scheetz83

Hi guys My dad has a 2000 GT vert, with the Mach 460. A couple of years back he blew one of the mid bass door speakers so we went to car toys and bought a set of infinity speakers. We installed them and sounded great. Well i happens to drive the car today and noticed on some songs the front speakers where clipping. I asked him about it and to be honest i don't know if he would have noticed it anyway because once it starts to clip the speakers will only come on for a split secound before cutting out again for about 5 seconds then repeat.

Here is my question. He is planing on buying a Apline IDA X305 in the next week or so. Can i just run new wires from the deck to the doors and run the door speakers off the deck while the tweaters still funtion off the Mach Amp.

If not what is a good recommendation for a amp also If a person was to buy set of components to replace the tweeters and door speakers can you reuse the Mach 460 Tweeters housings or do you have to find a new place to mount the tweeters.

thanks guys
Michael

ttocs

the stock amps were made to run an 8 ohm woofer, replacing them with 4 ohm full range drivers make them mad....

By running new wire from the deck to the woofer you will have corrected this problem. I normally recomend hitting the bypass harness in the dash(point to it on page 2 of my cardomian page) which goes straight to the tweets. Then use the wire that goes to the tweet as your signal wire in the door and this saves you from running wires through the boots.

The stock tweeters are a strange 2.5" size. That is bigger then most componant speakers tweeters(1" for ex) so there is room to mount them there but you will need to make a bracket. Not a big deal if you have a dremel or jigsaw but the smallest actual speaker size is 4" so you can't go get a pair of those and install them.

To be honest from a sound quality(SQ) piont of view the sail panels are a bad location. It puts one half of the signal(The tweeter) and puts it 3 ft from your ears while the woofer is almost 2x as far. To get the best SQ you want to try and get the speakers isolate in one area and with the distance between your ears and the speakers the same. This is why kick panels are popular and why I went with them as they make the distance from the drivers side to the passenger side nearly equal, as long as there are no fat feet in the way.....

scheetz83

thanks for the response

I think I was following most of your cardomain page. Correct me if i am wrong but if I take the single wire from the tweets and use it on the mids in the door. I would not be using the tweets any more Correct if i am how would the Mids and High Be shot to the right speakers? In the future if i could talk him into buying a component set, I would then have to run new wires anyway right or would the stock wires work to tap in with the crossover, as long as i could find them by the kick panels Only issue with that is he HATES to cut a stock hrns

I Never did like the tweet placement of that car but the old man he just likes to crack it up with the top down and go. Some time the highs ARE way to load for me!

thanks again

ttocs

your correct that the signal would run both speakers. Capacitors are a simple way to take the bass out of the signal to the tweeter, a 1000 microfarad cap will cut the bass off at 400 hz and allow them to play the signal that they were meant to. If you get componants then you can wire the x-over into the tweeter wire and mount it in the door.

scheetz83

OK that make since. I think i can handle that! Just Y off the tweet and run it to the Mid with a capacitor between that Y and the tweeter.

thanks you have been a big help. I will probably be asking another question or two before i am done with this.

scheetz83

Hey I was just searching Google and i cant seem to find either of those wiring hrns part numbers, FD03B or FD02B. Where did you get yours


thanks

ttocs

the FDO2b is by scoshe, metra 70-1770 is the same thing. You can find these at autozone or even walmart now.

scheetz83

thanks I ordered the Alpine idax305 from sonicelectronix yesterday and it looks like they included the Scosche FDK10B / FDK10 hrns for free.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...B+-+FDK10.html

So i guess i will look for the other hrns tomorrow. forgive my dumb question, with out me actually taking the car apart, right now its hard for me to wrap my head around this 100%... By doing this bypass I am completely eliminating ALL the Mach amps or just the door mids and tweets. I am assuming that there are 3 amps one for the fronts mids and the tweets, and the other 2 are for the rear with each side having its own amp.

No that i am thinking about this, on your Cardomain page you said something about needing a line level driver for the rear channel. That would mean the rear mach amp is still being used Right? Is it possible to wire the rear speakers just buy wiring them to the rear speaker output of the deck (NOT THE RCA but the wires) or do i have to wire it to a RCA.

I am just going to have to tear it apart tomorrow and see whats what.

thanks

scheetz83

Ok ttocs, I was just in there and all i see is one gray plug on the right hand side of compartment stuck to the metal. When i unplug it it kills power to the CD player. all speakers still play. I was trying to pull the CD player but I was unable to get it out. Is there a trick to it?

Are the plugs your talking about maybe pluged in to the CD player? I looked at you pics and realized that your car did not have the CD player. Am i stuck with rewiring the car?


Basicly with this bypass i am trying to find the bone stock wiring hrns correct.?

thanks again

scheetz83

Finally got the CD player out!!! Here is what i have

The only black plug that looks like the black one that you point to in you pics goes directly into the amp, I am 99% sure it is the input side. I can isolate the wires coming off the amp that run the Tweets and the ones that go to the bass amps. Its odd because as i unplug The plugs the speakers get quieter. I first unplugged the CD player speaker output dropped buy at lest 30% then i pulled the plug on the back side of the head unit that went to the CD player speaker level dropped again. I might have gotten over my head with this one.


I am beginning to think there is no easy way to do this one!.