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2013 Shaker System Subwoofer Changes (Pics)

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Old 08-12-2012, 04:35 AM
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Surfergeek
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Default 2013 Shaker System Subwoofer Changes (Pics)

Hi Guys,

I just swapped out the door subwoofers in my 2013 Mustang GT Premium with the Shaker System.

I put in the Shelby Kicker Subs and will be running an amp to them. I understand these Kicker subs are 2 ohms.

Ford appears to have changed the subwoofers with the 2013 Shaker system, and this was a surprise to me, I hadn't run across pictures or mentions of the new subs on any of the forums I joined since getting my Mustang.

The subs that came out of my car are similar in appearance to the old ones (same tiny magnet, still dual voice coil)

But they have a new label:

2/2 Ohms 35W/35W Made in China ... DR3T - 18808 BD35B8 GEWAA



....


Just wanted to share this info that I hadn't read anywhere else in case it might be useful to someone.

It's painfully obvious that the factory amp in the 2013 GT Shaker System is really under powered for the Shelby Kicker Sub upgrades.

Thus I will be amping them and my audio upgrade will be complete.

Focal Integration in the front doors
Focal Polyglass in the rear deck (of a 2006 vintage)
Kicker Shelby 8" Door Subs
Memphis Audio 12" in a sealed box in the spare tire well
Audison Bit 10 for EQ

For Power:
Arc Audio XDI 600.1
Arc Audio XDI 800.5

It's phenomenal and sounds so much better than the factory system!
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Old 08-12-2012, 05:05 PM
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jdilla42
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Nice, congrats on the purchase and upgrade! That magnet looks super weak/undersized so I'm sure you're getting much more out of the bottom end of the system now.
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Old 08-13-2012, 06:03 PM
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Frustration
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Factory head unit??
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:48 AM
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Yup ... all off the factory Shaker / Nav Head Unit ... Sync / bluetooth / etc... all working perfectly.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:50 PM
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How did you go about retaining your SYNC voice prompts and sounds for the NAV?

In my '11 I went with the Shelby Kicker subs/speakers all around and using a zx350.4 amp to drive them all with a Kicker LOC and KX3 Crossover, but I lost my SYNC voice when I did the swap; still using the factory nav HU though. I suspect the prompts are on the front channel only, as I only tapped the rear speakers to the amp.
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:51 AM
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That's Correct.

Voice Prompts are on the front channel only. In fact, when the voice prompts come on during navigation with my current set-up the music can be heard through the rear channels.

The shop that did my install said they took the signal after the factory amps and ran it to the audison which takes a high level input, because if they took it before the amp, there was no volume control.

Wired as such:

Front and Rear off the factory amp go into the Audison Bit 10 and then go to Arc Audio 5 channel. All audio tuning is done through the bit 10. We could run a sub off of the bit 10, but the factory head unit outputs have a filter on them that takes out all the bass that should have gone to the sub channel so running subs off the bit 10 and maintaining full control over front and rear was not an option.

Factory Sub output gets split and goes to sub channel on Arc Audio 5 channel for 12" in the trunk and to Arc Audio sub amp powering the Shelby Kicker door subs. EQ and level control for the sub channels is handled through built-in amp crossovers and level is done by bass control ***** integrated into the dash panel.
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Surfergeek
That's Correct.

Voice Prompts are on the front channel only. In fact, when the voice prompts come on during navigation with my current set-up the music can be heard through the rear channels.

The shop that did my install said they took the signal after the factory amps and ran it to the audison which takes a high level input, because if they took it before the amp, there was no volume control.

Wired as such:

Front and Rear off the factory amp go into the Audison Bit 10 and then go to Arc Audio 5 channel. All audio tuning is done through the bit 10. We could run a sub off of the bit 10, but the factory head unit outputs have a filter on them that takes out all the bass that should have gone to the sub channel so running subs off the bit 10 and maintaining full control over front and rear was not an option.

Factory Sub output gets split and goes to sub channel on Arc Audio 5 channel for 12" in the trunk and to Arc Audio sub amp powering the Shelby Kicker door subs. EQ and level control for the sub channels is handled through built-in amp crossovers and level is done by bass control ***** integrated into the dash panel.
So how would one go about getting the mute feature SYNC employs to cut the sound from the rear so you can hear the SYNC prompts? Your system is wired essentially the same as mine, save for yours taps both the front and rear. I decided on just the rears because the rears are the ones that get the full range only. The fronts cut at around 100-120Hz if I remember correctly. When I did my install I used a signal generator through the AUX port of the factory HU to decipher this. I also found that the factory HU begins cutting bass out of the entire sound (front and rear) range at about 70% volume.

Last edited by 11GTdriver; 08-25-2012 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:05 AM
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I have no problems hearing the sync prompts on mine. I keep my rears just as fill, I hear all the sync prompts. The rear is very faint when the sync prompts come on, all muting works for all four speakers for cell calls, etc...

I would imagine that because my Audison just sits in between headunit and amplifiers that nothing is really different, all muting, sync commands etc, work as if nothing were changed.

We discovered the factory cut on the EQ in the process as well, thus how I ended up with my system as described above. Thanks for the info on the frequencies and volume cut, that's about where we guessed it to be without taking formal measurements.

So far the limited control from the amplifier crossovers and bass volume ***** seems to be enough to dial in the 12" sub in the trunk and the 8" in the doors. But would be interesting to see if I could pull the sub-channel off the rear through the audison and have full EQ.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Surfergeek
I have no problems hearing the sync prompts on mine. I keep my rears just as fill, I hear all the sync prompts. The rear is very faint when the sync prompts come on, all muting works for all four speakers for cell calls, etc...

I would imagine that because my Audison just sits in between headunit and amplifiers that nothing is really different, all muting, sync commands etc, work as if nothing were changed.

We discovered the factory cut on the EQ in the process as well, thus how I ended up with my system as described above. Thanks for the info on the frequencies and volume cut, that's about where we guessed it to be without taking formal measurements.

So far the limited control from the amplifier crossovers and bass volume ***** seems to be enough to dial in the 12" sub in the trunk and the 8" in the doors. But would be interesting to see if I could pull the sub-channel off the rear through the audison and have full EQ.
Factory Rear Speaker High Level taps --> Kicker ZXSUM8 LOC --> Kicker zx350.4 --> Kicker KX3 crossover --> To Front/Rear/Subs. I have one channel dedicated to the 8" subs running around 100w each. The other on the amp drives the front and rear speakers splitting the wattage obviously with each speaker getting ~50w. The only other draw back to this is I have no Fade control, but that doesn't bother me like the lack of SYNC prompts does.

I know my Kicker ZXSUM8 LOC does range combining so the lack of range in the front channel isn't an issue, but I'm unsure of where exactly I can tap the front speakers other than right at the speaker pigtails IN the doors. It really SUCKED running the speaker wires to the speaker/subs in the doors and I would dread opening up the door again along with the narrow rubber tube in between the body and the door to facilitate that. I have tried to find the same colored wires around the dash area or kick panel area, but with no success. I imagine they are loomed into one of the wire bundles around that area, but I don't even know if the wires are the same color as in the door. I'd really like to include the speaker taps up front, but so far I've found no data as to where I can do it outside of the door and I don't want to just start cutting into heat-shrank or taped up wire looms.

Last edited by 11GTdriver; 08-26-2012 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:39 PM
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As far as the wires to tap, I am afraid you are on your own for this one, a shop did all my installation for me and I am not sure where they picked the signal up for everything.

I believe they picked it up right at the amp, post amp for each channel.
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