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Improving on 2014 Shaker Speakers

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Old 09-30-2014, 01:56 PM
  #11  
Chromeshadow
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The 8-channel amp runs internally on battery voltage (no boost power supply) so it can output about 8.5 volts RMS clean per channel, so roughly 35 watts x 8 at 2.0 ohms. 'bout 280 watts RMS total system power.
This is totally impossible! You cannot get 8.5 V RMS from 12VDC ( or 14.8 VDC). The max Peak to Peak voltage at the speakers with no losses would be 14.8 V AC, RMS = PP /2 *.67=4.958. (This crap is the reason I put JZ on Ignore, he's going right back there now) He is just pretending to be an engineer with lots of crap in his calculations.
Btw, the Samsung power is calculated the same way JZ calculated his power, Peak to Peak values.
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:24 PM
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OlPal
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Just when I thought I was a little confused *****
I find out that I'm really badly confused !! "ouch"

By the way Thanks for all the input guys, I just have to try & digest it !!
I'm finding that some of my "Rules of Thumb" are off Kilter !!
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:28 PM
  #13  
jz78817
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Originally Posted by Chromeshadow
This is totally impossible! You cannot get 8.5 V RMS from 12VDC ( or 14.8 VDC). The max Peak to Peak voltage at the speakers with no losses would be 14.8 V AC, RMS = PP /2 *.67=4.958.
Your calculations are correct for a single-ended amplifier.

Problem is, the 8-channel amp uses two 4-channel BTL (bridge-tied-load) balanced output power amp ICs. Inside each chip are 8 amplifier output blocks set up in a bridged configuration, so you get double the voltage swing for the same DC supply voltage. This is the same as pretty much every OE and aftermarket head unit in existence. The STMicro TDA7563 is a fairly popular power amp IC used in the industry:

http://www.st.com/st-web-ui/static/a...CD00135785.pdf

take a look at the "output power vs. supply voltage" graphs and you'll see what I'm talking about. specifically figure 7 on pg. 11, where it shows the amp chip as capable of 32 watts x4 at 1% THD with a 14 volt supply.

Btw, the Samsung power is calculated the same way JZ calculated his power, Peak to Peak values.
"peak to peak" power is a meaningless marketing number. it has no basis in reality.

Last edited by jz78817; 09-30-2014 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:02 PM
  #14  
OlPal
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So Okayyyyyyy !!
You guys have dazzled me, { & I thank you for it } if not yourselves !!
I really appreciate all help & sharing of knowledge !

So it looks like i'm going with ; Pioneer TSD6802R 6 * 8 2 way speakers
and I need these Speaker adaptors for the 2014 Shaker Door Speakers;

taken from 2006 to 2012 models ;

4R3Z18B947AA skr. adaptor Right $11.14


4R3Z18B947BA left door $11.14

plus pkg. of Metra 72-5600 connectors


Does this sound GOOD to you guys ????
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:11 PM
  #15  
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Looks like a pretty good plan to me. Let us know how it sounds and if you think you'll upgrade the sub woofers later.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:04 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by OlPal
So Okayyyyyyy !!
You guys have dazzled me, { & I thank you for it } if not yourselves !!
I really appreciate all help & sharing of knowledge !

So it looks like i'm going with ; Pioneer TSD6802R 6 * 8 2 way speakers
and I need these Speaker adaptors for the 2014 Shaker Door Speakers;

taken from 2006 to 2012 models ;

4R3Z18B947AA skr. adaptor Right $11.14


4R3Z18B947BA left door $11.14

plus pkg. of Metra 72-5600 connectors


Does this sound GOOD to you guys ????
I dunno, I can't hear it from here.

you've got what you need to install what you want. let us know how you like it when you're done.
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Old 11-07-2014, 11:02 PM
  #17  
OlPal
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Default The Finished Product Sounds Great

So like I said, went with ; the Pioneer TSD6802R 6 * 8 2 way speakers.

Plus I got these Speaker adaptors for the 2014 Shaker Door Speakers;
taken from 2006 to 2012 models ;

4R3Z18B947AA Right door adaptor mount $14

4R3Z18B947BA left door $14

plus pkg. of Metra 72-5600 connectors [got mine from Amazon & they have wires A$$ backwards] so I had to pull the wires & change position of wiring polarity ! What a PITA !!!

Needed a Torx 30 to remove 2 bolts in each door, so I bought a simple $10 set @ WallyWoorld that had all the tools I'd need except for needle nose pliers. Kit has Patcheting Screwdriver handle as well as a T-Handle..

I used Torx 30
1/4 socket for the 3 speaker plate screws
9/32 socket for the 7 perimeter/center hidden screws
Needle Nose Pliers
I used a Machinists thin 6" Scale to remove plastic covers.
[I bought a 4 piece interior trim tool kit, they were too thick though, to use easily]

Special Thanks to;
JZ7887 & ChromeShadow
for their help & guidance!
I can't remember where I got the adapter plate #'s from but ,, Thanks
Also Thanks to the few guys who made videos of speaker installs !!


PS; Another question, have you guys actually seen the door speakers 2013-2014 Shaker out of the car. They look & feel like POS to me..
As speaker magnet, couldn't get a screw to stick anywhere on them & the whole assembly speakers, plate, grill weigh next to nothing.
Whereas with Pioneers, you could commit murder with 1, they are very stout & well made..
Just wondering ????
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:22 AM
  #18  
jz78817
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Originally Posted by OlPal
PS; Another question, have you guys actually seen the door speakers 2013-2014 Shaker out of the car. They look & feel like POS to me..
As speaker magnet, couldn't get a screw to stick anywhere on them & the whole assembly speakers, plate, grill weigh next to nothing.
Whereas with Pioneers, you could commit murder with 1, they are very stout & well made..
Just wondering ????
the factory speakers have rare-earth (neodymium-iron-boron) magnets, which are about twenty times more powerful than the typical strontium ferrite magnets. Which means they only need to be 1/20th the size to do the same job. What you see as the "magnet" is actually a steel cap which completes the magnetic circuit. The actual magnet is a disc which sits inside the pole piece.

how much a speaker weighs is a poor way to gauge its quality.
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Old 11-08-2014, 02:14 PM
  #19  
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Glad to hear you are happy with your mods! I like the looks, the feel and the sound of the Pioneers, and they are really inexpensive. My 2012 door speakers looked like they used paper cones and we single axial speakers, the magnet was really tiny. The Pioneers I used are Triaxial and just sound a lot better to me.
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Old 11-09-2014, 01:46 AM
  #20  
OlPal
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Originally Posted by jz78817
the factory speakers have rare-earth (neodymium-iron-boron) magnets, which are about twenty times more powerful than the typical strontium ferrite magnets. Which means they only need to be 1/20th the size to do the same job. What you see as the "magnet" is actually a steel cap which completes the magnetic circuit. The actual magnet is a disc which sits inside the pole piece.

how much a speaker weighs is a poor way to gauge its quality.

WoW JZ, another written in stone old fart concept dies !!
That used to be a sure guideline to chose speakers by ..
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