Audio/Visual ElectronicsWired up? Everyone's got some sort of electrical modification... let's hear about it here.
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I finally have a sense of direction with my 2006 Mustang GT's sound system. I didn't log the Tang Band W4-1757SB placement in the 6x8 hole, but I did take photos of my Shaker 500 subwoofer replacement. As for the Tang Band wideband driver, imagine a 6x8 piece of ABS with a 4'' speaker in the middle of it.
First I started out with some cutting boards from Target. Unfortunately, I had a blond moment and set my Jasper Jig to cut a 8.5" hole with the 1/4" upcut bit. Can you say DOH!
After making one dumbass mistake, I finally managed to get some 8.5" rings fabricated. On the left, you have one Mach5Audio MLI-65. On the right is the Shaker 500 "subwoofer":
I used a heat gun to pull the factory grill from the stock sub. I had tried freezing the passenger's side overnight, but that didn't work out so well.
They went into place rather easily, but I had to purchase some #10 1 1/4" sheet metal screws because the stock screws were too short:
They stick out a tad bit more than stock, but, it isn't that bad.
Quick shot of the passenger's side:
This is the head unit I am using:
And this is the next area I am going to address:
At the rate I have gone through gear, I found it pointless to make the trunk look better. Until now that is.
ETA - This is my current setup:
HU - Alpine CDA-9887
Mids/Highs amp: Lunar L450
Mid/Tweet - Tang Band W4-1757SB (Playing from 315 Hz all the way up)
Midbass - Mach 5 Audio MLI-65 (Playing form 63 to 315 Hz)
Sub Amp - Clarion DPX1851
Subwoofer - JL Audio 13w6v2 Stealthbox (Playing 80 Hz and everything below it)
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Last edited by oldsch00lf00l; 12-07-2009 at 10:48 AM.
I am bumping my install thread because I finally managed to get a photo of my Tang Band W4-1757SB in the 6x8 location. It may not look the prettiest, but the baffle is stuck in place with some extruded butyl rope from sound deadener showdown!
I used the butyl rope on the back of the baffle to form a quasi seal against the factory mount. My cuts weren't, umm, perfect, and I sealed up that hole where the wire comes through with the butyl too. Does it matter, probably not, lol!
On another note, cutting ABS with a jigsaw was a royal pain. Two slow, it chatters. Too fast, it melts. I tried clamping it to wood and cutting both but that trick only seemed to work with the router.
anytime you start cutting plastic you will want to go slow. Plexi/acrylic is especially bad and if yer not carefull they will crack or break completly. Sometimes it is better to use a table saw and actually turn the blade around and it has less of a chance cracking and melting. Be sure to wear long sleeves as the shavings will have a hot side, just enough to sting.
I'm getting ready to tear my head unit out and replace it. I have a metra connector and I've read that I need to solder in a capacitor or some radio shack part to eliminate popping. Is this accurate and if so, where does it solder in?
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