tbroecker01

Today I tried to help my friend who has a base 2010 V6 with the base sound system install an amplifier and subwoofer. We had the system wired up and sounding pretty good outside of the car, but when we put the amp and subwoofer in the trunk, it worked for about 15 minutes, then the right rear speaker of the car quit working completely.

When this happened, we unplugged everything we had just installed to make sure we didn't short something out, still nothing.

We were able to determine that the speaker still works by connecting the left speaker connector to the right speaker, which produced sound.

We were using an amp with speaker level inputs. The other 3 speakers (LF, LR, and RF) still work fine. Did we damage the RR circuit coming from the factory radio or the speaker connector itself??

Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
--Tracy

Shaft

How did you tap into the speaker wires to get your signal for the amp? If you crossed some of the wires then that often will burn out internal components in the factory radio or amp. If you tried to tap into the wires directly into the speaker connector, then I would think you probably damaged it.

ttocs

we need to know more about the install as he asked. Where did you make the connection for signal as well as how, what kind of connections? Use a line out converter or feed the high pass signal into it. Pics are always helpfu.

tbroecker01

He had already tapped into the speaker wires, before the speaker connector, by the time I arrived at his house. I told him that wasn't the way to go and to get a line out converter, he didn't want to listen to any of that and was positive that he hooked his wires up correctly, apparently not.

The system was working fine, then the right side rear speaker just quit working, everything else works.

He has made an appointment at the dealership to have it looked at next week tuesday.

Is there a self test that can be done to the 2010 radio to see if everything's working properly?? I know on older radios there is.

Since his stereo isn't working properly, because of HIS install, I finally convinced him to get a line-out converter, and do it the CORRECT way next time. Hopefully, it's not too hard of a lesson he'll have to learn. In other words, hopefully the radio is fine.

He's got a line-out converter on order.

ttocs

did he use a proper connection method or just strip and twist and no tape/insulator? Sounds like he lost a channel on the amp. Putting in a loc rather then using high level inputs reallys isn't any better, the amp has it built in. The only real advantage is if you put it up front under the deck and run rca's back but all the amatures stick them in back where it really isn't a clean signal. Putting in an loc will also not work to fix what has been done. Time to go shopping for new decks and now you will not need an loc............

tbroecker01

He stripped the stock wires and then soldered the connections in-line.

I understand that a loc won't do much good now, since that channel is probably toast. He plans on installing one after the system gets fixed.

He doesn't want to buy an aftermarket deck, he wants to retain the stock equipment, just wants a little more bass.

The amp he has is only a 60x2 alpine and that's just enough to power the 2 JL Audio 10" subs he has in mind for the trunk.

tbroecker01

Here's a link to the Line-Out Converter that he has on order. I recommended it to him because I saw it installed in a member's vehicle here.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C-SNI-45T.html

WHEN his system gets fixed and we go to install the amplifier PROPERLY, what are the rear speaker wire colors for left & right??

ttocs

I never memorized any colors, I would just peak at the speakers in the back and write down the colors I saw. They will be the same up front. Pay attention to how the plug is plugged in and designate one side as positive and make it the same on both sides to ensure the subs are in phase.

I hope that is a 60 watt rms power and not max or you are underpowering those subs and I have seen many many subs meet their end this way. I would really recomend taking one out and bridging the amp and you will probalby have better SQ as with 60 watts those things will run out of power pretty quick.

sorry to hear he is going to spend money to repair the factory deck. If he is that set on keeping it, he will be doing it more often then he wants. The indash changers are known to be lucky to make past the warrenty phase before they lock up and take his favorite disks. Pretty sure they are in with the recording industry and programmed it to do this so you would have to buy them again.

tbroecker01

The amp is rated for 60x2 rms power, but the subs are low end JL Audio and are rated on the low side for power because when we hooked up a 300watt amp (150x2) and had it set on the lowest settings, the bass started to distort at higher volume.

He's rather have the factory deck functional in case he ever sells the car or trades it in. He's modded the car a bit and has kept all the factory parts except one.

His 2010 base V6 is Sterling Gray Metallic in color with a white tape stripe. He has added 2010 Pony Package foglights, side skirts, Magnaflow exhaust, Rousch rear valance, GT500 spoiler, BBK Cold Air Intake, and black GT500 wheels. He's kept AmericanMuscle.com in business this year because that's were he's bought some stuff, also from V6mustangstuff.com when it was in business.

Since he is not interested in aftermarket decks, I'm just looking to get some information on how to PROPERLY add his amp and subs to his base model 4-speaker stereo system, so that when his deck gets fixed, we don't have this issue again. I've installed a few systems in my previous cars, but they all had aftermarket decks with RCAs, so the install was easier. With that I have an idea on what I'm doing, just not with intergrating stuff to the factory equipment. So any information or links you can provide will be helpful.

ttocs

its no wonder the bass would start to distort on the bigger amp with the gain turned down because at that point it is probably putting out less power then the 60 x 2. AFter installing for over 10 yrs I will always overpower a sub and keep the signal clean rather then underpowering it. The bass was muddy because the sub was starved for power. 10s will be fine with 150 to each, just keep the signal clean and out of clipping/distortion and they will sound better too.

LOCs are not hard.. There is normally 4-5 wires to hook up, 4 speaker and then a brown/black ground wire if needed when there is noise. Look at the bottom of the rear speakers and write down the wire colors. Now go up front and find those wires and connect them there and run the rca back. You can tapp the 12v switched wire for the remote turn on. IF when yer done you hear any noise(with the motor running) then try grounding that last brown/black wire.

ohhhhhhhhh its a grey car with white stripes that shops at amer muscle no wonder its not working....... Those are never as easy as a red car that goes to autozone.