Installed 12W7 in GT/CS with PICS and Details!

[bigmanrpb]

Hello all, I decided to add a sub to my 07 GT/CS and since this is my fifth subwoolfer system I kinda have a feel for what works and what doesnt. I wanted Just one 12" to keep alot of trunk space but also to get the best sound clairty from having just one sub. I choose the JL Audio 12W7 since I know it to be a very powerful sub and one of the best subwoolfer designs you can find. I build my box using 1" MDF as JL recomends to 1.515 cubic feet exactly. If your an engineer like me you may have just laughed at that accuracy but trust me its true. I used Solidworks to design my box to that tolerance and tried many designs before picking the best: I then went to work with a table saw, drill press, plainer, band saw, cordless drill, belt sander, etc. and 6 hours later I had my box with the W7 installed, built in speaker terminals and mounting brackets. A big part of this install was NOT to drill holes into my GT/CS. Every hole you would ever need is already stamped into the car, you just have to find it. I found 2 holes that were the perfect size in the bracket on the trunks roof. I used 2 1/2" steel bolts as JL recomends with metal and rubber washers and locknuts. The rubber washers really helped cut down on rattle. Finally I carpeted the box and lifted the 45 lb sub into its new home. As you can see there are no apparent mounting screws. With a W7 you must remove the outer ring and washer and pull the surround out of the way to insert the screws. This gives the sub more functional area and cuts down on theft. In a previous picture you can see that the sub comes mounted on a 1" piece of MDF and the same procedure is used to remove it and then install it into the box. This thing isnt going anywhere! I Then installed my Alpine PDX 1.1000 amp that tested at 1102 watts RMS as shown on its factory cert. I used a fused 0 gauge wire to a Rockford Fosgate distribution block then to a 1.7 Farad Capacitor with a voltage read and chargeing LED's with 4 gauge to the amp. You can also see the custom JL driver protectors which I think look great! I couldnt be happier with the install! It took me a week to design and 2 days to install since I had to wait for the amp and cap to arrive. The whole project cost me about $1100 since I knew some Audio Dealers and found a great deal on MDF and wire. The sub HITS HARD and I love to shake the whole street! Since I left the Shaker 500 alone the stang looks stock, but its Fast and Loud and nothing but pure fun! Thanks for Looking! ~Bigmanrpb~

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[SteveSkal]

Nice install, I had a 13W7 with a JL Audio 1000/1 hooked up to it in my Escalade and I couldn't even sit in the car with the bass up! Enjoy your new system!

[PReal]

Very nice equipment. Those PDX amps are great for the limited space they consume. JL makes a pretty good sub.

What type of Engineer are you? I'm an ME.

With the basic understanding of how DC circuits work you have, I'm pretty sure I can convince you to ditch the capacitor. If you want to know why you should take it out of your circuit read the info in the information thread.

One word about the theft thing and the surround hiding the screws. I have seen numberous instances where a thief could not take anything, so they just destroyed it. That would piss me off more then getting broken into.

[ttocs]

good job on the install. I like the way you made the mounting for the box and the way you made the edges so it is easy to carpet! I only have a couple of concerns.

1- Caps are little more then candy, you don't need them.
2- if you have not upgraded the factory grounds that 0 awg is doing no good.
3- amps do not cool them selfs well mounted upside down on the top of the trunk and it is generally recomended to not mount them that way. If you say that they did it with the mach system so it must be ok then take your left hand and slap yourself 1 time.

[unlisted]

Nice install... and I won't point out any faults as others have mentioned it already.

Still pretty darn nice, maybe you should manufacture sub boxes on the side? I could see a good market on fleabay for something like that...

[Iskwezm]

Put a better 4 channel amp on your stock speakers and you'll notice a big difference too.

[ttocs]

I consider it more constructive critisism then telling what is wrong.

Don't waste your time amping the factory speakers.

[bigmanrpb]

ttocs,

The Amp is not mounted upside down or to the top of the trunk, its mounted to the box. Before you say the vibrations will damage it, remember its 1" MDF and can withstand the weight of the whole car.

I know the general opinion of Cap's and I do have to point out just 1 thing: when I wired it with out the cap the gauges and headlights dimmed; with the cap they do not. So the cap is alot more than "candy", its like bj level ; )

I have taken several physics classes dealing with circuts and I realize that a BatCap, new alternator or other upgrades are more important that a Cap but the Cap was $50 installed so it wins the cost to benifit ratio. If the electrical system fails, I will upgrade it then.

Heres a better pic of the trunk setup with my stuff in it as well:



And here is the newest picture of My Stang with its new rear wheels, tint, and tires all around:



Thanks for the comments!

~Bigmanrpb~

[Black Chrome]

Originally Posted by bigmanrpb

I know the general opinion of Cap's and I do have to point out just 1 thing: when I wired it with out the cap the gauges and headlights dimmed; with the cap they do not. So the cap is alot more than "candy", its like bj level ; )

I 100% agree with you; I had the same issue without caps and fixed it with caps. It sucks that with my vehicle off and stereo on, my battery dies fast. So ya, a better battery is next for me.

[ttocs]

AHHH, gotcha! I have never been too concerned about mounting amps to boxes and if the cap helped then hey who am I to criticise?

I thought that they recomended 1.5" thick for the piece that the sub mounts to for the weight of the sub?

Have you upgraded the factory grounds?