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Old 02-07-2007, 03:56 PM   #11
Hisss04Cobra
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: PReal

If I can find my explanation of why one size of sub isn't "tighter" then the other, that might also be helpful.
Hahahahah, i guess i'll need to start on my, "Why you don't need a capacitator." Thread.
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:59 AM   #12
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Ok...Dumb question, very newb like, I'm sure, but...

Let's say I'm looking todo some audio upgradesfor my Mustang. Since I'm primarily a classic rock type of guy, I like to have something that's got a tiny bit of bass thump, midrange tweeters, and good vocal levels for sound.

What should I look for in upgrading my sound system to something that's going to provide me with a fuller, richer sound than the tinny head unit that came in my car? Regardless of brand of speakers/amps/head units/etc, can I get some basics as to what to look for in setting up quality audio for my car?

Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2007, 01:04 PM   #13
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The first step to quality audio is the front stage and source unit.

The signal starts with a nice headunit that has reasonably high output voltage, and lots of nice options. I prefer one that has built in high and low pass crossovers. That means you can eliminate unwanted frequencies at the source instead of your amp.

After the souce is upgraded an amplified component set is the best way to improve your overall sound. The amps inside headunits are weak so a stand alone amplifier is needed for optimal frequency reproduction.

A component set has separate mids, tweets and crossovers. One key factor often over looked is the install of the front stage speakers. Make sure to use lots of sound deadener on your doors and I use sound deadener to seal the doors as well. Sometimes if the speaker mounting location is plastic and rattles, some modeling clay can be used to dampen the vibrations.

The second step is in low frequency production.

If you follow the insrcutions above, you will have much better full range sound and a drastic improvment in midbass and bass. If you would like to further augment your sound for more percussion in the low end, buy a sub.

If you like your music faithfully reproduced I prefer to install a sub in a small sealed enclouse for optimal suspenion stiffness. This means that your sub only moves when it is driven. An poorly sealed or ported enclosure uses the usupension material to return the cone to its origin, when you use pressure the bass does not tend to lag as poorly. Low frequencies take a lot of power to generate, so a powerful amplifier is needed. More deadening should take place around the sub to reduce vibrations and then you should be good to go.

Third, any professional that prefers quality of sound to quantity of sound will inform you that rear speakers are not recommended. There are two ways to think about this. You do not go to a concert and turn around to hear from behind you, so why would you want that sensation in a car. Also wouldn't you rather spend any additional money in the budget to further upgrade the frontstage that you actually hear. If you have rear passengers, and you have followed the above insturctions, they will be able to hear.
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:55 PM   #14
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I have a bunch of things I started to type to make a sticky like this I think me and hiss talked about this but it never went through... I'll look around
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:31 PM   #15
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FAQ's in the Audio/Video Forum
How do I hook up an aftermarket CD player to my Mach 460 Audio System?

FD03B
This is the harness you will need; there are a few companies that make them. This is what it will look like though, this particular one is from Scosche.
This piece is also for head units that have front and rear audio outputs. Many head units under $200 will not have these. Yes there is another way to put in the head unit you want but this is the cleanest and best way to do it. This is of course if you insist on utilizing your Mach amps. I do suggest getting aftermarket amplifiers and speakers for the best sound, but many people are satisfied with this solution.

OEA4
This is an interface you can use if your head unit doesn't have RCA outputs. I won't perform near as well but it will work. Again this is close to what it should look like this is the product from Scosche.


Where’s the best place to run my power wire for an amplifier?
NEVER run your power wire through the door jam. It can start a fire this has happened to many people that wanted to save time, and actually on Mustangs it’s easier and less time consuming to run the wire through the grommet I’m going to show you. So there is no excuse to ever use the door jam. These pictures are from a SN95 Mustang, look for similair grommets for you Foxbody. The 99-04layout isvery similiar to SN95 firewall.

This picture was taken from the left side of my brake pedal. Refer to where the steering shaft is located to find which grommet to run your wire through.

This is where the grommet is located if you look under your hood. This picture was taken from the suspension tower on the driver’s side of the vehicle.



How do I wire my subwoofers correctly?
Here’s a link that will tell you exactly how to wire your subwoofers correctly, and to achieve your desired impedance. Simply open the page, click whether you have Single Voice Coil or Dual Voice Coil subwoofers and it will show you how to wire them with up to 6 subwoofers.
Subwoofer Diagrams



What is the model number for a battery that will fit in my Mustang?

Odyssey Batteries PC1200

Stinger Electronics SP1000



Stinger Electronics SPV 44

Northstar NSB75

Kinetik Audio HC800

Optima 34/


I want better SQ and SPL, I need a Capacitor right?[/align][hr]

After studying a little history on large 1 Farad capacitors in car audio, you'd be amazed that they even sell at all. How useful are they? What do they really do? Will a Cap 'improve' my sound quality? Will it Prevent my lights from dimming? Will it audibly affect my audio system in any way?

Before you get the truth to any of the above questions, chances are, you've probably spent $100 or more on one of these devices. However, let's study a little history regarding this issue.

A long time ago, in a land far away, 2 elves...Ok, Richard Clark & Wayne Harris (Carsound magazine and the inventor of DB Drag, respectively) separately came up with a solution to preventing their lights from dimming.

WHO WERE THESE GUYZ?

As you may know, Richard Clark is one of the founders of autosound2000 Tech Briefs, Carsound magazine, and a published author of the industry of mobile electronics. In SQ competitions, he posted a record of 1234 1st place finishes, and only ended up NOT 1st in his first event. I've heard that he had minor system problems, but judging by his record, he must have corrected it. (evidently, he needed a Capacitor )

Wayne Harris was previously a leader at Rockford Fosgate in their development. Later, in his free time, he created the organization we call DB DRAG. Wayne was the first SQ World Champion from the organization we know as IASCA (International AutoSound Challenge Association).

Both of these gurus are both legends, and considered the leading experts in the field. During their competition days, both guyz came up with a way to assist in the prevention of voltage drops. In SQ competitions, the look of your system is actually more important than the sound, and having your lights NOT dim under high playing levels is a competitive advantage.

As you may know, an amplifiers is made up a battery of little capacitors, resistors, etc. What has been common engineering knowledge is that capacitors store energy, and more or bigger ones assist in balancing the power supply.

Wayne came up with the idea of putting several dozen 'little' (approx 100uF) capacitors on a circuit board to 'extend' the power supplies storage. At about the same time, or shortly afterward, Richard came up with the idea of one huge mondo capacitor (I believe it was 800,000uF or 0.8F) to do the job.

Eventually, Richard won. The large cylindrical tubes won over the complicated 48 caps strapped to a circuit board. However, what did this really accomplish? Let's start here:

WHAT IS A CAPACITOR?

Basically, capacitors are an energy storage device. Large, 1 Farad or more
capacitors store energy (electrons) between their plates. Capacitors differ
from batteries because batteries store energy in the form of chemical
energy--and rely on acid as the place of storage. For a more detailed
description of a capacitor, go here:

www.eatel.net/~amptech/el...raudio.htm

Then on the right hand side, scroll down to CAPACITOR. Keep in mind the use
of capacitors in an audio system.

WHY DO PEOPLE BUY CAPACITORS?

The number 1 reason would have to be because their lights dim when their
system is playing HARD. In car audio, we are told that a capacitor is
designed to prevent the voltage drop associated with your lights dimming.
The number2 reason is that it is rumored to 'improve' sound quality or
'stiffen' the power supply/source.

WHY DO MY LIGHTS DIM?

Headlights brightness is in direct proportion to the source voltage. For
instance, if your car is running, system voltage is ~12.5 -14.4 VOLTS. Your
lights will be much brighter than when your car is turned off--where battery
voltage is ~12V. Most car alternators put out between 75 to 120 amps of
current. When this current draw threshold of the charging system is
exceeded, system voltage will drop as power demands are now shared by the
alternator and the storage devices (battery & cap). We are using battery
reserves beyond this point until the demand lessens

When playing your system really hard. Your lights dim because your
alternator can't keep up it's charging voltage (around 13.8V) and therefore,
demand exceeds output. When this happens, your electronic devices are
dipping into the power storage of the battery. Since the battery stores
power at ~ 12-12.5V, there is a 1.3 to 1.8V drop in voltage available. This
in turn is why your lights dim dow
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:34 PM   #16
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P.S. we need to delete some of the clutter on here and just have the facts posted. Like the D-Bag that decided to ask a question in this thread, get the junk out!
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:53 PM   #17
Hisss04Cobra
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Ah, let 'em ask questions. It will help stop the intelligent people who come in here from asking the same question.
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:28 AM   #18
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link for reading on caps
http://3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176417
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Old 02-27-2007, 01:24 AM   #19
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I have to agree with this sticky it helps out alot and get rid of alot of questions.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:10 AM   #20
Hisss04Cobra
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Hisss baby. Why do my subs make a "Popping" Noise when I turn off my car?

This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path, which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers.

Most of the timethis problem will be easily solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the processor. This allows the processor to stay on for a short time after the amps haveshut down, therefore preventing the pop sound you hear.

Many comps and equalizers that are sold today have built in delays. Use this to your advantage.


[hr]

HISSSSS$$$$$$ what's a line driver?


Well, aline driver is a device that amplifies a signal,like a low-level signal output from a cd player. Line drivers are always made to amplify the line level signal to as much asten volts. This is useless UNLESS the receiving end can handletenvolts as input.

To solve this problem, there are line receivers which bring the line level voltage down fromten volts or more to aroundone volt.Most of the timethe line driver and receiver are placed as close to the sending signal source and destination as possible, to minimize noise pick up.


[hr]



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