big difference in ride height and will affect you axle centering measurement.
As far as correcting your camber, 2 degrees negative sounds high given that Steeda's springs don't even lower the car an inch in front. I've got Eibach Pro-Kit springs which with Tokico D-Spec struts which lowered the car about 1.5" and my car has about 2 degrees of negative camber even though I pulled the wheels out to get back as much camber as I could before snuging up the bolts. You should have much less negative camber if you do this.
No luck, you must buy something to fix your camber problem. But there are inexpensive ($20-$40), offset bolts to correct the problem without spending $200 for Steeda's billet camber kit. You have NO IDEA how much better handling your car would be with a set of Tokic's adjustable D-Spec struts and dampers. You are leaving 75% of your car's cornering potential and handling on the table without good adjustable dampers. Adjustability is incredibly important in matching your spring rates to your dampening rate. If you buy a set of springs from vendor "A" and struts and shocks from vendor "B" there is almost no chance that they will be optimal for each other. The ability to adjust the dampening to match the spring rate and conditions is really important if you like the feel of a well tuned suspension setup.
HTH
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ORIGINAL: smedin
A few days after the Steeda Spring install, I measured my rear axle, and if I moved it 1/8" to the right, it would be perfectly aligned. I'm having a hard time convincing myself to spend $120 to accomplish that. However, my front end is a different story. The tops of the wheels are 1/2" further inboard than the bottoms, or about 2 degrees out. Is there any way to correct that without buying any hardware? Loving the stance and the handling, BTW.
Any advice is appreciated! Thanks.
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