Best/cleanest way to link in to factory NAV system?
11-03-2010, 03:24 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: California
Posts: 10
Best/cleanest way to link in to factory NAV system?
I have a 2011 GT with the Navigation and Shaker 500. I plan to upgrade the audio by keeping the navigation head unit but replacing everything else, including adding a sound processor to where I tap into the factory system.
Basically, the system will look like:
factory-->sound proc.-->5 ch. amp-->speakers&sub
I have 2 questions:
1) What is the best way to tap into the factory system? I've been looking for a harness, and I've seen one for Shaker 500, but nothing that mentions the NAV unit. And it seems that the NAV unit changes some of the wiring.
Has anyone worked with the new NAV units or can suggest the proper harness to add an amp to the NAV system?
2) I want to give the sound processor 2 channels of full-range signals. Does anyone know if the font left/right from the nav are full range or have been filtered? I guess I'm doubting they are full range and plan to run both the front component and the front Shaker "subwoofer" channels to the sound processor. But I've read the subwoofers both use the Left channel only, so if the fronts are already full-range signals, I'd rather leave the Shaker subs off.
The grand vision from there is some Focal components in the front with the 8" Kicker shallow subs a'la the Shelby system in the Shaker front sub locations, forming a 3-way with the Focals. Then there will be a 13" sub in the trunk for the really low base. I'm pretty excited about the project, and I just want to make the cleanest/best connection in to the factory system that I can.
(The first time I did such a project, I went all aftermarket, and that was easier--no worrying about already filtered signals and factory equalization...ptuey!)
Greg
Basically, the system will look like:
factory-->sound proc.-->5 ch. amp-->speakers&sub
I have 2 questions:
1) What is the best way to tap into the factory system? I've been looking for a harness, and I've seen one for Shaker 500, but nothing that mentions the NAV unit. And it seems that the NAV unit changes some of the wiring.
Has anyone worked with the new NAV units or can suggest the proper harness to add an amp to the NAV system?
2) I want to give the sound processor 2 channels of full-range signals. Does anyone know if the font left/right from the nav are full range or have been filtered? I guess I'm doubting they are full range and plan to run both the front component and the front Shaker "subwoofer" channels to the sound processor. But I've read the subwoofers both use the Left channel only, so if the fronts are already full-range signals, I'd rather leave the Shaker subs off.
The grand vision from there is some Focal components in the front with the 8" Kicker shallow subs a'la the Shelby system in the Shaker front sub locations, forming a 3-way with the Focals. Then there will be a 13" sub in the trunk for the really low base. I'm pretty excited about the project, and I just want to make the cleanest/best connection in to the factory system that I can.
(The first time I did such a project, I went all aftermarket, and that was easier--no worrying about already filtered signals and factory equalization...ptuey!)
Greg
11-09-2010, 09:54 AM
#2
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: AB, Canada
Posts: 2
Hi, I'm planning to install a similar system in my car in the next week. Although I have the non-nav system and shaker 1000. I am going to be using a JBL MS-8 for oem integration. Not the cheapest solution but it fits my needs. According to this post http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-post4146.html the speaker lvl outputs of the headunit are filtered so you will need to sum them with the subwoofer outputs to get a full signal. I ordered a PGHFD1 harness to hack into to get my source signals. This harness isn't designed for this but i figured it would work because it plugs in between the headunit and factory harness. I haven't received it yet so I don't know for sure.
11-10-2010, 02:30 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: California
Posts: 10
Ah, that's a good couple marathon threads to read. I should have done more searching on just ms-8, rather than putting "2011 mustang" in everything. Anyway, after reading some of that, I wonder if I shouldn't also try keeping the 5 channels as I planned, and adding 2 channels from the MS-8 for the factory rears with logic 7 enabled. Previously, I was planning to skip the rears and use the ms-8 with logic 7 disabled.
I suppose if I go ahead and run the wires, it's simple enough to compare both ways, so maybe I'll do that and pick whichever sounds best to me. It doesn't even sound like it would help much to upgrade the rears with good coax's, given how they are used by the logic 7. It can't hurt, but it doesn't sound necessary.
At this point, I'm thinking there is no way I'm going to try adding a center channel, despite the possible benefits. I'm not up to that level of modding yet.
I hope you will post any changes/tuning you did to your system after the install and what you think of the results!
(I'm still waiting on my mustang to come in, but I've started collecting my aftermarket upgrade parts...)
I suppose if I go ahead and run the wires, it's simple enough to compare both ways, so maybe I'll do that and pick whichever sounds best to me. It doesn't even sound like it would help much to upgrade the rears with good coax's, given how they are used by the logic 7. It can't hurt, but it doesn't sound necessary.
At this point, I'm thinking there is no way I'm going to try adding a center channel, despite the possible benefits. I'm not up to that level of modding yet.
I hope you will post any changes/tuning you did to your system after the install and what you think of the results!
(I'm still waiting on my mustang to come in, but I've started collecting my aftermarket upgrade parts...)
11-10-2010, 12:57 PM
#4
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: AB, Canada
Posts: 2
I'm also undecided about the rear channels. Surround sound with music has never turned my crank but it seams alot of ppl like the L7 processing. Like you, I won't be doing a center channel, I want to keep the interior as stock looking as possible and the thought of cutting up the dash makes me queasy. I want the MS-8 more for its de-eq/ta/auto-tuning features.
All my stuff has come in so I'll probably do the install this weekend
. I'm going with Alpine spx-13pro components that are reused from a prev. system in the 5x7 location and Dayton rs225-4's in the lower doors for mid-base. I'm using a Jl XD600/6 with each driver getting its own channel. For sub-base I'm going to try driving the Shaker 1000 amps and subs from the MS-8. If this doesn't work out I have a Focal 11" boxed sub and Solid1 amp to use but I want to keep it as simple as I can for now.
All my stuff has come in so I'll probably do the install this weekend
. I'm going with Alpine spx-13pro components that are reused from a prev. system in the 5x7 location and Dayton rs225-4's in the lower doors for mid-base. I'm using a Jl XD600/6 with each driver getting its own channel. For sub-base I'm going to try driving the Shaker 1000 amps and subs from the MS-8. If this doesn't work out I have a Focal 11" boxed sub and Solid1 amp to use but I want to keep it as simple as I can for now.
11-10-2010, 05:14 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
honestly fellas I would never design a system around the stock head unit. The loading/unloading mechanism in the disc changer has ALWAYS been the weak link in the chain that give up and you will always limit your system with a weak head unit. After you drop $500 in the JBL piece, 3 yrs from now when the deck goes out you will be stuck lookin at factory replacements for probably 3-400 with the nav and changer and good for another 3-4 years. You will not only get better performance from a good aftermarket replacment as well as a better track record for durability and it will probably be cheaper in the long run.
11-11-2010, 02:19 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: California
Posts: 10
Prior to this project, I never would have upgraded around the factory system, either. I think it's worth trying this time to retain the voice-recognition Sync system, mykey, mycolor, and other functions performed by the nav computer. So, I'm going to give it my best try to reach nirvana with the factory head unit. I think it can be done.
I would use the ms-8 either way because I'm interested in the auto-tune and stereo imaging features, so nothing is being wasted. If, in the end, I can't get the system the way I want, I'll go ahead and rip out the factory head unit down the road and solve that last road block. Personally, though, I think I can make this system rock as long as I get the ms-8 two solid full-range channels.
...and there's no CD changer with the nav unit...
The hard drive is the weakest link now. But don't worry, if the factory unit dies an early death, it will get replaced with something better...
Back to the technical--the wiring diagrams for the nav system have one major difference, besides the different head unit. The nav computer outputs four preamp signals for the front/rear instead of line-level like the regular Shaker. Those 4 signals go to a 4-channel amp, and then to the front/rear speakers. So I'm going to use those preamp signals for the ms-8. If I'm lucky, when I test them, I'll find out they are full-range and the filtering is all in the amplifier, rather than being in the nav computer, saving me from having to use the mono mid-bass signal. (fingers crossed)
Have fun on the install, linelock--I hope it goes smoothly.
I would use the ms-8 either way because I'm interested in the auto-tune and stereo imaging features, so nothing is being wasted. If, in the end, I can't get the system the way I want, I'll go ahead and rip out the factory head unit down the road and solve that last road block. Personally, though, I think I can make this system rock as long as I get the ms-8 two solid full-range channels.
...and there's no CD changer with the nav unit...
The hard drive is the weakest link now. But don't worry, if the factory unit dies an early death, it will get replaced with something better...Back to the technical--the wiring diagrams for the nav system have one major difference, besides the different head unit. The nav computer outputs four preamp signals for the front/rear instead of line-level like the regular Shaker. Those 4 signals go to a 4-channel amp, and then to the front/rear speakers. So I'm going to use those preamp signals for the ms-8. If I'm lucky, when I test them, I'll find out they are full-range and the filtering is all in the amplifier, rather than being in the nav computer, saving me from having to use the mono mid-bass signal. (fingers crossed)
Have fun on the install, linelock--I hope it goes smoothly.
07-19-2013, 01:53 AM
#7
Prior to this project, I never would have upgraded around the factory system, either. I think it's worth trying this time to retain the voice-recognition Sync system, mykey, mycolor, and other functions performed by the nav computer. So, I'm going to give it my best try to reach nirvana with the factory head unit. I think it can be done.
I would use the ms-8 either way because I'm interested in the auto-tune and stereo imaging features, so nothing is being wasted. If, in the end, I can't get the system the way I want, I'll go ahead and rip out the factory head unit down the road and solve that last road block. Personally, though, I think I can make this system rock as long as I get the ms-8 two solid full-range channels.
...and there's no CD changer with the nav unit... The hard drive is the weakest link now. But don't worry, if the factory unit dies an early death, it will get replaced with something better...
Back to the technical--the wiring diagrams for the nav system have one major difference, besides the different head unit. The nav computer outputs four preamp signals for the front/rear instead of line-level like the regular Shaker. Those 4 signals go to a 4-channel amp, and then to the front/rear speakers. So I'm going to use those preamp signals for the ms-8. If I'm lucky, when I test them, I'll find out they are full-range and the filtering is all in the amplifier, rather than being in the nav computer, saving me from having to use the mono mid-bass signal. (fingers crossed)
Have fun on the install, linelock--I hope it goes smoothly.
I would use the ms-8 either way because I'm interested in the auto-tune and stereo imaging features, so nothing is being wasted. If, in the end, I can't get the system the way I want, I'll go ahead and rip out the factory head unit down the road and solve that last road block. Personally, though, I think I can make this system rock as long as I get the ms-8 two solid full-range channels.
...and there's no CD changer with the nav unit...
The hard drive is the weakest link now. But don't worry, if the factory unit dies an early death, it will get replaced with something better...Back to the technical--the wiring diagrams for the nav system have one major difference, besides the different head unit. The nav computer outputs four preamp signals for the front/rear instead of line-level like the regular Shaker. Those 4 signals go to a 4-channel amp, and then to the front/rear speakers. So I'm going to use those preamp signals for the ms-8. If I'm lucky, when I test them, I'll find out they are full-range and the filtering is all in the amplifier, rather than being in the nav computer, saving me from having to use the mono mid-bass signal. (fingers crossed)
Have fun on the install, linelock--I hope it goes smoothly.
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