Need advice optimal way to install aftermarket amp/sub to shaker 500!
#1
Need advice optimal way to install aftermarket amp/sub to shaker 500!
Hell everyone! I'm new to Mustang Forums, I just got a 2011 5.0 with the Shaker 500 system. After researching for what feels like weeks now I'm trying to figure out the absolute BEST way to install an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier. There are so many posts on forums all over the net that suggest certain ways of doing it, then other people chime in and say no this isn't the best way... and on and on and on.
Originally what I read was the easiest and best way to go about doing this was to get a PAC SNI35 LOC and tap into the connector on the back of the radio that has AUX + and AUX - for signal to convert into rca's. I ordered one, wired everything as suggested and my subwoofer makes no noise. The amp turns on, everything looks like it should work but nothing. I'm thinking that the wires I tapped into for signal probably aren't the optimal wires.
I've seen all over the internet people tapping into the rear speaker signals for their LOC and saying it sounds great, then other people say you shouldn't do that because the rear speakers lose bass frequencies at higher volumes. Others say an AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel LOC prevents this... I'm lost!
At this point I have all power, ground and remote wiring all ran. I also have:
- Custom sub enclosure
- 12" JL Audio 12w6v2 D4
- Jl Audio 500/1 amp
- PAC SNI35 LOC
Long story short, I need to know the BEST method to get the highest possible quality signal to my aftermarket amplifier, while keeping the factory head unit. I don't want to lose bass from my subwoofer at higher volumes! I want to be able to blast it and have nice crisp clear sound in my new Mustang! Help! Thanks
Originally what I read was the easiest and best way to go about doing this was to get a PAC SNI35 LOC and tap into the connector on the back of the radio that has AUX + and AUX - for signal to convert into rca's. I ordered one, wired everything as suggested and my subwoofer makes no noise. The amp turns on, everything looks like it should work but nothing. I'm thinking that the wires I tapped into for signal probably aren't the optimal wires.
I've seen all over the internet people tapping into the rear speaker signals for their LOC and saying it sounds great, then other people say you shouldn't do that because the rear speakers lose bass frequencies at higher volumes. Others say an AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel LOC prevents this... I'm lost!
At this point I have all power, ground and remote wiring all ran. I also have:
- Custom sub enclosure
- 12" JL Audio 12w6v2 D4
- Jl Audio 500/1 amp
- PAC SNI35 LOC
Long story short, I need to know the BEST method to get the highest possible quality signal to my aftermarket amplifier, while keeping the factory head unit. I don't want to lose bass from my subwoofer at higher volumes! I want to be able to blast it and have nice crisp clear sound in my new Mustang! Help! Thanks
#2
Here is how I wired mine: https://mustangforums.com/forum/audi...ker-500-a.html
I'm very happy with the result. If I had wanted a single larger sub, I would just run the output of my amp to the sub.
I'm very happy with the result. If I had wanted a single larger sub, I would just run the output of my amp to the sub.
#3
IMHO you can't get "the best possible sound" from a stock head unit. If you want the best possible sound you will have to go aftermarket. Now that I have said that I think way to get the best sub sound for your current setup is to get the sub input from the wires coming out of the back of the radio going to the front speakers. I don't know how the rear speakers are tuned from the factory, but like you I have heard that they aren't optimal for wiring a sub. I did use them on my last car for a short period of time to hook up an amp for all 4 speakers before I got my system fully installed, and I didn't notice anything wrong with the way they sounded so it might be an option.
I hope that helps.
I hope that helps.
#4
Originally what I read was the easiest and best way to go about doing this was to get a PAC SNI35 LOC and tap into the connector on the back of the radio that has AUX + and AUX - for signal to convert into rca's. I ordered one, wired everything as suggested and my subwoofer makes no noise. The amp turns on, everything looks like it should work but nothing. I'm thinking that the wires I tapped into for signal probably aren't the optimal wires.
I've seen all over the internet people tapping into the rear speaker signals for their LOC and saying it sounds great, then other people say you shouldn't do that because the rear speakers lose bass frequencies at higher volumes. Others say an AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel LOC prevents this... I'm lost!
Long story short, I need to know the BEST method to get the highest possible quality signal to my aftermarket amplifier, while keeping the factory head unit.
What happens is people swap in an aftermarket HU and notice how different it sounds, which is because the aftermarket HU has no EQ. Then they assume it must be "better" because it's aftermarket; any I've listened to are screechy, annoyingly fatiguing messes.
I don't know how the rear speakers are tuned from the factory, but like you I have heard that they aren't optimal for wiring a sub.
This stuff isn't magic, folks.
#5
this is BS. There's no difference in absolute quality between a factory and an aftermarket HU; both OE and aftermarket build them from the same off-the-shelf parts. Yes, I've tested and cracked open enough of them to say this with certainty.
What happens is people swap in an aftermarket HU and notice how different it sounds, which is because the aftermarket HU has no EQ. Then they assume it must be "better" because it's aftermarket; any I've listened to are screechy, annoyingly fatiguing messes.
This stuff isn't magic, folks.
What happens is people swap in an aftermarket HU and notice how different it sounds, which is because the aftermarket HU has no EQ. Then they assume it must be "better" because it's aftermarket; any I've listened to are screechy, annoyingly fatiguing messes.
This stuff isn't magic, folks.
I don't know what radios you are listening too that sound screechy and annoyingly fatiguing, but if installed right, and tuned correctly(some have an auto-tuning capability) they can sound a lot better, with or without aftermarket speakers. I have seen improvements with both just speakers installed, and on the other hand I have seen improvements with just a HU installed.
Yeah it isn't rocket science, but it can be confusing to newcomers to car audio.
#6
I'm not saying I am an expert, nor have I torn them apart, so all of the following is IMHO, and it is all from hands on experience with setting up HU's in mustangs. I know most of the electronics are the same, but you do have EQ control on aftermarket from my experience.
all of my HU's have had a multi-freq EQ control. Also I have yet to see a stock EQ control that has more than bass, mid, and treble controls.
If you want really high control you can get a dedicated eq controller.
I don't know what radios you are listening too that sound screechy and annoyingly fatiguing, but if installed right, and tuned correctly(some have an auto-tuning capability) they can sound a lot better, with or without aftermarket speakers.
#7
Quote:
Originally Posted by ticopowell View Post
IMHO you can't get "the best possible sound" from a stock head unit. If you want the best possible sound you will have to go aftermarket.
Originally Posted by ticopowell View Post
IMHO you can't get "the best possible sound" from a stock head unit. If you want the best possible sound you will have to go aftermarket.
this is BS. There's no difference in absolute quality between a factory and an aftermarket HU; both OE and aftermarket build them from the same off-the-shelf parts. Yes, I've tested and cracked open enough of them to say this with certainty.
"I never try to dissuade a man from trying an experiment. If he does not find what he wants he may find something else."
James Maxwell
Last edited by Chromeshadow; 08-20-2014 at 08:59 AM.
#8
Most of the distortion in a head or amp comes from the output stages. Tapping into the speaker level signals to go into an amp is a workaround, you are amplifying all of the distortion from the head output stages, or worse-the external factory amp.
#9
Most amps take their THD readings at 1Khz, like you show, at a low level, because the numbers look very good at that point. Sometimes a resistive load is used not a speaker which helps the data look better. I'd like to see the same data at 10KHz and 35 Hz at 70% of full volume. I'd like to see the data when the amp is run into a speaker level to line level convertor. The impedance mismatch will often hurt the sound as well.
Btw, most 8 bit scopes are about 3dB or 15% accuracy, and many interpolate the data...by taking 2 or 3 data points and turn it into a sign wave. I can do the same measurement to show a PWM signal look as good as your data.
There are other distortion factors such as delays. If all amps are driven from the same source, they should be in sync across their entire freq bandwidth. If an extra amp is added-it adds a slight delay which some people can hear, especially at higher frequencies. That's just a few reasons why many aftermarket systems run everything from the line level outputs. I'm not sure why Ford elected to make their our standard for the signal levels and not use Line outputs, it would make it much easier to add amps and upgrade speakers.
Btw, most 8 bit scopes are about 3dB or 15% accuracy, and many interpolate the data...by taking 2 or 3 data points and turn it into a sign wave. I can do the same measurement to show a PWM signal look as good as your data.
There are other distortion factors such as delays. If all amps are driven from the same source, they should be in sync across their entire freq bandwidth. If an extra amp is added-it adds a slight delay which some people can hear, especially at higher frequencies. That's just a few reasons why many aftermarket systems run everything from the line level outputs. I'm not sure why Ford elected to make their our standard for the signal levels and not use Line outputs, it would make it much easier to add amps and upgrade speakers.
#10
Most amps take their THD readings at 1Khz, like you show, at a low level, because the numbers look very good at that point. Sometimes a resistive load is used not a speaker which helps the data look better.
I'd like to see the same data at 10KHz and 35 Hz at 70% of full volume.
and worrying about distortion at 10 kHz is silly; the 2nd harmonic produced by any distortion there would be at 20 kHz and if you're an adult the chances of you being able to hear anything at 20 kHz is slim.
Btw, most 8 bit scopes are about 3dB or 15% accuracy, and many interpolate the data...by taking 2 or 3 data points and turn it into a sign wave. I can do the same measurement to show a PWM signal look as good as your data.
I'm not sure why Ford elected to make their our standard for the signal levels and not use Line outputs, it would make it much easier to add amps and upgrade speakers.
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