New System Going in this Saturday 18th!
08-18-2010, 04:14 PM
#1
New System Going in this Saturday 18th!
Well since I got the base Mustang with no Sync/Sirius/Bluetooth I want some more boom...
So here is the system..
Kenwood Exceleron 9960 HU $1200
Hertz ESK 5x7s in front and rear $179 per pair
Custom Dual 10 inch ported box with 2 JL 10 inch W0s $250 for box build
1 600x6 JL XD amplifier to power the whole system...
I previously bought the amp and 2 subs, and am scheduled to get the darkest legal window tint on too, but the price for all this is and the install is like $2800.00 bucks... I am only fearful of installing all my stuff because the car is so new, and I have never done an AMP install before, just HUs and Speakers...
So please tell me what you all think... Should I just do the install myself? I want the Sirius radio and everything else installed too, so all the options are going in now... I still feel like the price is a little ridiculous.. What do you all think?
So here is the system..
Kenwood Exceleron 9960 HU $1200
Hertz ESK 5x7s in front and rear $179 per pair
Custom Dual 10 inch ported box with 2 JL 10 inch W0s $250 for box build
1 600x6 JL XD amplifier to power the whole system...
I previously bought the amp and 2 subs, and am scheduled to get the darkest legal window tint on too, but the price for all this is and the install is like $2800.00 bucks... I am only fearful of installing all my stuff because the car is so new, and I have never done an AMP install before, just HUs and Speakers...
So please tell me what you all think... Should I just do the install myself? I want the Sirius radio and everything else installed too, so all the options are going in now... I still feel like the price is a little ridiculous.. What do you all think?
08-18-2010, 07:08 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: over yonder
Posts: 1,185
Definitely install yourself. Obviously you still gotta pay for the box but the install is easy, especially the amp. If you get stuck and need help after you start just make another thread here, plenty of ppl to help ya.
Also you're gonna need the mustang wiring harness for the HU. As well as a dash kit since it's a double din HU (I'm assuming you don't have the factory nav). Metra sells one (I believe the only one out as of now for the 10's) it costs like $250.00ish if I remember right and replaces your stock climate controls. The only problem is, it's a little cheap looking, at least the buttons are.-
But thats all there seems to be atm.
Lastly if you're unsure how to take your dash apart (needs adobe reader, 2 sec dload from adobe.com if you don't have it) the metra .pdf shows you how- http://metradealer.com/files/products/INST99-5823CH.pdf
Also you're gonna need the mustang wiring harness for the HU. As well as a dash kit since it's a double din HU (I'm assuming you don't have the factory nav). Metra sells one (I believe the only one out as of now for the 10's) it costs like $250.00ish if I remember right and replaces your stock climate controls. The only problem is, it's a little cheap looking, at least the buttons are.-
But thats all there seems to be atm.Lastly if you're unsure how to take your dash apart (needs adobe reader, 2 sec dload from adobe.com if you don't have it) the metra .pdf shows you how- http://metradealer.com/files/products/INST99-5823CH.pdf
Last edited by MOOK3456; 08-18-2010 at 07:17 PM.
08-18-2010, 09:46 PM
#3
Yeah... Like I said I am mostly worried about the amp install.. I will see on Saturday when I get the final price how much I am actually being charged on the install. If it is under $300 I think I will let them do it, if it isn't, then I guess I will be on the phone with crutchfield and JL for a bit haha..
08-19-2010, 03:04 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: over yonder
Posts: 1,185
08-24-2010, 12:34 AM
#8
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MT
Posts: 93
What's the worry with the amp install? I've got the sub amp in my Suby mounted right to the back of the box, works just fine and cost me under $1 to get some wood screws from ACE to do it.
EDIT: Reading through it again...are you running the speakers off the same amp as your subs? I really wouldn't do this, for the best sound you're going to want the low pass filter on the amp powering the subs to be in the neighborhood of 80Hz. At 80Hz you are getting just bass, no vocals or instrumentals. The speakers should be powered off their own amp, ideally with the high pass filter set at 80Hz so all the bass goes to your subs and all the mids and highs are produced by your speakers (and the really low stuff is the easiest way to blow a speaker).
It sounds like you're worried about not just mounting of the amp, but the installation as a whole. You're going to need to match your wiring to the wattage you are going to be running but it sounds to me like 4 gauge wire is going to be right up your alley. Next, you need to take the fuse rating of the fuse(s) on your amp and total it up, this is the amperage of the fuse you need right at the battery. Leave the fuse at the battery out until you are ready to power it up. Once you have the fuse removed and the wire attached at the battery you need to start taking the interior apart. This isn't as scary as it sounds, you just need to be careful and take your time. The rocker panel (the plastic piece that runs alongside the seat) and the kick panel will need to be removed, odds are there are some little plastic pins holding them in. I usually pry these out with needle nose pliers then set aside where you won't lose them. There will likely be additional clips holding parts in, just pull and it'll come loose. Pull the carpet as far out of the way as possible and find a good spot in the firewall to drill a hole, then you need to drill the hole for the power wire to go through (I highly recommend using a step bit, then putting a grommet on the hole to protect the wire). Then you can pull the wire through the firewall and into the cabin.
New paragraph to make this a little easier to follow:
Now that the main power wire is in the cabin, you need to remove the rear seat. I don't know how to do this on a '11 but on my '02 it had pretty simple little clips that just needed a screwdriver to release. Run the wire under where the seat was and run it into the trunk (preferably under all the carpet and everything, I hate messy installs). Now that the power wire is in the trunk you need to focus on the signal wire and the remote turn-on wire. These come out of the head unit and will need to be routed in a similar fashion to the power wire. I prefer to run it on the opposite side of the power wire to keep interference down though some people say they don't get interference running their signal wires right next to their power wires. You can choose which way you want to do it, running them with the power wire would be easier but you run the risk of getting a "buzz" from the high current flowing through the power wire. Once that's all done it's very easy. Some amps need you to put terminals on the end of your wire, I have a pack of Yellow ones from Wal Mart that worked great on my Sony amp (Yellow is a size as well as color). Preferably your amp will be like my Rockford amp where you feed bare wire into the amp and screw down the terminals. It all looks and sounds intimidating but I've only done my '04 Subaru and my '02 Mustang and it really isn't as tough as I thought it would be. The biggest pain is routing the wires through the interior, there are going to be some tight places and difficult angles.
EDIT: Reading through it again...are you running the speakers off the same amp as your subs? I really wouldn't do this, for the best sound you're going to want the low pass filter on the amp powering the subs to be in the neighborhood of 80Hz. At 80Hz you are getting just bass, no vocals or instrumentals. The speakers should be powered off their own amp, ideally with the high pass filter set at 80Hz so all the bass goes to your subs and all the mids and highs are produced by your speakers (and the really low stuff is the easiest way to blow a speaker).
It sounds like you're worried about not just mounting of the amp, but the installation as a whole. You're going to need to match your wiring to the wattage you are going to be running but it sounds to me like 4 gauge wire is going to be right up your alley. Next, you need to take the fuse rating of the fuse(s) on your amp and total it up, this is the amperage of the fuse you need right at the battery. Leave the fuse at the battery out until you are ready to power it up. Once you have the fuse removed and the wire attached at the battery you need to start taking the interior apart. This isn't as scary as it sounds, you just need to be careful and take your time. The rocker panel (the plastic piece that runs alongside the seat) and the kick panel will need to be removed, odds are there are some little plastic pins holding them in. I usually pry these out with needle nose pliers then set aside where you won't lose them. There will likely be additional clips holding parts in, just pull and it'll come loose. Pull the carpet as far out of the way as possible and find a good spot in the firewall to drill a hole, then you need to drill the hole for the power wire to go through (I highly recommend using a step bit, then putting a grommet on the hole to protect the wire). Then you can pull the wire through the firewall and into the cabin.
New paragraph to make this a little easier to follow:
Now that the main power wire is in the cabin, you need to remove the rear seat. I don't know how to do this on a '11 but on my '02 it had pretty simple little clips that just needed a screwdriver to release. Run the wire under where the seat was and run it into the trunk (preferably under all the carpet and everything, I hate messy installs). Now that the power wire is in the trunk you need to focus on the signal wire and the remote turn-on wire. These come out of the head unit and will need to be routed in a similar fashion to the power wire. I prefer to run it on the opposite side of the power wire to keep interference down though some people say they don't get interference running their signal wires right next to their power wires. You can choose which way you want to do it, running them with the power wire would be easier but you run the risk of getting a "buzz" from the high current flowing through the power wire. Once that's all done it's very easy. Some amps need you to put terminals on the end of your wire, I have a pack of Yellow ones from Wal Mart that worked great on my Sony amp (Yellow is a size as well as color). Preferably your amp will be like my Rockford amp where you feed bare wire into the amp and screw down the terminals. It all looks and sounds intimidating but I've only done my '04 Subaru and my '02 Mustang and it really isn't as tough as I thought it would be. The biggest pain is routing the wires through the interior, there are going to be some tight places and difficult angles.
Last edited by Unsullied_Spy; 08-24-2010 at 01:02 AM.
08-24-2010, 09:11 PM
#9
Well its a 6 channel amp that can independently filter each channel so I know it will work, I was just nervous about its set up. It has TOO many options for me to understand. But the shop is cutting me such a deal that if i bought everything at crutfield and did it myself it would be more expensive..
08-24-2010, 09:32 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: over yonder
Posts: 1,185
Yeah it's fine to run it that way. Not as efficient for sure but it will work just fine. One thing though, you're going to be running two 300w RMS (600w peak) subs. Even with bridging the last two channels (if I'm thinking of this correctly) you're only going to be feeding them like 100w RMS (200w peak) each with that amp.
But you can always add an amp later if you wanna push 'em a little better.
Also, no need to drill into your firewall. There's already a hole right beside your brake booster (big round thing on the firewall) on the drivers side. Just run the wire along the firewall from pass to drivers side and slice a hole in the rubber grommet. No need to remove your back seat either. The wires can be easily tucked under from the side.
But you can always add an amp later if you wanna push 'em a little better.
Also, no need to drill into your firewall. There's already a hole right beside your brake booster (big round thing on the firewall) on the drivers side. Just run the wire along the firewall from pass to drivers side and slice a hole in the rubber grommet. No need to remove your back seat either. The wires can be easily tucked under from the side.
Last edited by MOOK3456; 08-24-2010 at 09:39 PM.