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Class D MONO Amp - Which subs should I get?

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Old 12-27-2013, 12:46 PM
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CJCuster89
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Default Class D MONO Amp - Which subs should I get?

Question for any of you audio techy's. I have a Pioneer Class D Mono Amp (Model Number: GM-D8601) I had to cheap 12" pioneer subs in it but they burned up after not much use. Single coil. Anyone have any ideas as to what kind of subs I should get for it that can handle the power of the amp? Mind you, the gain was almost all the way turned down for those cheap 12's I had. Just wondering if dual coils may be better to distribute the power?
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:32 PM
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Derf00
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Single vs dual voice coils has nothing to with quality. They are just a way to offer different configuration options when you are setting up your system.

And an expensive speaker can still sound like ****z/burn up if it's installed in the wrong type of enclosure or with the wrong configuration to run it.

Every amp has the ability to deliver more or less power depending on what type of resistance the output circuit sees. Here's yours:

Number of Channels Mono
Maximum Power Output 1,500 W
Continuous Power Output (1 Ω, ≤ 1% THD+N) 800 W x 1
Continuous Power Output (2 Ω, ≤ 1% THD+N) 500 W x 1
Continuous Power Output (4 Ω, ≤ 1% THD+N) 300 W x 1
Continuous Power Output Bridged (4 Ω) ―
Frequency Response 10 Hz to 240 Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion (4 Ω) < 0.5% (100 Hz)

You'll notice that THD (total harmonic distortion) is rated only at the 4 OHm level. That's because the standard for auto speakers is 4 ohms and they also perform at the optimal level at 4 ohm. (Home audio incidentally is 8 ohm)

Best thing to do figure out what type of enclosure and the volume of that enclosure you want to use, THEN figure out which sub has the best specs for the job. The specs you need to look at are called Thiele/Small parameters.

Big Sub in big enclosure does not automatically mean good or loud sound.
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:18 PM
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CJCuster89
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Yeah thats interesting. I mean I made my own box and enclosed my trunk in and everything myself. It could possibly be that I had the gain too high? I'm not sure. I ordered some pioneer champion series 12" 4 ohm subs. 1400W a piece. this is why my trunk looks like though.

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Old 03-28-2014, 07:07 PM
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ticopowell
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I would find subs that match the amp for best results.
You have a few options:
1) Get 2 single coil subs that run at 2 ohms, run them in series and make sure they are 150 Watt RMS each. net 4 ohms.
2) Get 2 single coil subs that run 4 ohms each, Run them parallel and again get 250 Watt RMS each. net 2 ohms
3) Get 2 Dual coil subs that run at 2 ohms each coil, run each sub in series with itself and the subs parallel to each other. get 250 Watt RMS each. Net 2 ohms.
4) Get 2 Dual coils subs that run 4 ohms each coil, run everything in parallel and you can have 2 400 watt RMS subs. net 1 ohm.

Your current 1400 Watt subs are possibly too much unless they were wired correctly and have the right RMS wattage. I assume that 1400 Watts is max power... That is really a gimick IMHO to sell subs... yes they can run 1400 watts, but possibly only once before they break.
Who installed them? you or a shop? just wondering...
On another note. even running a "perfect" setup with matching everything can damage a sub if not tuned right... I know, I blew out a $250 memphis 12" by running it wrong. It was a 500W RMS sub and I had a 500W RMS amp powering it. I think I had the gain too high so when I got a replacement I lowered the gain and did an overall better job tuning it and I never had a problem.

I know it is an older thread but I thought I might add my 2 cents.
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