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My slow progress. 2013 GT

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Old 07-14-2013, 10:01 AM   #1
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Default My slow progress. 2013 GT

This is my slow progress. I figured since I'm new to the forum I would post up my ongoing build. I'm at a bit of a standstill right now due to a torn meniscus. I have all my parts, just can't get out to work on it.

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Old 07-14-2013, 10:05 AM   #2
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Amps have been changed to a newer zapco 4 channel and a pioneer 4 channel. Idea of the build is stealth except for trunk.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:05 PM   #3
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Just ran three sets of wires into the driver door, applied some second skin damping, and some CCF while I plastidipped the wheels. Took about 3 hours for everything. The trick with the molex in the door boot is that the molex detaches from the boot and you are then free to run whatever wires you want into the door. I will come back to the door for the speaker install and to hook up the wires. They are zip tied up out of the way right now. Forgot the pictures do the CCF, but I don't think I'll be having any rattling.

You can see in my pics my super special wire running tool. I cut the ends off two 24" zip ties, tape them together, then tape the wires on. The secret really is to lube the wires/boot. I used some garage door lube and it slid right through.

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Old 07-15-2013, 12:01 AM   #4
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Looks like you're making some great progress there even with the torn meniscus! I tore mine a few years ago during rugby pre season training, didn't really bother me (after a month of trying to recover, where it did hurt) apart from trying to sprint, where the torn cartilage would flip in my knee joint and kind of lock it in place. Anyway, the NHS butcher just took that flap out, rather than the microcut surgery professionals get...

Thank you for those pictures of running through your cable, did you just run it through the boot and then find a way to fit the Molex back in? What did you put in the 8" spaces?
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:38 AM   #5
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the molex plug is still connected, i actually never unplugged the two sides. I just detached the plug to the piece that is attached to the door boot. I then just shoved the molex down inside the kickpanel area where i ran the speaker wires through.

the 8" holes will be filled with some Peerless 8" woofers to handle from about 1000 hz down to about 50 hz...that's the plan anyway. Those will be used in conjunction with the 3" and 1" from the Hertz three way set up.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:30 PM   #6
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Got motivated and did the passenger door tonight. Wire ran through the boot in about 20 minutes. I got it all damped, and the CCF put on. I still have to do the speakers. Those will probably be last after the amps are wired, installed and hooked up. That way I still have music. Here's my progress for tonight along with a test fit of the 8" in the door. They fit perfectly, just need to work on a grill. Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:40 AM   #7
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Well.. if you have problems with your 2013 GT then you should make it check. Visit to your nearest mechanic and try to get it check.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shikobasmith View Post
Well.. if you have problems with your 2013 GT then you should make it check. Visit to your nearest mechanic and try to get it check.
Not so sure any mechanic is going to help me with the awful factory system.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:11 PM   #9
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So, I got a little motivated tonight. I was going to do some work this weekend, but it was the first weekend for college football so no work got done. I've got some photos,

Got some minor things done. Removed the rear speakers, put some damping on the rear deck (butyl, CCF, and mlv). Also got some new speakers for the front. Will now have some ID mini horns on the front stage with the peerless 8". Also got some L brackets made to hold the new Zapco amp.

I've got some CCF on the bottom of the wood filler plates to help decouple them from the body. The L brackets will probably be mounted to the wood pieces to prevent any additional holes in the body. They are mounted into the factory speaker holes using the factory screws.

Next up is to mount the amps, run the wiring, then mount the horns.

I think to retain the factory Bluetooth without getting any echo I will be using the rear speakers as the input to the alpine H660 and fade the sound all the way to the rear. Then I will leave the front factory 5x7 hooked up to the radio. That way when I use the Bluetooth calling I'm still using the factory setup and the aftermarket system will automatically be muted.

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Old 09-27-2013, 11:44 AM   #10
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Why are you running free-air subs in the back? You have no tuning, and that is going to sound like poop without putting those in a proper box. Your trunk isn't a box lol.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:42 AM   #11
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Why are you running free-air subs in the back? You have no tuning, and that is going to sound like poop without putting those in a proper box. Your trunk isn't a box lol.
I have plenty of tuning capability with the alpine pxeh660. It is more than just a line output converter. I can move the crossover frequency on each channel independently as well as change the crossover slope. How much more do I need?

The QTS of these subs is high enough to effectively work in an infinite baffle installation. With the trunk sealed off from the cabin the back wave will be completely isolated from the front wave negating any possibility of cancellation. The subs will effectively just be seeing a large sealed enclosure. Since I have no bulky enclosure I am only losing about 1.5-1.75 cubic foot of space in my trunk.

Also with the 8" in the front doors playing down below 50 hz the subs really only need to be used for the notes between 10 and 50 hz. There will be a lot less roll off below 20 hz than in a traditional sealed and definitely ported enclosure. If i so desired I could run these subs up to about 250 hz without any real roll off as well.

Plenty of Sound Quality built cars utilize infinite baffle. I have used it before in my own car so I'm trying something different this time around. Not every installation has to be done exactly the same. I'm sure my car will sound just fine
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:02 AM   #12
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WOW! That's loud! You're in Florida and I heard it all the way up here in Maryland! ;-)
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:07 PM   #13
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WOW! That's loud! You're in Florida and I heard it all the way up here in Maryland! ;-)
Really the hope is for the quality rather than the loudness. I still have a lot of work to do before I can turn it on.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:04 AM   #14
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I have plenty of tuning capability with the alpine pxeh660. It is more than just a line output converter. I can move the crossover frequency on each channel independently as well as change the crossover slope. How much more do I need?

The QTS of these subs is high enough to effectively work in an infinite baffle installation. With the trunk sealed off from the cabin the back wave will be completely isolated from the front wave negating any possibility of cancellation. The subs will effectively just be seeing a large sealed enclosure. Since I have no bulky enclosure I am only losing about 1.5-1.75 cubic foot of space in my trunk.

Also with the 8" in the front doors playing down below 50 hz the subs really only need to be used for the notes between 10 and 50 hz. There will be a lot less roll off below 20 hz than in a traditional sealed and definitely ported enclosure. If i so desired I could run these subs up to about 250 hz without any real roll off as well.

Plenty of Sound Quality built cars utilize infinite baffle. I have used it before in my own car so I'm trying something different this time around. Not every installation has to be done exactly the same. I'm sure my car will sound just fine
Sounds like you know what you're doing, it just seems like your subs will bottom out on anything under 30-40hz. I've never seen free-air setups like that lol.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:49 AM   #15
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Sounds like you know what you're doing, it just seems like your subs will bottom out on anything under 30-40hz. I've never seen free-air setups like that lol.
I've done a bit if research on it. The subs will only be receiving about 200 watts total, as they would bottom out with much more than that, since there is no enclosure to support the suspension of the subwoofers. That is another good thing about an IB setup. It is extremely efficient. That means I didn't new as much power, I won't be putting as much of a strain on my charging system, and I really won't need to turn things up as loud. There are a lot of positives, but the work that goes into it will not be as easy as just throwing an enclosure into the trunk. It will require tuning and additional work to get it to sound right. I'm okay with that because it will be worth it in the end.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:14 PM   #16
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I've done a bit if research on it. The subs will only be receiving about 200 watts total, as they would bottom out with much more than that, since there is no enclosure to support the suspension of the subwoofers. That is another good thing about an IB setup. It is extremely efficient. That means I didn't new as much power, I won't be putting as much of a strain on my charging system, and I really won't need to turn things up as loud. There are a lot of positives, but the work that goes into it will not be as easy as just throwing an enclosure into the trunk. It will require tuning and additional work to get it to sound right. I'm okay with that because it will be worth it in the end.
Lol yeah. I use to run two 15" L7s on 2600w rms in a 10 cube net box ported tuned to 33hz with about 13sq in of port per cube. Got down pretty low and moved plenty of air, sold that and now got this 06 gt. Never really heard a good sounding system, but this one was the loudest I ever heard.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:39 PM   #17
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looks like its coming along nice man hope it turns out like you wanted
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:25 PM   #18
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Some work done last weekend. I went out to changed the oil and ended up working for 8 hours or so. I got the trunk completed (all wired up), wiring run through the cabin, interior put back together, and under hood wiring done. All that is left is to mount the PXE-H660, cut the RCA cable to length, solder the RCA heads on, mount and wire up the under dash horns, install the 8" in the doors, and tune everything out.













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Old 03-23-2014, 09:10 PM   #19
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So, I finally got around to doing a bit of work. I've been working on a five week battle with bronchitis. Today I mounted the passenger side horn. It was much easier than I thought it would be. It is mounted by three points. Two on the front attached to the dash under the glovebox, and one on the rear where the motor is. This is so solid it does not move when I try to wiggle it. I'm getting so close.

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Driver side is mounted. There was an opening where the OBD plug went. I used a small piece of plastic and some CCF to fill the hole. Now there is a pretty smooth transition to the dash from the mouth of the horn.

Working on the driver side mid now. The mid is in the door without much of a hassle. The difficult part is getting the factory trim ring to sit over the new mid. I think I have some ideas for it.
So, all speakers are installed. Got the 8" peerless in each door. Made my own grills with grill cloth. I separates the chrome trim from the main ring, then applied the grill cloth. I think it looks so much nicer without the factory waffle grill.

All that is left is to put the speaker wire on the subs and to install the processor under the front seat.

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Old 03-23-2014, 09:10 PM
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