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Opening a can of worms - rattle cans and paint guns

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Old 01-10-2009, 08:21 AM
  #1  
HGC
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Default Opening a can of worms - rattle cans and paint guns

Long post - controversial subject.

Slow morning so I thought I would open a can of worms to get folks riled up (my God...I'm becoming Waffles).

Here we go - rattle cans and paint guns.

First, I will concede that given the equipment, space and skill it is best to use a good paint set up and epoxy primer and the whole bit. And certainly if you are really restoring a car.
However. my recent project was to repair, not restore. I have no painting skills, no air compressor, no space, no paint guns. As I repaired the lower fenders I used Rustoleum spray can car primer to cover the repairs. I also used it when sanding the original paint on the rest of the car to cover places the paint had worn through, such as the edges of the fenders. I sent the car to paint that way and offered to pay them should they wish to remove that primer and replace it. The checked it - sanded off a few places...scraped a few places and told me the primer was generally fine. Most of it was left on and the car covered with high build, blocked, sealed and painted.
Looking at the information about primers from the manufacturers I continually see the use of epoxy primers touted as the "ultimate in corrosion protection" which I believe is probably true. However, just because I did not use the ultimate I don't believe I will have any problems.
I see nothing wrong with using spray cans for some work. I used spray primer, spray cans of Rustoleum Satin Black and spray cans of Dupli-Color rubberized undercoating lots of places on the inside of the fenders, the rails, etc.

We don't all have big shops and big equipment.

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Old 01-10-2009, 09:16 AM
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fakesnakes
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The two biggest issues are corrosion protection and tooth (adhesion). In the long run, catalyzed epoxy primer will always win, but that does not mean you will have a problem. You will protect your car from the elements and it seems you got reasonable adhesion, so i wouldn't loose sleep. The benefits of epoxy primer include both metal etching for better adhesion and catalytic hardening making it tougher. To your point, it is always the best option, but not the only option.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:29 AM
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mortman
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When I re did my grandfather 69 Chevy I rattle canned the whole truck in gray primer. Put the truck on a boat to Germany and when I got to port to get the truck the whole thing had a BOAT load or surface rust all over it. Sanded the rust and recoated then painted in BMW red. Came out real nice but the rustolium and German paint was not compatible so it fisheyed a bit. Nothing wrong with a short cut but I would not do this to my baby especially with the power of the internet nowadays.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:42 AM
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Waffles
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Originally Posted by honeygoldcoupe
Long post - controversial subject.

Slow morning so I thought I would open a can of worms to get folks riled up (my God...I'm becoming Waffles).
Thank your lucky stars, Buck-o.
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:43 AM
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Carlos Pineiro
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HGC, the biggest prob with rattle cans is really the nozzel itself, not the paint. There used to be a better aftermarket nozzel sold to replace the little plastic one that provides a finer, vertically flat spray. Even if you color sand the repair area, the finer nozzel should help (search around the web). Cheaper than a paint gun for just touch-ups. Clear should hide any peel.

Also, is Honey-Gold a metallic? if so, vertical areas (the sides of the car) should be painted super slowly or the metal will literally fall and dry funky if too much is put on too quickly.

CP
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:10 AM
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HGC
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Originally Posted by Carlos Pineiro
HGC, the biggest prob with rattle cans is really the nozzel itself, not the paint. There used to be a better aftermarket nozzel sold to replace the little plastic one that provides a finer, vertically flat spray. Even if you color sand the repair area, the finer nozzel should help (search around the web). Cheaper than a paint gun for just touch-ups. Clear should hide any peel.

Also, is Honey-Gold a metallic? if so, vertical areas (the sides of the car) should be painted super slowly or the metal will literally fall and dry funky if too much is put on too quickly.

CP
Actually I was only really talking primer and blacks and undercoating. The Honey Gold is metallic and was shot by pros with professional equipment. I know what you mean about the nozzle though. The Ivy Gold interior spray I used on my doors came out vertically. Kind of suprised me at first. I did not realize until recently the difference the nozzle makes.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:10 AM
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Tony R
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The paint store that I buy from can mix what you want and put paints and primers in a rattle can. So you are not limited to rustoleum or other shelf products. Like Carlos said the nozzles suck so I dont go that rout.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mortman
When I re did my grandfather 69 Chevy I rattle canned the whole truck in gray primer. Put the truck on a boat to Germany and when I got to port to get the truck the whole thing had a BOAT load or surface rust all over it. Sanded the rust and recoated then painted in BMW red. Came out real nice but the rustolium and German paint was not compatible so it fisheyed a bit. Nothing wrong with a short cut but I would not do this to my baby especially with the power of the internet nowadays.
Bare primer won't protect against rust will it? Even "professional" primer? Although I will say the environment you had to deal with (a salt water ocean) probably was going to win in the short term.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Waffles
Thank your lucky stars, Buck-o.
Sigh...I can only dream of the day I approach your greatness. You are my hero. But where do you stand on rattle cans.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:18 AM
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salt water is a killer no matter what you have on the surface. I was an LAV crewman in the Marines and I spent a fair amount of time on ship and no matter what kind of prep work we did the vehicles would still rust. No matter how much lube we had on our weapons they would rust.
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