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going to be doing it tomorrow. thanks for all the help guys!
since my sub IS NOT wired correctly now, what is happening? im only getting 2 ohms of power? or the sub is overheating too quickly? whats up with it? its been wired wrong for 2+ years haha.. im such an idiot
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Things to do:
1) Fix exhaust leak
2) Remove isolators
3) Get rear decklid shaved and painted DONE
4) Get fog lights sprayed with black/clear mix
5) Get lower valence re-sprayed
right now, you're trying to get a 1 ohm load from an amp that cant handle it. at low volume, it kinda tolerates it, but when you start to push the amp more, it shuts off instead of burning up.
kinda like...im bad at analogies lol. like trying to do 100 mph in 2nd gear. when you do 20 in 2nd, the motor doesn't really care, but you try to do 100, and it will blow. instead of blowing, the amp just shuts down. did that make sense? am kinda drunk now too haha
dont feel like an idiot. i used to run 2 cheap 12" subs off my head unit lmao. just wanted to be the cool guy with subs, didnt have the money for an amp so I figured "hey it runs the speakers, why not the subs too" haha. then I actually learned about this stuff and felt like a douche. everybody starts somewhere, and you're already well past a few of my friends that think they know everything, but keep blowing subs and frying amps.
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2000 GT
Electric Green
5 Speed
BBK CAI
O/R X
Flowmaster 40 Series
Crappy stereo setup
Cobra "R" front end (good for 50+ hp)
No money left in my pocket
AND A FOR SALE SIGN IN THE WINDOW (need a house more than I need 3 cars)
hahaha bassfiend good analogy!! go drink some more =P
even at 1 ohm my sub was still loud...
and i had somebody help me with the install so its not TOTALLY my fault!!
so since i was going 1 ohm, is that why my amp was heating up instantly??
how could i have neglected this system so much haha.. i just figured i was pushing too much power so the amp cut. but than i figured out that it really shouldnt be doing that
im taking it apart tomorrow to re-wire, so hopefully all runs smooth tomorrow cant wait
__________________
Things to do:
1) Fix exhaust leak
2) Remove isolators
3) Get rear decklid shaved and painted DONE
4) Get fog lights sprayed with black/clear mix
5) Get lower valence re-sprayed
when you bridge your amplifier down to a lower impedence, it makes the amp put out more power, consume more power, and also burn off more power in the form of heat.
he doesn't need a capacitor... his system is not even 500wrms so he should be fine if he's running 8 gauge power and ground cables change them and go with 4 gauge. if he go any farther than 500wrms he's going to need the BIG3 upgrade and a HOA
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2004 Smoked Gray Mustang "40th Anniversary"
Pioneer Premier Avic F90BT
(2) Cerwin Vega V-Max 12.2 subs
Cerwin Vega EXL1200D amp
Alpine MRP450 amp
Alpine 6.5 2-way coaxial speakers and component set speakers
Python 872 LE 2 Way Remote Start and Security
Don't buy a capacitor. It's like putting a bandaid on a bullet wound. Upgrade the big 3, if you still need more amperage, upgrade the alternator. I'll try to find the interview where one of the presidents or VPs or stinger or some other company that makes cap's says it's a waste of money. That pretty much sums it up as far as capacitors
__________________
2000 GT
Electric Green
5 Speed
BBK CAI
O/R X
Flowmaster 40 Series
Crappy stereo setup
Cobra "R" front end (good for 50+ hp)
No money left in my pocket
AND A FOR SALE SIGN IN THE WINDOW (need a house more than I need 3 cars)
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