dynamat xtreme
04-25-2009, 05:14 PM
#13
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
yup, he is right, it is WAAAAAY cheaper....
I really think you are making this out to be more then it is. All you need to do is expose the area you want to cover, lightly clean the area, then peel and stick! The roller is used after this just to help push the material to the metal to ensure that it sticks. After that you just cover it back up and yer done. The trunk panels are held on by some twist on fasteners and plastic tabs. STick yer head in and take a look around and you will see them.
I show a little bit of damping on my doors in my cardomain page.
Since you are looking at doing this yourself, just curious if you know the difference between damping and dampENing?
I really think you are making this out to be more then it is. All you need to do is expose the area you want to cover, lightly clean the area, then peel and stick! The roller is used after this just to help push the material to the metal to ensure that it sticks. After that you just cover it back up and yer done. The trunk panels are held on by some twist on fasteners and plastic tabs. STick yer head in and take a look around and you will see them.
I show a little bit of damping on my doors in my cardomain page.
Since you are looking at doing this yourself, just curious if you know the difference between damping and dampENing?
04-25-2009, 11:07 PM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Near Wash. DC Posts: 13,541
Posts: 2,497
Fat mat has been demonstrated to be significantly cheaper in it's manufacturing and quality than Dynamat Xtreme.
For certain frequencies it would take TWO layres of fatmat to account for one layre of dynamat. I'm not making that up either and Dynamat costs so much partly because it's very expensive to make it properly. They still overcharge for it, but there is only one similar product which is made as properly as Dynamat and it's more expensive.
For certain frequencies it would take TWO layres of fatmat to account for one layre of dynamat. I'm not making that up either and Dynamat costs so much partly because it's very expensive to make it properly. They still overcharge for it, but there is only one similar product which is made as properly as Dynamat and it's more expensive.
04-26-2009, 10:29 AM
#17
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,957
hahahaha i see the difference now...
so do I need a special tool to take the doors apart? it seems like this would be the hardest part of the install? is there a write up?
so do I need a special tool to take the doors apart? it seems like this would be the hardest part of the install? is there a write up?
Last edited by sandcracker21; 04-26-2009 at 10:35 AM.
04-26-2009, 01:25 PM
#18
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
shouldn't need anything more then a screw driver. I don't think there is a write up on it, I will walk you through what I can remember.
STart by pulling in(towards you) on the top of the door pull cut just enough to release the clips on top. when they pop free then pull it up to release the clips on the bottom. Under that panel you will find a couple of philips head screw that you need to remove. Now look on the very front of the door panel on the edge that you have probably never looked at(it faces the hood/front when the door is shut) and you will see a flat plastic pic that will be difficult to remove. This is the only part that you might need a special tool(panel popper) but you can use a flat head screw driver or a set of needle nose. Once it is out then look at the back portion of the panel, covered up by the carpet you will find a small hole with another philips head behind it. Once that is out I think you have removed all the screws and then can start to remove the panel but if one area is holding tightly check again for screws. It has been a while since mine were apart.
STart by pulling in(towards you) on the top of the door pull cut just enough to release the clips on top. when they pop free then pull it up to release the clips on the bottom. Under that panel you will find a couple of philips head screw that you need to remove. Now look on the very front of the door panel on the edge that you have probably never looked at(it faces the hood/front when the door is shut) and you will see a flat plastic pic that will be difficult to remove. This is the only part that you might need a special tool(panel popper) but you can use a flat head screw driver or a set of needle nose. Once it is out then look at the back portion of the panel, covered up by the carpet you will find a small hole with another philips head behind it. Once that is out I think you have removed all the screws and then can start to remove the panel but if one area is holding tightly check again for screws. It has been a while since mine were apart.
04-27-2009, 12:50 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: MD/WV
Posts: 5,736
Sandcracker, to take the doors off is very simple, but you must be very cautious not to break any of the plastic clips or ultimately your door will rattle and you will be mad everyday you drive [personal experience]. On the other hand though, you do have to show it tough love at certain times. Mainly it is simply knowing where the clips are and how they work.
Start by removing the "door cup", the part you grab to shut the door while inside of it. There is a slight groove on the top of that piece that you can pull back, and then pull upwards on the entire piece. Should pop right out. Disconnect the power controlls..
I believe there are 2 screws holding the door panel to the door itself behind that cup piece. Remove them.
Remove the dish shaped piece behind the "door pull", the handle you use to exit the car.
Ok, the tough lovin part. Grab in these newly empty spots and pull up on the entire door panel, then out. Don't go apesiht on the panel or you will brake something, but yopu should feel the panel be able to slide up, and then outwards to remove it completly.
Speakers are 5"x7", so if you are looking to replace them, that is the size. You can also put a 6"x8" in the same hole, they have a deeper shaped cone and that accounts for the extra inch while still retaining the same mounting area.
Oh, and dont break the clips!!
Edit: If you are installing deadening, use a roller. I don't think it is necessary for downward surfaces (floor), but any vertical or upside down surface is definitly a must (doors/roof). You can also use a heat source, and the roller, which will make it extra sticky. If you do it that way, once it's on there, it WONT come back off.
Start by removing the "door cup", the part you grab to shut the door while inside of it. There is a slight groove on the top of that piece that you can pull back, and then pull upwards on the entire piece. Should pop right out. Disconnect the power controlls..
I believe there are 2 screws holding the door panel to the door itself behind that cup piece. Remove them.
Remove the dish shaped piece behind the "door pull", the handle you use to exit the car.
Ok, the tough lovin part. Grab in these newly empty spots and pull up on the entire door panel, then out. Don't go apesiht on the panel or you will brake something, but yopu should feel the panel be able to slide up, and then outwards to remove it completly.
Speakers are 5"x7", so if you are looking to replace them, that is the size. You can also put a 6"x8" in the same hole, they have a deeper shaped cone and that accounts for the extra inch while still retaining the same mounting area.
Oh, and dont break the clips!!
Edit: If you are installing deadening, use a roller. I don't think it is necessary for downward surfaces (floor), but any vertical or upside down surface is definitly a must (doors/roof). You can also use a heat source, and the roller, which will make it extra sticky. If you do it that way, once it's on there, it WONT come back off.
Last edited by baddog671; 04-27-2009 at 12:53 PM.