Detailing Talk
#82
Proper technique and use of the equipment is just as important as the products you use
#83
I guess I've got a lot to learn. Since I bought this car, I've been doing a lot more reading and researching different products, wash techniques, etc in an effort to keep the swirls, scratches, etc to a minimum. While I have noticed an improvement over previous cars I've owned and "detailed" in the past, I can look at my paint and see that I've got room for improvement. Not to mention needing to learn what to use/do to get that deep wet-looking shine.
#84
The easiest way for me to start explaining would be like this...
It's sort of like the older guy walking into a body shop and asking for a lacquer paint for his rat rod, because that's all he's known.
I'm more than happy to answer any questions, so post away!
I'll post some other things relating to products and how they work over the next couple of days.
It's sort of like the older guy walking into a body shop and asking for a lacquer paint for his rat rod, because that's all he's known.
I'm more than happy to answer any questions, so post away!
I'll post some other things relating to products and how they work over the next couple of days.
#85
I do have a question. What method and products do you use when doing regular washing and drying. I'm trying out some CG car wash and QD, but here's my usual routine.
1.) 2 bucket wash method with grit guards. Two (cheap Walmart) microfiber wash mitts; one for the top 3/4 of the car and the other for the bottom 1/4. I also use a separate sponge/microfiber for the wheels and wheel wells. I always try to wash in the shade and not let any soap dry before rinsing.
2.) rinse with a very light flow of water out of the end of the hose to get the water to sheet off the car and leave me with less water to dry off
3.) when drying, I first use an air hose and blow out all the water I can from the usual spots that trap water (body seams, grille, trunk area, etc). When I start drying, I use either some QD or waterless wash & wax to spray the area before I start drying with my microfibers (again, Walmart-bought but the "good" ones they sell). Again, starting at the top and working down. I leave the door jambs and the gap between the body and the side skirts for last.
Do you see anything I should change or any additional steps or anything you'd recommend?
1.) 2 bucket wash method with grit guards. Two (cheap Walmart) microfiber wash mitts; one for the top 3/4 of the car and the other for the bottom 1/4. I also use a separate sponge/microfiber for the wheels and wheel wells. I always try to wash in the shade and not let any soap dry before rinsing.
2.) rinse with a very light flow of water out of the end of the hose to get the water to sheet off the car and leave me with less water to dry off
3.) when drying, I first use an air hose and blow out all the water I can from the usual spots that trap water (body seams, grille, trunk area, etc). When I start drying, I use either some QD or waterless wash & wax to spray the area before I start drying with my microfibers (again, Walmart-bought but the "good" ones they sell). Again, starting at the top and working down. I leave the door jambs and the gap between the body and the side skirts for last.
Do you see anything I should change or any additional steps or anything you'd recommend?
#87
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
I use the leaf blower to dry my cars. Neighbors think I'm crazy but anything you can do to lessen the amount of time you spend rubbing on the surface is a plus.
#88
I use the really fluffy dark gray ones Walmart sells. They dry pretty decent but leave quite a bit of fuzz or lint or whatever. I read somewhere before that chamois can scratch the paint so I never use them. Not sure if that's 100% true.
#89
I do have a question. What method and products do you use when doing regular washing and drying. I'm trying out some CG car wash and QD, but here's my usual routine.
1.) 2 bucket wash method with grit guards. Two (cheap Walmart) microfiber wash mitts; one for the top 3/4 of the car and the other for the bottom 1/4. I also use a separate sponge/microfiber for the wheels and wheel wells. I always try to wash in the shade and not let any soap dry before rinsing.
1.) 2 bucket wash method with grit guards. Two (cheap Walmart) microfiber wash mitts; one for the top 3/4 of the car and the other for the bottom 1/4. I also use a separate sponge/microfiber for the wheels and wheel wells. I always try to wash in the shade and not let any soap dry before rinsing.
*Top to bottom method is the best, since we live on a planet that has gravity...lol. Do your roof/hood/trunk (3 tops), then work down the sides. Nothing wrong with a little overkill using different mitts for top/sides, but it's not necessary. In actuality, the "3 tops" of your car take more beating than the sides due to wind velocity and impact path. Go look at a wind tunnel test for any car, watch how the smoke rolls over the car. That is exactly the way your car is attacked by road debris, dirt, etc while driving. The sides of the car would naturally take more abuse in northern states where they would be subject to pelting from road salts, brines, etc. The biggest thing you want to control while washing your car is transferring dirt from one spot to another, from dirty bucket to clean bucket and from dirty mitt to clean surface.
2.) rinse with a very light flow of water out of the end of the hose to get the water to sheet off the car and leave me with less water to dry off
3.) when drying, I first use an air hose and blow out all the water I can from the usual spots that trap water (body seams, grille, trunk area, etc). When I start drying, I use either some QD or waterless wash & wax to spray the area before I start drying with my microfibers (again, Walmart-bought but the "good" ones they sell). Again, starting at the top and working down. I leave the door jambs and the gap between the body and the side skirts for last.
*Why would you be using a waterless wash-n-wax or QD while drying the car? You just washed it? Remove the water first (yes, you'll have some streaks) then use the QD to remove any left over streaks or missed spots.
*Don't use those crappy Wal-Mart branded (or bottom shelf) towels...the thread count on them isn't as good as most of the others on the market. The are mostly "all-purpose" 70/30 blend MF towels. Order towels online...you'll notice a BIG difference! I'm splitting hairs here, but I don't like MF towels with tags and/or overlock stitching (most common). The edge of the towels (stitched part) is much rougher than the rest of the towel and tags...well if you don't remove them, then you're just asking for one more thing to mirco-scratch the car. Invest in some silk-edged or edgeless towels for the QD step.
*If you're going to use a drying towel, personal preference here is waffle weave. They are just as absorbent as chamois, but have less contact-to-surface area than a chamois, which as Jeff pointed out is the key...less touch=less problems
*you are wise to leave the door jambs and side skirts/rocker panels for last. Since these areas need special attention. Use a different cloth for these areas. Rocker panels take the most abuse from debris than any other painted surface. Don't want to be pulling all that missed road grime and dirt onto a clean surface. Door jambs just like to collect dust, but you must also be careful of grease and lubricants used in the locks and hinges. Don't want that transferring onto your clean paint and causing problems. A good idea here is to have separate towels for these areas that are a different color or put a hole in them or something, so you never use them anywhere else.
Do you see anything I should change or any additional steps or anything you'd recommend?
*you are missing a VERY big step and a VERY needed tool! Once you have everything done, wash, wax, trim, windows, etc. go over your car one more time with a super plush microfiber (finishing towel I call it). Use this towel ONLY for this step and nothing else. This will help buff out and/or even out any missed spots, overspray from trim cleaning, window streaks, etc.
On a personal note...my steps are:
1) wheels/rims/fender wells first. They are always nasty dirty, so i want to get these clean and out of the way and that nasty water away from the car.
2) rinse/wash/rinse-recheck for missed spots, wash hot spots/rinse
3) dry
4) QD (or wax, etc), trim, windows
5) dress wheels/rims
6) finish towel
*EDIT*
HEH! Forgot to answer one of your other questions.
Using Meguiars Gold car wash, Poor Boy's spray-n-gloss for QD and bold-n-bright for tires/trim
Last edited by steel pony; 12-17-2014 at 09:07 AM.
#90
1) they "can" scratch because most times when you see them, the owner has been using it for years and has never bothered to clean it...so yeah, there's TONS of trapped dirt in it. I was guilty of this many years ago, but this was when chamois first came out and were the only "super-absorbent" towel on the market.
2) Chamois are considered a "flat-surface" drying towel. They may be super-absorbent, but they do not allow water to move while drying. This causes friction between the paint surface and the chamois. This can result (on a micro level), removal of applied waxes and micro-scratching.
Look at the way a waffle weave towel is designed. As you are drying, the pattern in the towel allows the water to push or move left/right/forwards/backwards into the pockets. This results in a little quicker drying, but mostly relieves surface friction and lessens micro-scratching or lifting of applied waxes, etc.
Nothing can prevent scratching as a result of a "dirt drying towel", so make sure you follow the mfgs' recommendations for cleaning them