NJ3

I used a 1N4005. You wired it into the wire on the 8 pin connector, right? See the PDF. It's the one that to two pins on the connector.
I may have screwed you up it's been a while since I've been in the wiring for this.

mybeststangever

Hello Guys, newby here. 06 Stang GT Conv, Auto, Shaker 500. I know this thread has been here a while, but I am just reading it now, because I am new here, and getting ready to install the Avic x940bt, along with Koolertron BU camera, and wri-p and cd-r510. I have all the parts now along with the Scosche FDSR harness. Can someone please clarify this one question for me. DOES the 1n4005 diode get wired in between the amps output signal circuit and FDSR's return input wire to the module with the cathode side closest to the amp. And if so what color wire is that?. I understand the blue/white wire from the radio harness mates to the blue/white wire on the FDSR which then goes into the module. Is it this blue white wire that gets the diode, or is it the green/white wire coming out of the module which then splits into three wires, 2 of which go to the eight pin connector, and the other 1 goes to the largest main connector. If it is the green/white wire that gets the diode, I assume I would wire it in before it splits into 3 with the cathode side facing the amp away from the module.
Sorry to make it so long, but I have read it both ways on this thread, and hope to simplify it for myself
Thanks for any help--Semper Fi

wayne613

The last few people to post/ask I think were confusing the reset issue with the voltage reduction fix for the factory system without the specialized PAC or Scosche CAN-BUS harnesses; or the NJ3 guy was remembering the fix wrong.

Unless the SWC line color has changed recently, the fix is still EXACTLY the same in the tech brief from PAC. Cut the "SWC output" line somewhere where you can wire in, solder, and heat shrink the diode, done.

The wiring for both units are exactly the same btw. Wiring, colors, the lot. I've not looked further into it, but either some shenanigans going on there, some money changed hands for one to market as their own, or there will likely be lawyers involved later...

The tech bulletin by "PAC":
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...lletin_002.pdf

The manual for the scosche version:
http://www.scosche.com/ecom/download/FDSR.pdf

The manual for the PAC:
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_051908.pdf


Note any differences between the above 2 manuals? Not a single one.

So, what you wanna do is clip that wire as shown in the tech bulletin, and wire/solder-in the diode as shown on the white with green stripe wire.

mybeststangever

Thank you wayne, the link for the fix from pac is a clear as could be.

mybeststangever

Hello again, don't think this is off topic, but if it is I apologize. I have 2 questions left if there is anyone out there that can offer some advice.
1, if you do the bypass, by moving the mute wire, and grounding it along with the green pkg brk wire, I assume you can ignore the red/wht pkg brk wire on the fdsr harness. Am I right?
2, Since there are no other aux monitors, rse, or additional monitors or such in the car or going to be installed later, other than the BU camera, which has it's own dedicated brown rca input on the 940bt harness, can I cut off all the other rca wires on both the 940's harness, and the fdsr's, without something not functioning properly. I am thinking I can, am i right.
Thanks for any input--Semper Fi

wayne613

1. Yes
2. I would leave the RCA and all remaining wires unmolested not only until you're sure, but you may wish to add on later, or upgrade the head-unit. Just use heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape with a zip-tie(to keep end from unraveling) to keep the unused ends isolated/insulated.

mybeststangever

Hello Guys, I finally completed my install of the avic940bt, koolertron bu camera, pac wri-p, cd-r510, and the scosche fdsr, in the 2006 Stang GT Conv. Here are a few of my conclusions.
The toughest part of the job was getting the connectors off of the hvac controls. But I did it without breaking anything. Another tough part was working to connect everything up in the small space which is now filled with wires. Oh and buy the way, my radio had the old style antenna connector, BUT I still needed an extension for the cable, because the stock ford antenna cable would not reach the x940bt's hole. It was on the opposite side of the radio than the stock radio, and the cable was about 2" short. So I had to hustle to find an extension. The x940 performs really well, it is super clear, and the bass is clean and strong. I did wire in the diode in the wht/grn line with the stripe facing the amp. So far no reboot even cranked way up. I am still playing with the hu's settings, there are so many ways to go, that I am enjoying the exoerience figuriong it all out. The bu camera performs fairly well, although the colors are a bit bland, but for 14.00 I'm not complaining. The fdsr is the way to go, as it retains all of the oem functions, including vss speed , and retained power.
Sorry for the ramble, but I wanted to give a few of my experiences installing this unit to help any others that may want to try it.
I do have 1 question, are the shaker 500 subs in the front door or in the rear panels in the convt. I get great strong base, but it sounds like it is coming predominantly from the rear panels.
Thanks for all your help--Semper FI

mybeststangever

Hello Guys, I figured out why the front subs were not working. I'm sure you guys that have done some of these mods would not have made this mistake, but us dufusses have to figure it out the hard way.Anyway here is the answer.
While I wired up the scosche fdsr properly to the avic x940bt harness, with a diode inline with the wht/gr wire coming from the module, and the bl/wht wire from the fdsr to the bl/wht wire from the x940bt harness, that only turns on the amps. What I missed was to connect the rca cables from the fdsr 8 pin connector to the actual head unit's L&R sub output, which is on the back of the unit not on the harness. If there were no L&R sub output, then you could use the rear output of the hu. Anyway, Once I plugged the rca's in, walla. The sound is clean, clear, and deep, all subs are firing now, and even cranked to the point that my ears were saying no more, no reboot. Hope this helps someone to not make the same mistake.
SEMPER FI