mmarker

Door Panel Removal

First remove the mirror trim piece


They must have really thought the door was going to fall off. It took me looking at the service manual to figure out the hidden screw underneath the window switch. I recommend removing the door lock surround it makes installing the door panel easier. Once all the screws are removed the door lifts right off.


Next pop off the "sub" surround.


The door "sub" is held in by 8 screws and a bolt. The bolt eliminates the possibility of removing the sub without removing the whole panel.

mmarker

6"x8" Adapter

These adapters can be made any number of ways depending on what speakers you want to install. I installed a 6.5" and two tweeters. I will be moving one of the tweeters up to the interior mirror trim after I order the trim piece. I had to offset the 6.5" low because of the defroster tube that runs right along the speaker adapter.

First I cutout the general shape. I used a jigsaw and a sander to smooth out the shape. I laid out the shape by transferring the stock adapter onto the wood and then traced the speaker shape over the stock adapter shape. This allowed me to draw the target shape of the speaker adapter. It is slightly larger then the stock adapter. It has to be made as tight as possible because there is not much room in these door panels. I recommend drilling out the stock-aftermarket adapter mounting holes prior to cutting out the speaker hole because it will be really difficult later. Here is a link to show how to find the center of a circle http://www.ehow.com/how_4824107_center-of-circle.html Remember the driver and passenger sides are mirrored images of one another.

mmarker

Next I cutout the 6.5" hole with my router and circle adapter. Make sure you cutout the recess before the inner hole or you will have a tough time making them concentric circles.

mmarker

Next cutout the tweeter holes with a hole saw that is the same mounting diameter as the tweeter.

mmarker

I painted the adapters black so they wont be seen through the speaker grills

SHOguy

Wish you were near by so you could help me on my build!

mmarker

I might be moving to Charleston SC in the spring

mmarker

Running Wires Through The Door

This was the biggest PITA of the whole build. I shredded my knuckles running the wires through the driver side. In order to get the wires through the driver side door you must remove the lower Shaker amp that are located on the drivers side kick panels.

First pull the rubber conduit off the plastic plug


Next push the conduit into the door to keep it out of the way


Next pop the plastic out of the frame. There is a clip in the center that you need to push down with a screw driver.


Next separate the plastic "grommet" from the "molex" adapter



Next I drilled two holes in the recesses to run the speaker wires through


I taped a couple of zip ties together to fish the wires through it was more pliable then my fishing tape


Once the wires are pulled through snap the connector back in place as you slide it back into the frame. Then pull the rubber conduit back over the wire.

clucas

I guess you didn't look at my build log. I didn't remove the shaker amp, drill out the plug, or hurt my knuckles and it was done in less than 20 minutes for both sides.

Also, does the door panel block one if those tweeters on your plates? There's not much of an opening in the grill itself, or are you drilling out additional holes?

Box came out nicely, and your plates are well built. Keep up the good work.

SHOguy

I hope you do because I want to do a custom amp rack and maybe a sub enclosure in my SHO. Also looking to do a custom sub enclosure in my mothers car.