oldsch00lf00l

I finally have a sense of direction with my 2006 Mustang GT's sound system. I didn't log the Tang Band W4-1757SB placement in the 6x8 hole, but I did take photos of my Shaker 500 subwoofer replacement. As for the Tang Band wideband driver, imagine a 6x8 piece of ABS with a 4'' speaker in the middle of it.

First I started out with some cutting boards from Target. Unfortunately, I had a blond moment and set my Jasper Jig to cut a 8.5" hole with the 1/4" upcut bit. Can you say DOH!


After making one dumbass mistake, I finally managed to get some 8.5" rings fabricated. On the left, you have one Mach5Audio MLI-65. On the right is the Shaker 500 "subwoofer":




I used a heat gun to pull the factory grill from the stock sub. I had tried freezing the passenger's side overnight, but that didn't work out so well.


They went into place rather easily, but I had to purchase some #10 1 1/4" sheet metal screws because the stock screws were too short:





They stick out a tad bit more than stock, but, it isn't that bad.



Quick shot of the passenger's side:


This is the head unit I am using:


Subwoofer:


And this is the next area I am going to address:



At the rate I have gone through gear, I found it pointless to make the trunk look better. Until now that is.

ETA - This is my current setup:
HU - Alpine CDA-9887
Mids/Highs amp: Lunar L450
Mid/Tweet - Tang Band W4-1757SB (Playing from 315 Hz all the way up)
Midbass - Mach 5 Audio MLI-65 (Playing form 63 to 315 Hz)
Sub Amp - Clarion DPX1851
Subwoofer - JL Audio 13w6v2 Stealthbox (Playing 80 Hz and everything below it)

oldsch00lf00l

I am bumping my install thread because I finally managed to get a photo of my Tang Band W4-1757SB in the 6x8 location. It may not look the prettiest, but the baffle is stuck in place with some extruded butyl rope from sound deadener showdown!

ttocs

ya know if you made the rings holding the front speakers out of lexan/acrylic you could put some led behind it and light that ring up for a really cool effect.

looks like there are some screws holding the baffle in place, what are you talking about with the rope?

oldsch00lf00l

I used the butyl rope on the back of the baffle to form a quasi seal against the factory mount. My cuts weren't, umm, perfect, and I sealed up that hole where the wire comes through with the butyl too. Does it matter, probably not, lol!

On another note, cutting ABS with a jigsaw was a royal pain. Two slow, it chatters. Too fast, it melts. I tried clamping it to wood and cutting both but that trick only seemed to work with the router.

Iskwezm

i usually score the ABS with a Olfa knife and the snap it on the cut

ttocs

anytime you start cutting plastic you will want to go slow. Plexi/acrylic is especially bad and if yer not carefull they will crack or break completly. Sometimes it is better to use a table saw and actually turn the blade around and it has less of a chance cracking and melting. Be sure to wear long sleeves as the shavings will have a hot side, just enough to sting.

oldsch00lf00l

I learned that the hard way using my Porter Cable router on the HDPE cutting boards. Wearing shorts while doing that was a BAD idea!

lovablesteven

they look awesome

ChrisSchell

I'm getting ready to tear my head unit out and replace it. I have a metra connector and I've read that I need to solder in a capacitor or some radio shack part to eliminate popping. Is this accurate and if so, where does it solder in?

Drews10

Love the idea of keeping the stock grille, looks great!