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I wired an in-line converter to the front left and front right speaker wires behind the head unit (soldering each connection of course). An in-line converter converts factory wiring to RCA without disturbing the factory speakers. A wireing diagram for the shaker 500 is on this forum somewhere, just search for it ; )
There are better ways of doing it, and of course they cost more $, so for subs this will work fine.
~Bigmanrpb~
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BoomTube Crew Member
C&L Street Intake
Brenspeed Tuned SCT Tuner
MGW Shifter
4.10 FRPP Gears
JL Audio 12W7 & Alpine PDX 1.1000
18" by 10.5" Deep Dish Aluminum Fan Blades in Rear
295/35/18 BFG g-force T/A KDW NT Rear
245/40/18 BFG g-force T/A KDW NT Front
VERY nice!!! I have a 12w7 in pre-fabbed enclosure and as you can see, it was shifting around the trunk damaging that expensive-ass grille . I used some industrial grade velcro on the bottom/trunk floor which helped. I need to bolt it to the deck like you've done...or shell for that 13w7 in the mustang stealthbox. Been drooling over that thing for a very LONG time . When the guys in the local audio store told me how much more output the 13w7 has over the 12w7 I was surprised! that's one badass driver.
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2007 Alloy GT Coupe/MGW shifter/C&L Racer CAI/JBA LT's/JBA catted H/Pypes M-80 race mufflers/Steeda HD engine mounts/LFP 17# driveshaft/FRPP 4.10s/Truetrac/Steeda Ultralite 18x9.5's with 275/40 and 285/40 Nitto NT555/Autometer DPSS shift light and gauges. Suspension: Steeda Comp Springs/GT500 Front CA's with Steeda X5 balljoints/Steeda bumpsteer kit/Tokico D-Specs/BMR adj upper & lower LCAs+relocation brackets/Hotchkis 3/4way adj swaybars/UMI Performance panhard.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 11-04-2009 at 06:54 PM.
Agreed on this point. There was a long discussion regarding headlight dimming on another forum. The guy even upgraded to a high output alternator and still had dimming issues. Not ONE of the so-called "experts" recommended a capacitor which confused me...thinking a cap was the answer. They all recommended a big three upgrade along with sanding down to bare metal at ground contact points.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ttocs
next time you are under your hood take a look at the negative batter cable that comes off the battery and then goes to the chassis. AFter that look at the power wires that go to the alternator, and now compare those to your 2 awg and you will see where the current choke point for the factory electrical system is. Running 2 awg all the way to the cap is useless if the power and ground wires for the entire system is the usual 10 awg factory wire. Do big 3 upgrade and you will see a difference.
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2007 Alloy GT Coupe/MGW shifter/C&L Racer CAI/JBA LT's/JBA catted H/Pypes M-80 race mufflers/Steeda HD engine mounts/LFP 17# driveshaft/FRPP 4.10s/Truetrac/Steeda Ultralite 18x9.5's with 275/40 and 285/40 Nitto NT555/Autometer DPSS shift light and gauges. Suspension: Steeda Comp Springs/GT500 Front CA's with Steeda X5 balljoints/Steeda bumpsteer kit/Tokico D-Specs/BMR adj upper & lower LCAs+relocation brackets/Hotchkis 3/4way adj swaybars/UMI Performance panhard.
Agreed on this point. There was a long discussion regarding headlight dimming on another forum. The guy even upgraded to a high output alternator and still had dimming issues. Not ONE of the so-called "experts" recommended a capacitor which confused me...thinking a cap was the answer. They all recommended a big three upgrade along with sanding down to bare metal at ground contact points.
The Big Three is a fact.
Cap's are the biggest marketing scam in all of car audio...
There is even a link to some facts about caps in the Sticky at the top of the page.
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. I used some industrial grade velcro on the bottom/trunk floor which helped. I need to bolt it to the deck like you've done...or shell for that 13w7 in the mustang stealthbox. Been drooling over that thing for a very LONG time 
. When the guys in the local audio store told me how much more output the 13w7 has over the 12w7 I was surprised! that's one badass driver.
