SatinSilverStang

ANSWERS TO COMMON QUESTIONS WHEN INSTALLING:

Shaker 500/1000 Subwoofer Popping during turn-on:

popping is due to the fact that most factory Ford stereos only send a 5 volt turn on signal to the sub amp.
All aftermarket radios have 12 volt remote outputs.
To avoid the pop, you will need to add a 12 volt to 5 volt regulator in line on the remote lead.
It can be purchased at any Radio Shack, the part number is 276-1770.





Bypass your D-3

1. Remove the yellow and black mute wire from back of harness
2. Place the Mute wire in the slot directly above where you removed it from. (see picture)
3. Using a wire tap (radio shack 10 for $5) connect the mute wire to the ground.
4. Using the wire tap (that is already attached to the parking break wire/green wire)
attach it to the ground wire as well coming from the parking brake





Illum. Wire

you need to tap the orange & white wire that came with you AVIC-D3 to one in the headlight switch
SEE PICS (thank you Outatime)








Installation Write-up For A S197 Shaker500 Car
Curtesy of: Nonstopred

Installation:

Parts List:
Pioneer Avic-D3
XM Adapter (GEX-P920XM)
iPod Adapter (CD-i200)
Wiring Harness (Metra Part # 70-5521) *If you don’t have Shaker 500 you use #70-5520
Dash Kit (Metra Part #95-5812)
5V Fixed Voltage Regulator (Model 7805 from Radioshack) *Will mention later

Tools List:
Wire Clippers/Strippers
Soldering Iron/Solder (Could just crimp the wires together
Pack of heat-shrink from Radioshack (You could wrap everything in tape)
Hairdryer
Trim Removal Tool… (Not necessary but helpful)

Harness:

Since I wasted half the day getting all the parts, I didn’t end up starting until close to 3:00 in the afternoon. So I only planned on doing the harness because it gets dark quick and I didn’t want to have a half finished car.

The parts you will now have in front of you to make the harness are 2 from Pioneer, and 2 from Metra. The Metra Harness plugs into the existing ford harness such that you do not have do any work behind the dash other than plugging in. You can also take it out in the future if you please. Each harness has colors coming out of each that must be attached to the corresponding one on the other. I then made a spreadsheet of the colors to cross reference them from the Metra Harness to the Pioneer one. I was relieved that most were exactly the same color.

The first thing I did when putting it together was soldering together the main stuff, none of the tricky parts, just doing color to color. Make sure if you are going to use heat-shrink, to slide it on prior to twisting the wires together and soldering (made this mistake once or twice, had to use tape over the connections. Once you are done soldering, use the blow dryer to melt the heat shrink to the connection.





Bypass:

After this was done I did the bypass mod, which allows you to watch DVD’s while in motion as well as changing your navigation route. (I do not encourage watching DVD’s while driving, but having it is very helpful for the navigation)[ul][*]Remove the Yellow/Black Mute Wire from the white Pioneer Harness. (You do this buy using a small screwdriver to pull up on the tab for that pin, and pull it out. You will then have to put it in the spot directly above it, but remember to turn it around so the flat part is facing out (mimic how you took it out))[*]Then you must ground that wire, as well as the Light Green Parking Brake Switch Cable. The Way I did this was make a large ground bundle containing those 2 wires, as well as the 2 black wires from the different harnesses, and the ground for the voltage regulator (check below) As an extra ground, I added the excess ground wire from the pioneer harness to it which has a spot for it to be screwed in (Not Necessary)[/ul]

For more pictures, check out Necro’s Flash Tutorial: http://www.avic411.com/D3Bypass/album0.html

Grounded Wire Cluster



Voltage Regulator (Shaker 500 Only):

This is needed because the Ford Amplifiers in the Shaker 500 system require only a 5V turn on signal; however the Avic-D3 puts out 12V. This causes a popping sound to be heard every time the car starts up.

To fix this, you must put this regulator (7805 from Radioshack) in between the Blue/White System Remote Control output from the white Pioneer Harness (input) and the 2 Blue/White wires from the small Metra Harness (both go to the output) The middle of the regulator is for the ground. To make this easier, I took 3 pieces of the parking brake leftover wire and attached those to the Regulator, then to the other leads.





RCA Cables (Shaker 500 Only):

When attaching the 2 RCA Cables that come out of the smaller Metra harness, you simply attach the red and white into the red and white on the pioneer subwoofer out of the harness.

Wiring/Mounting/etc…

**Disconnectthe negative battery terminal, prior to touching wires in the car!

The Mess:


Dash Removal:
To remove the dash, you must open up the cubby box in the center console, and unscrew 2 Phillips head screws. Then simply unclip the shift boot (trim ring on automatics), and then pull up until it unsnaps. It may take some working to get it past the emergency brake.
Next step is to remove the 2 sail panels on either side of the dash board. (Pull away from dash)
Next, using a 9/32 socket screwdriver, unscrew 6? Screws down the side of the dash piece, and pull that out slowly, while reaching behind and unplugging all the connections. I wasn’t able to get one of the AC controls off (right side) and just ended up leaving it plugged in and swinging the piece around and have it hang there.
To remove the radio, you have just 4 more 9/32 screws to remove and then pull out; remove the wires and you’re done.
After I finished this I plugged in the Pioneer just to see if everything was functioning properly and my harness was made correctly.



Navigation/XM Antenna Wiring:
This was probably the hardest, most tedious part of the install. Many people have mounted the Navigation antenna underneath the dash, but because I had to run the XM antenna as well,

marlinmon070

for the illumination, does the orange/white wire coming from the AVIC still need to be connected to the factory orange/white wire coming from the dash while doing the line tap to the headlight switch?
btw, what wire did you tap at the headlight switch harness

thanks

SatinSilverStang

i personally didnt tap mine as i preferred the white background both day and night, PM Outatime, since those photos are his, he should be able to help

dalbert

I went to Circuit City today and talked to the guy about doing a bypass and the illumination wire. He said he would do the illumination wire, no problem. But I think I'm going to need to tell him which wire it is? What EXACTLY should I tell him? Also what should I tell him to get the speed sensor properly hooked up? Or should he already know how to do that?

Also he said I should talk to the installer that day and give him some money on the side to possibly get it bypassed [sm=youreright.gif] He said that they're really not supposed to do any bypassing at all because its illegal, etc.

SatinSilverStang

true, it is illegal to do bypass, but most will do it for some pocket money

he should know how where the Vehicle Speed Sensor

dalbert

I got mine installed at circuit city today. They did the bypass, and the hooked up the speed sensor, and those both work fine.

Only one problem now.



The illumination doesn't work at all. When I turn my headlights on, nothing happens. When I go into the settings to manually set it to nighttime mode, nothing happens either.

Im going to bring it back to Circuit City, but what do I have to tell him? He said he hooked up the orange wire, to what I dont know but he said he did it. Are there any specific instructions for tapping the orange wire into the headlights for the mustang?

SatinSilverStang

none that i know of, you can try printing those pictures i posted and showing him to tap those, but i dont know of any other solution currently

dalbert

OK Im going to do that. Hopefully he handnt tapped it into the headlight switch yet and that yet and that is what the problem was.

dpjoye

Can you tell me where and what color is the vss wire for the navigaton speed sensor in a 2006 mustang?

brycspain

Question, do you need one regulator for each sub? Assuming there is one sub in each front door for the Shaker 500. The reason I ask is there are 2 blue/white wires and 2 RCA wires coming from the little harness for the 2006 Ford. In the pic below, I'm referring to the smaller of the two harnesses.

Thanks

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dbZKHeA...sp?i=120705521