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dynamat xtreme

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Old 04-23-2009, 12:40 AM   #1
sandcracker21
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Default dynamat xtreme

well the trunk rattle and road noice is getting to me more than ever...how hard is it to install dynamat in the doors and trunk?

how about the floor? (i may skip this as the trunk and door rattle is what is bugging me right now)
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:42 AM   #2
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Time consuming not hard at all, but it will get expensvise to do all(floors,trunk,doors) with dynamat .
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:41 PM   #3
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check out second skin for a better alternative. Their damplifier pro makes extreme look thin and their entry level stuff is the same for cheaper.
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:30 PM   #4
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i can get a pretty damn good deal on 36 square feet of dynamat xtreme...i was thinking about doing the doors myself and then taking it in to get the trunk done professionally

a guy quoted me at 65$ an hour with a trunk taking 2-3 hours ?

does that sound right? will the doors be hard to take apart?
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:26 PM   #5
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Do it yourself, no need to pay someone to do it. A trained monkey to install sound deadening...

Dynamat xtreme should be renamed dynamat xtreme ripoff. It may work, but it is no where near worth the expense. You could buy something MUCH cheaper and see similar results. If you are worried that the cheaper brand wont stand up to "dynamats superiority", then double layer it and it will surpass Dynamat...

I put 100sqft of Fatmat in my 67 (got it supercheap), and didn't even do most of the trunk. I did the floors, wheel wells, cabin-trunk divider, a custom rear seat divider I made, the ceiling, the firewall, the "hump" above the differential, and the gastank top. Many of the places were double layerd. I figured there was no point in deadening the trunk if I could just isolate it from the cabin, the main importance. Was like 80$ shipped I believe..
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddog671 View Post
Do it yourself, no need to pay someone to do it. A trained monkey to install sound deadening...

Dynamat xtreme should be renamed dynamat xtreme ripoff. It may work, but it is no where near worth the expense. You could buy something MUCH cheaper and see similar results. If you are worried that the cheaper brand wont stand up to "dynamats superiority", then double layer it and it will surpass Dynamat...

I put 100sqft of Fatmat in my 67 (got it supercheap), and didn't even do most of the trunk. I did the floors, wheel wells, cabin-trunk divider, a custom rear seat divider I made, the ceiling, the firewall, the "hump" above the differential, and the gastank top. Many of the places were double layerd. I figured there was no point in deadening the trunk if I could just isolate it from the cabin, the main importance. Was like 80$ shipped I believe..
wow, how lond did that take you! lol

my two 12 inch kickers and the stock speakers rattle the doors and trunk like mad, so thats really all i want to fix, and at the same time kill some road noice...im not going to do the floor or the roof, to save money and time....i have never done anything like this before
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:47 PM   #7
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the hardest part of doing it would be taking the doors apart. Take some time to wipe the area off but other then that you just peel and stick. I normally cut it into strips 5-7" wide and then just put them end-to-end. Get a wooden roller to help roll it into the grooves and the back of it to work it into corners.

I have had my hands on almost every brand of damping material but again I will not use anything less then second skin on mine.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...-Materials.php
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:25 PM   #8
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The 67 took like 2 or 3 weeks, but it was off and on work. I would cut 5-6ft lengths and then peel the backing off about 3 inches. Apply that 3 inches, and then slowly peel the backing away while smoothing it against the metal at the same time. Kinda hard to explain, but it made it lay straight and smooth. Did the roof in no time flat becuase the lack of groove.

Yes, wooden roller is a must!

Your trunk should be the same as my 98's. Just pull out all the "carpet" pieces, and start sticking. The previous owner of my car took a garbage bag full of insulation and stuffed it in the wheelwells to reduce noise...
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:30 AM   #9
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so second skin makes damplifier? the damplifier pro is a little out of my price range, and the normal damplifier is the same price as i can get the dynamat xtreme for...

so what you are saying is that dynamat xtreme and regular damplifier are about the same in quality? damplifier is better?

I will defer to your knowlege since i really dont know much about this topic
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:30 PM   #10
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I would go with the regular damplifier over the extreme. It is better stuff....
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Old 04-25-2009, 10:09 AM   #11
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so a special tool is needed for the doors? does anyone have a write up or anything on how to do the doors and trunk?

does the carpet just 'pull' out of the trunk?
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:32 AM   #12
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Fatmat is by far way cheaper even with 2 layers & works GREAT!!

Rick
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:14 PM   #13
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yup, he is right, it is WAAAAAY cheaper....

I really think you are making this out to be more then it is. All you need to do is expose the area you want to cover, lightly clean the area, then peel and stick! The roller is used after this just to help push the material to the metal to ensure that it sticks. After that you just cover it back up and yer done. The trunk panels are held on by some twist on fasteners and plastic tabs. STick yer head in and take a look around and you will see them.

I show a little bit of damping on my doors in my cardomain page.

Since you are looking at doing this yourself, just curious if you know the difference between damping and dampENing?
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RHuckster View Post
Fatmat is by far way cheaper even with 2 layers & works GREAT!!

Rick
Fat mat has been demonstrated to be significantly cheaper in it's manufacturing and quality than Dynamat Xtreme.

For certain frequencies it would take TWO layres of fatmat to account for one layre of dynamat. I'm not making that up either and Dynamat costs so much partly because it's very expensive to make it properly. They still overcharge for it, but there is only one similar product which is made as properly as Dynamat and it's more expensive.
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Old 04-26-2009, 12:42 AM   #15
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no, ttocs...i do not know the difference lol

i thought i was trying to do dampening though? isnt that what this stuff does?
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Old 04-26-2009, 09:19 AM   #16
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you are damping the door with sound damping material. If you want to dampEN the door the proper tool would be your hose. now you will be able to sound like a pro, while sounding like a pro....
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:29 AM   #17
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hahahaha i see the difference now...

so do I need a special tool to take the doors apart? it seems like this would be the hardest part of the install? is there a write up?
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:25 PM   #18
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shouldn't need anything more then a screw driver. I don't think there is a write up on it, I will walk you through what I can remember.

STart by pulling in(towards you) on the top of the door pull cut just enough to release the clips on top. when they pop free then pull it up to release the clips on the bottom. Under that panel you will find a couple of philips head screw that you need to remove. Now look on the very front of the door panel on the edge that you have probably never looked at(it faces the hood/front when the door is shut) and you will see a flat plastic pic that will be difficult to remove. This is the only part that you might need a special tool(panel popper) but you can use a flat head screw driver or a set of needle nose. Once it is out then look at the back portion of the panel, covered up by the carpet you will find a small hole with another philips head behind it. Once that is out I think you have removed all the screws and then can start to remove the panel but if one area is holding tightly check again for screws. It has been a while since mine were apart.
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:50 PM   #19
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Sandcracker, to take the doors off is very simple, but you must be very cautious not to break any of the plastic clips or ultimately your door will rattle and you will be mad everyday you drive [personal experience]. On the other hand though, you do have to show it tough love at certain times. Mainly it is simply knowing where the clips are and how they work.

Start by removing the "door cup", the part you grab to shut the door while inside of it. There is a slight groove on the top of that piece that you can pull back, and then pull upwards on the entire piece. Should pop right out. Disconnect the power controlls..

I believe there are 2 screws holding the door panel to the door itself behind that cup piece. Remove them.

Remove the dish shaped piece behind the "door pull", the handle you use to exit the car.

Ok, the tough lovin part. Grab in these newly empty spots and pull up on the entire door panel, then out. Don't go apesiht on the panel or you will brake something, but yopu should feel the panel be able to slide up, and then outwards to remove it completly.

Speakers are 5"x7", so if you are looking to replace them, that is the size. You can also put a 6"x8" in the same hole, they have a deeper shaped cone and that accounts for the extra inch while still retaining the same mounting area.

Oh, and dont break the clips!!

Edit: If you are installing deadening, use a roller. I don't think it is necessary for downward surfaces (floor), but any vertical or upside down surface is definitly a must (doors/roof). You can also use a heat source, and the roller, which will make it extra sticky. If you do it that way, once it's on there, it WONT come back off.
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:16 PM   #20
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thanks baddog and ttocs!

i will let you all know how it goes when I get started next week
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:16 PM
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